Engine Break in - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

TC · 05-21-2009, 04:51 PM

What is your feelings on engine break in? Drive it like your going to drive it from day one, or give it the 1500 miles like manual says.

LDGn63 · 05-21-2009, 04:53 PM

i've got 200 of the 1500 left to go... and i'm itchin....

The Dark Knight · 05-21-2009, 05:03 PM

What do you mean by "breaking in"...burnouts? Lead footin it? 0-60 trials?

tribone · 05-21-2009, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDarkKnight_23

What do you mean by "breaking in"...burnouts? Lead footin it? 0-60 trials?

What he said!!

sschons74 · 05-21-2009, 05:11 PM

Rings and valve seals will last longer if you break her in easy for at least 1500. After 5k it should feel even faster because of break in. Try to keep it under 5 grand until she is used to it, then drive it like you stole it.

TEAMBADDASS · 05-21-2009, 06:04 PM

F#ck that i had 35 dyno pulls in one day @157mph with only 50 miles on it and been taking it to 6700 rpm 50 to 100 times a day breaking that b!tch in..
the harder you drive it the harder it will run..you have to teach them while there young

Number_9 · 05-21-2009, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sschons74

Rings and valve seals will last longer if you break her in easy for at least 1500. After 5k it should feel even faster because of break in. Try to keep it under 5 grand until she is used to it, then drive it like you stole it.

I've always heard this too.... and to not run a consistent speed for too many consecutive miles. I assume this is still true too? Does the manual make mention of anything like this, along with the 1,500 miles?

69 Hugger · 05-21-2009, 06:12 PM

Do a search on "engine break in", you should find a couple threads that go into detail on how to break in the motor.

Got this from speedster, Modern engines are nothing like their counterparts of a decade or two ago. Bearing and ring materials are completely different and the level of finish on the crank/rods and cylinder walls is excellent. Valvetrains are also ready to go. These are roller drivetrains so varying the rpm isn't necessary like flat tappets for oil dispersion and tappet rotation.

The professional builders I have dealt with warm up the motor at 1,500 - 2,500 rpm, check for leaks and set the timing/fuel ratios. Then they change the oil and filter to get rid of any residual dirt/particles/break-in lube.

After that, they fire it back up, bring it to temperature and hammer it for as many dyno runs as necessary. This is from personal experience and there are probably factory GM types that know a whole lot more that can chime in.

Basically you are probably pretty safe in whatever break-in method you choose. GM tests these things to failure to make sure you don't...

If you want to be super safe, get to 500 miles to cover the drivetrain and brakes. Matter of fact you can do the pump and fade method to break the brakes in quicker. Change the eingine oil to get out any residual crap. Then fire it up and hammer it !!!

Hoss · 05-21-2009, 08:08 PM

OK we need 1500 miles on it......so what does Chevy say about the RPMs and oil changes?

Thanks,

Carl

JohnnyBfromPeoria · 05-21-2009, 08:43 PM

1. Heat cycle the engine. Start it from cold, go out and heat it up and park it until it cools off. The various materials "grow" and "shrink" ever so slightly, "getting to know each other." Do this several times. Really, the long waits between drives? You can call that bedtime.

2. Vary engine speed if you can. I take that to mean, don't head out on a cross-country trip on the interstate the day you pick it up.

3. Get some good deceleration cycles in there. Downshift sometimes instead of just braking to a stop. You can do this with either transmission. Find a nice long hill and accelerate down it then let it coast down in an appropriate gear. This is the best way to seat the rings quickly.

4. Change the oil. This doesn't help break-in, it gets the tiny metal pieces out of the crankcase and the filter. Don't worry about switching to an oil like Mobil 1, as that particular one, as most others, is a "type 3" synthetic. It's been modified through chemistry, but it isn't any more slippery than conventional oils, therefore will not impede any break-in procedure. It'll just cost a lot when you find out just how much oil your crankcase holds. I think the V-6 holds 7.5 quarts or thereabouts.

5. Use a good oil filter and change it at every oil change. I do not like Fram. I do like Purolator Pure-One, NAPA Gold and Mobil 1's filters. There are good ones that others will mention. Just don't go Fram. I'm thinking change oil/filter at 100/500/1500 miles, then follow the mfgr intervals. Do not buy into Jiffy Lube's hype of 3000 mile oil changes. If GM says 5000, do it then, unless you're driving all dirt roads, all the time, like Bo and Luke Duke or something.

