Muffler delete + Magnaflow resonated x pipe install

[thahemp]

Ok, so as it turns out, the people at magnaflow try to make our lives a little bit easier. I was test-fitting parts today, and the x pipe has 2.5" ID connections, which will fit nicely with the 2.5" OD existing piping. 2/3rds of my connections just got easier than i was prepared for. Win. That even gives me some slop for cutting the pipes since they'll happily recess into the x pipe fittings.

Since that is out of the way. I'll likely just butt weld the pipes and tips in. It'll make it really easy to get the length right. I'll get a picture up of the actual parts i have to work with tomorrow.

[Birm]

Originally Posted by caverman

I did this back when I first got my car....I litterally I drove it straight from the dealer lot to the muffler shop.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64964

Tips...Use a sawsall to make the cuts, get rid of the rear cat, make sure your tips are where you want them before welding them on or make it so they can be adjustable.

Caverman helped me a lot when I was doing it figured it would assist you as well

Originally Posted by thahemp

Birm pointed me to your thread when I was considering buying these exhaust parts. That was a good read for me. We have a sawsall that I can use, but I don't think the guy that torched yours was using a plasma cutter. That looks like an oxy/acetylene torch. The edges look like they were cut with an oxy/acetylene torch too

I would have to agree that using a sawsall against a clamp or something would guarantee a straight cut at least. It's probably not as important if I end up flaring the tubing and lap welding though.

Thanks for the tips.. I think I will get rid of the rear cat. I re-read your thread because I was trying to figure out whether or not that will throw a code. Good to know they're not monitored. Also, all of the hangers are already welded to the pipes, so I don't think tip alignment will be a big issue for me... thanks for that Birm

very welcome bro, can't wait to see the finished product. Also, told you that x was awesome, its literally perfect fit

[Ieatfordsforlunch]

Originally Posted by thahemp

I spent a long time yesterday looking for cheapo 409 and 304 tubing online that i could hack to pieces and practice welding together. There are several shops close by that i could hit up for scrap pipe. That's a really good idea. 304 tubing is expensive!

Thanks for the helpful hint. I've read in several places that you can get a nice, low-profile weld by just doing deep tacks close together. I'd be a little worried about leaks without doing a continuous weld around the pipe though.

That's why you gotta practice lol. The tacks will overlap and give the look of a continuous bead and if will also be gap less if done correctly. Take your time find the proper heat setting for the pipe your using and get busy. Once you feel confident in your wields move on to the car and get that exhaust done. Remember if you practice with a weaker steel then try stainless it's not going to weld the same same thing with different thicknesses. You may need to adjust after the first few tacks. Too cold of a weld and they will break too hot and you'll blow out the metal. Same thing with wire speed to much wire will cause popping too little will cause feeder jams and dirty wields. One more thing make sure all the tubing is clean of contaminants and burrs from cutting. Nothing messes up a good weld like oils, water, and rust. If you run into excess splatter you can get a spray or gel that you spray into your nozzle to stop that. Umm anything else just pm me, I'm sure I'll end up thinking of more tips if you need em.

[Ieatfordsforlunch]

Before I forget always push the wire into the weld never away. Meaning if you are starting a weld going clockwise your gun will be pointing into the weld from the 3 o'clock direction. If that makes cense to you lol.

[thahemp]

Originally Posted by Ieatfordsforlunch

That's why you gotta practice lol. The tacks will overlap and give the look of a continuous bead and if will also be gap less if done correctly. Take your time find the proper heat setting for the pipe your using and get busy. Once you feel confident in your wields move on to the car and get that exhaust done. Remember if you practice with a weaker steel then try stainless it's not going to weld the same same thing with different thicknesses. You may need to adjust after the first few tacks. Too cold of a weld and they will break too hot and you'll blow out the metal. Same thing with wire speed to much wire will cause popping too little will cause feeder jams and dirty wields. One more thing make sure all the tubing is clean of contaminants and burrs from cutting. Nothing messes up a good weld like oils, water, and rust. If you run into excess splatter you can get a spray or gel that you spray into your nozzle to stop that. Umm anything else just pm me, I'm sure I'll end up thinking of more tips if you need em.

Originally Posted by Ieatfordsforlunch

Before I forget always push the wire into the weld never away. Meaning if you are starting a weld going clockwise your gun will be pointing into the weld from the 3 o'clock direction. If that makes cense to you lol.

This is exactly why I started this thread. I had always read that you should push your puddle, but I didn't realize that meant angling your wire into it as well. That is gonna be a really helpful hint!

I'm pretty cautious about jumping right to the stock metal to 304 welding. I would guess that the pipe gauge is the same, but in reality, I really don't know that right now. I am definitely going to order some 304 and 409 tubing to hack up if I can't find any at a local shop. I already ordered the 309L filler.

BTW. I've decided to give up on the plasma cutter for chopping the pipes. Even though it's a cool new toy, I think I'll take the advice of everyone so far, and cut it with a sawsall. Kinda stupid to ask for advice, then not take it

[Ieatfordsforlunch]

Yeah I was going to say the plasma is a great machine but it wouldn't be the best for pipe you will have thebest cut from a saw. But if you get into doing diff things with metal then the plasma will be perfect. When do you plan on doing this job? Because I'll be driving tomy new base in Kentucky at the end of June if you need any help I don't mind taking a weekend and going that way.

