04-15-2013, 01:46 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Elyria, Ohio
Posts: 89
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How easy to run wires into doors?
How easy is it to run new wires from car into the doors of a 2011 Camaro SS? Ive done it in a few other vehicles and it was a pain in my a$$.
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04-15-2013, 01:50 PM | #2 |
Drives: '11 SW 1LT RS Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Granite Bay, CA
Posts: 717
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I have no idea what you are doing but I hear that most people hire someone to do a door speaker swap because it's a pain. I have also heard that it's pretty hard to remove the door trim. I have no experience with the door but I am planing on steering clear of it. What are you trying to do?
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04-15-2013, 01:54 PM | #3 |
knows 2 facts about ducks
Drives: ...and they're both wrong Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The HMS Invincible
Posts: 25,072
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What are you looking to install and/or do?
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04-15-2013, 01:54 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Elyria, Ohio
Posts: 89
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i am going to put new speakers in the doors and i need to put the crossovers in the kick panels. But i refuse to pay someone to do it for me, ive had the door panels off already, but just to make sure of the speaker sizes before i ordered them.
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04-16-2013, 12:11 AM | #5 |
Drives: 2018 Hot Red ZL1 Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 3,599
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The speaker are 6.5 in.. as for the cables into the door.. its a bitch... the door panel is easy part.. as u said u got it.. but I thought u could put cables thru the connections plug from the car into the door but that is not multiple cables.. its actually a connector and the door has the receiving end.. I could not find another way but to make a whole on the door under the door hinge.. that was a PITA... but it works... then the its a plastic plug that is on the car side by the fender. Its round.. just remove it and it goes into the car.. that's how I run them in for the amp... the crossovers were taped inside the door with double sided tape... I have pics if u need more help
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04-16-2013, 05:39 AM | #6 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Elyria, Ohio
Posts: 89
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Thats a wiring harness and a connector plugging into the door for all the wire? so its not possible to run new wires without adding the wires through another hole? Oh that sucks!!! I have to run wire for the tweeter and midbass driver because the crossover is way too big to fit under the door panel. Guess i will have to look into getting a rubber boot to add from door to car then. Thanks.
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04-16-2013, 07:47 AM | #7 |
I added additional boot.......
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04-16-2013, 07:59 AM | #8 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Elyria, Ohio
Posts: 89
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Did you get the boots from dealership?
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04-16-2013, 09:11 AM | #9 |
Aural Assault Vehicle
Drives: 2010 IBM 2SS/RS, 2015 Sierra Denali Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Garner, NC
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I took mine to a shop. They drilled the molex connectors on the doors and ran the additional wires through the stock boot. From my experience I know that what they did was extremely difficult. I would have done it myself, but I didn't have the tools to do it with.
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04-16-2013, 09:22 AM | #10 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Elyria, Ohio
Posts: 89
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What did i get myself into? hahahaha...i need to get it done very soon too.
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04-16-2013, 12:04 PM | #11 |
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Also, if you're going to take the time to run extra wire into your doors, why not just go active on your fronts?
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Power Mods * K&N Typhoon CAI, Flowmaster American Thunder cat-back exhaust, Hurst Short Throw Shifter Exterior Mods * Black Phantom Grille * 22" T.I.S. 537MS wheels w/ Nitto INVO rubber * OEM body kit Suspension Mods * BC Racing Coilovers * Lakewood Strut Tower Brace Audio Mods * Stinger SPP 2250 Battery * Mosconi 6to8v8 w/ RCD * Pioneer AVH-X7500BT * Scosche Dash Kit * 2 - Mosconi AS200.4 * 2 - JL Audio 13W6v2 * Focal 165KRX2 Power (active) * Mosconi Gladen One 240.2 * Rockford Fosgate Power T1692 |
04-16-2013, 12:05 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Elyria, Ohio
Posts: 89
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Active?
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04-16-2013, 12:54 PM | #13 |
Drives: 2012 2SS RS Join Date: May 2012
Location: Orlando
Posts: 235
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Going to be doing this soon myself. Drilling the molex and passing through the stock boot is the only proper way and it is a pain.
Drilling a new hole in the door and jam and grommeting them works OK but is not the right way and you can end up crimping or cutting the wires in the jam when you open and close the doors. Also it allows water leaks into the cabin. |
04-16-2013, 02:56 PM | #14 |
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The crossovers you are referring to are "passive" crossovers. Active means letting the amp/s or processor determine crossover points and filters. Check out this thread - it might help you understand better. Active allows you more control over the sound and will allow you to get proper time alignment for a better front stage.
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/speak...e-explain.html The only reason I'm proposing this is because if you're going to take the time to do this or pay someone else to do it (drill your doors, etc), then going active is the logical next step. The difficulty of drilling the connectors/doors is why you see most people putting the crossovers inside the door cavities.
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Power Mods * K&N Typhoon CAI, Flowmaster American Thunder cat-back exhaust, Hurst Short Throw Shifter Exterior Mods * Black Phantom Grille * 22" T.I.S. 537MS wheels w/ Nitto INVO rubber * OEM body kit Suspension Mods * BC Racing Coilovers * Lakewood Strut Tower Brace Audio Mods * Stinger SPP 2250 Battery * Mosconi 6to8v8 w/ RCD * Pioneer AVH-X7500BT * Scosche Dash Kit * 2 - Mosconi AS200.4 * 2 - JL Audio 13W6v2 * Focal 165KRX2 Power (active) * Mosconi Gladen One 240.2 * Rockford Fosgate Power T1692 |
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