Your mileage may vary. I know guys that do indeed go right out of the showroom and hammer the throttle and swear it's the right way. Maybe it is...just not on my car.

John B.

craigd853 · 05-21-2009, 08:55 PM

Listen the specs on the new engines being built now don't require a break in. The engine is ran on a dino now and the tolerances on new enginges are not like they were back in the 60's and 70's. Now if I'm wrong then someone please speak up. Thanks if I'm right and sorry if I'm wrong.

JohnnyBfromPeoria · 05-21-2009, 09:07 PM

Yes and no, CraigD853. The rings still need to seat completely. Deceleration cycling and heat cycling is easy and cheap insurance against a futuire oil-burner.

The brakes also need to be bedded in. Get yourself on a freeway exit ramp at a good clip and apply brakes firmly and consistently. Lather, rinse, repeat. Aviod panic stops for the first couple of days.

These modern engines ARE built with much tighter tolerances and are far more forgiving than 30 years ago. They are also much more expensive to replace if something goes wrong. But it probably won't...

John B.

rays · 05-21-2009, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnnyBfromPeoria

5. Use a good oil filter and change it at every oil change. I do not like Fram. I do like Purolator Pure-One, NAPA Gold and Mobil 1's filters. There are good ones that others will mention. Just don't go Fram. I'm thinking change oil/filter at 100/500/1500 miles, then follow the mfgr intervals. Do not buy into Jiffy Lube's hype of 3000 mile oil changes. If GM says 5000, do it then, unless you're driving all dirt roads, all the time, like Bo and Luke Duke or something.

John B.

+1
No Fram... The AC Delco filters are very good too. They are selling them at Wally World now too.

Vash · 05-21-2009, 10:06 PM

We have threads for this already with lot more info....

05-21-2009, 04:51 PM	#1
TC Drives: 2010 VR 2SS-RS Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Michigan Posts: 367 View My Garage	Engine Break in What is your feelings on engine break in? Drive it like your going to drive it from day one, or give it the 1500 miles like manual says.

05-21-2009, 04:53 PM	#2
LDGn63 Drives: WNABEE Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: DFW Posts: 538 View My Garage	i've got 200 of the 1500 left to go... and i'm itchin.... __________________ Why oh Why? Windshield=10" vertical mirror= 3 7/8" (that's almost 4") vertical that means that the mirror is 38.75% the size of the vertical windshield... it sure seems like the ratio could be better... just sayin.... our collective MIRROR patch: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24612

05-21-2009, 05:03 PM	#3
The Dark Knight Batmobile in Disguise Drives: 2009 Pontiac G8 Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Upland, Ca Posts: 2,080	What do you mean by "breaking in"...burnouts? Lead footin it? 0-60 trials? __________________

05-21-2009, 06:12 PM	#8
69 Hugger Drives: 69 Convertible Camaro Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sumit Point, WV Posts: 943 View My Garage	Do a search on "engine break in", you should find a couple threads that go into detail on how to break in the motor. Got this from speedster, Modern engines are nothing like their counterparts of a decade or two ago. Bearing and ring materials are completely different and the level of finish on the crank/rods and cylinder walls is excellent. Valvetrains are also ready to go. These are roller drivetrains so varying the rpm isn't necessary like flat tappets for oil dispersion and tappet rotation. The professional builders I have dealt with warm up the motor at 1,500 - 2,500 rpm, check for leaks and set the timing/fuel ratios. Then they change the oil and filter to get rid of any residual dirt/particles/break-in lube. After that, they fire it back up, bring it to temperature and hammer it for as many dyno runs as necessary. This is from personal experience and there are probably factory GM types that know a whole lot more that can chime in. Basically you are probably pretty safe in whatever break-in method you choose. GM tests these things to failure to make sure you don't... If you want to be super safe, get to 500 miles to cover the drivetrain and brakes. Matter of fact you can do the pump and fade method to break the brakes in quicker. Change the eingine oil to get out any residual crap. Then fire it up and hammer it !!! Last edited by 69 Hugger; 05-21-2009 at 06:26 PM.