[thahemp]

Originally Posted by Ieatfordsforlunch

Yeah I was going to say the plasma is a great machine but it wouldn't be the best for pipe you will have thebest cut from a saw. But if you get into doing diff things with metal then the plasma will be perfect. When do you plan on doing this job? Because I'll be driving tomy new base in Kentucky at the end of June if you need any help I don't mind taking a weekend and going that way.

That is incredibly generous of you. I HOPE i'm done by then, but you never know! Learning curves can be pretty unpredictable!

[Ieatfordsforlunch]

No problem bro plus it gives me an excuse to drive the car lol

[thahemp]

I did some mockup today. And took a couple pics.

After jacking everything up (I skipped the front end for now), I've decided that the more I can get accomplished with the catback off of the car... the better.

How does this sound for a course of action?

1) Remove full stock catback
2) Mock in replacement parts and make my cuts
3) Re-install catback with new parts (remember the OEM piping will slide into the Magnaflow x pipe about an inch or more on both sides)
4) Align everything. Put the pipes in the hangers. Tighten everything down.
5) Tack weld the muffler delete piping first.
6) Make any last minute adjustments by using up the slop in the overlapping x pipe.
7) Tack all 4 joints on the x pipe
8) Pull the whole catback out again and finish the welding.
9) Install and enjoy.

I would do the cuts under the car, but I don't like the space I have to work with under there. I think I'd rather pull the catback twice than fight the sawsall with 18" under a car to work with.

[Birm]

Originally Posted by thahemp

I did some mockup today. And took a couple pics.

After jacking everything up (I skipped the front end for now), I've decided that the more I can get accomplished with the catback off of the car... the better.

How does this sound for a course of action?

1) Remove full stock catback
2) Mock in replacement parts and make my cuts
3) Re-install catback with new parts (remember the OEM piping will slide into the Magnaflow x pipe about an inch or more on both sides)
4) Align everything. Put the pipes in the hangers. Tighten everything down.
5) Tack weld the muffler delete piping first.
6) Make any last minute adjustments by using up the slop in the overlapping x pipe.
7) Tack all 4 joints on the x pipe
8) Pull the whole catback out again and finish the welding.
9) Install and enjoy.

I would do the cuts under the car, but I don't like the space I have to work with under there. I think I'd rather pull the catback twice than fight the sawsall with 18" under a car to work with.

Attachment 373407

Attachment 373408

Bro I'm enjoying this thread

My opinion, with proper stands I think it would be 10000xs easier off the car then on. I think you got it figured out, can't wait

[thahemp]

Thanks for the vote of confidence!

I'm starting to feel pretty sure of myself here. I don't care if it takes all day pulling the catback repeatedly and putting it back on. I'm 99.9% concerned about getting it right the first time. It looks super easy to pull the catback and put it back on, so it appears to be the path of least resistance.

We will all find out!

[Ieatfordsforlunch]

Good to see the install going well

[thahemp]

Alrighty... great success today!

First off... the welder is in, assembled, and appears to work. It feeds wire anyways. I don't have a bottle or the appropriate apparel just yet, so I opted to just let it be for tonight.

I racked my brain all day trying to figure out the best way to wire myself up some convenient 220 (240 actually). My house is the worst I've ever seen for running wire. While out back pondering the issue over an after-work cold one, I remembered we've always had a weird sub-panel out there that I've never bothered to inspect. I busted out the multimeter and flipped the breaker on, and low and behold... 240!

40A breaker on the sub-panel with about an 8'/8 gauge cabled outdoor outlet box attached (with the wires just nutted off). I just grabbed a welder outlet from Lowes and screwed everything down. Someone must have had a hot tub or something back there at some point.

I need to go back to Lowes tomorrow and finish doing this right. I need to mount the cabled outlet, and outfit it with a proper outdoor cover setup. It's a hazard like it is... hehe. I flipped the breaker back off for the time being.

My first impressions of the welder should be taken with a grain of salt obviously, as I have never owned OR used one before. With that said.. this looks like a pretty badass little buzzbox for $500. Eastwood MIG 175.

The wire was simple to get going. It came with a 4" spool of ER70S-6... which I will happily use up on any metal scraps I can find. Everything seems to be of at least decent quality. Everything feels solid. Beyond that, I'll have to add more about the welder later once I stand a chance of knowing what I'm talking about. Here are some pics of what I pulled out of the (super heavy) box.

[thahemp]

So just in case I am able to get some advice before I go to the welding supply shop... what kind of gas should I get? I'm not horribly concerned about the cost of the gas. I know I'll need tri-mix at some point for this SS project. Can I weld other things with tri-mix as well?

I'd rather not get 2 bottles if possible... I just don't have the space in the garage.

I have no idea how long I should expect a bottle of welding gas to last. All I have to go by is CO2 for my kegorator, and that actually lasts quite a while... though I'm not sure how they're comparable?

I could google these things for myself, but instead, I'm going to go have another after-work cold one. I'd rather read it from the people I'm already familiar with anyways.