05-21-2009, 08:43 PM	#10
JohnnyBfromPeoria Drives: 2012 LS M6, Black Join Date: May 2009 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 2,045	1. Heat cycle the engine. Start it from cold, go out and heat it up and park it until it cools off. The various materials "grow" and "shrink" ever so slightly, "getting to know each other." Do this several times. Really, the long waits between drives? You can call that bedtime. 2. Vary engine speed if you can. I take that to mean, don't head out on a cross-country trip on the interstate the day you pick it up. 3. Get some good deceleration cycles in there. Downshift sometimes instead of just braking to a stop. You can do this with either transmission. Find a nice long hill and accelerate down it then let it coast down in an appropriate gear. This is the best way to seat the rings quickly. 4. Change the oil. This doesn't help break-in, it gets the tiny metal pieces out of the crankcase and the filter. Don't worry about switching to an oil like Mobil 1, as that particular one, as most others, is a "type 3" synthetic. It's been modified through chemistry, but it isn't any more slippery than conventional oils, therefore will not impede any break-in procedure. It'll just cost a lot when you find out just how much oil your crankcase holds. I think the V-6 holds 7.5 quarts or thereabouts. 5. Use a good oil filter and change it at every oil change. I do not like Fram. I do like Purolator Pure-One, NAPA Gold and Mobil 1's filters. There are good ones that others will mention. Just don't go Fram. I'm thinking change oil/filter at 100/500/1500 miles, then follow the mfgr intervals. Do not buy into Jiffy Lube's hype of 3000 mile oil changes. If GM says 5000, do it then, unless you're driving all dirt roads, all the time, like Bo and Luke Duke or something. Your mileage may vary. I know guys that do indeed go right out of the showroom and hammer the throttle and swear it's the right way. Maybe it is...just not on my car. John B. __________________ 12 LS M6, IPF S/C, ASA GT-5 wheels, VMax PTB 1995 Mitsubishi Montero SR 1987 Dodge Raider Turbo Project 1986 Mitsubishi Montero 2.4l FI Transplant

05-21-2009, 05:11 PM	#5
sschons74 Drives: 16 Camaro 1SS & 82 Silverado C10 Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: VA Posts: 292	Rings and valve seals will last longer if you break her in easy for at least 1500. After 5k it should feel even faster because of break in. Try to keep it under 5 grand until she is used to it, then drive it like you stole it.

05-21-2009, 06:04 PM	#6
TEAMBADDASS 2010 2SSRS Camaro #72 Drives: 08denali08dually72chevy2010SS Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: baytown Posts: 201	F#ck that i had 35 dyno pulls in one day @157mph with only 50 miles on it and been taking it to 6700 rpm 50 to 100 times a day breaking that b!tch in.. the harder you drive it the harder it will run..you have to teach them while there young

05-21-2009, 08:08 PM	#9
Hoss Drives: 2004GMC Extended Cab Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: North Texas Posts: 623 View My Garage	OK we need 1500 miles on it......so what does Chevy say about the RPMs and oil changes? Thanks, Carl

05-21-2009, 08:55 PM	#11
craigd853 Drives: 2010 SS Camaro Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: MD Posts: 202	Listen the specs on the new engines being built now don't require a break in. The engine is ran on a dino now and the tolerances on new enginges are not like they were back in the 60's and 70's. Now if I'm wrong then someone please speak up. Thanks if I'm right and sorry if I'm wrong.

05-21-2009, 09:07 PM	#12
JohnnyBfromPeoria Drives: 2012 LS M6, Black Join Date: May 2009 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 2,045	Yes and no, CraigD853. The rings still need to seat completely. Deceleration cycling and heat cycling is easy and cheap insurance against a futuire oil-burner. The brakes also need to be bedded in. Get yourself on a freeway exit ramp at a good clip and apply brakes firmly and consistently. Lather, rinse, repeat. Aviod panic stops for the first couple of days. These modern engines ARE built with much tighter tolerances and are far more forgiving than 30 years ago. They are also much more expensive to replace if something goes wrong. But it probably won't... John B. __________________ 12 LS M6, IPF S/C, ASA GT-5 wheels, VMax PTB 1995 Mitsubishi Montero SR 1987 Dodge Raider Turbo Project 1986 Mitsubishi Montero 2.4l FI Transplant

05-21-2009, 10:06 PM	#14
Vash Drives: 00 Blazer Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Texas Posts: 5,104	We have threads for this already with lot more info....

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