Hard starts when warm

[Gordo-D]

"In between this I read about running an extra earth lead to the motor and as it did it again it obviously wasn't that"

Thanks I did that about six months ago after reading about poor starting.
I will look in to the post issue though.

If this problem arises in the mild weather of the UK, how do people in much hotter climates manage?

[camguynj]

Post back with how you make out. Good luck! Also FWIW check out this product recall for 2010s Positive Battery Cable Routing

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21543

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by Gordo-D

"In between this I read about running an extra earth lead to the motor and as it did it again it obviously wasn't that"

Thanks I did that about six months ago after reading about poor starting.
I will look in to the post issue though.

If this problem arises in the mild weather of the UK, how do people in much hotter climates manage?

Would like to know where did you attach the extra earth lead from-to and what guage wire/cable did you use? Thanks

[Gordo-D]

I ran a really heavy duty piece of cable [what I would call starter cable thickness] from the earth on the drivers side chassis earth, to an unused tapped hole in the side of the block.

I have seen the starter issue and made sure mine was nowhere near rubbing through.

[camguynj]

I PMed the guy who first posted about adding an extra chassis ground and he said he has not had any hot start problems since (about 6 mos)..but he had already replaced his starter. Seeing that you are still having the problem after adding the extra ground maybe your starter had been weaked already and it's time for a new starter.

[Gordo-D]

You and I think alike.

Thanks for all the info as well.

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by Gordo-D

You and I think alike.

Thanks for all the info as well.

Welcome! Post an update if/when you do anything else. Good luck

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by Gordo-D

"In between this I read about running an extra earth lead to the motor and as it did it again it obviously wasn't that"

Thanks I did that about six months ago after reading about poor starting.
I will look in to the post issue though.

If this problem arises in the mild weather of the UK, how do people in much hotter climates manage?

I've done a lot of reading on how a car's power (ie. current/electrons) flows when a car is started. Found out that power/current/electrons actually flows from the battery negative terminal ground thru the car's cabling circuit as the electrons are attracted/pulled to the battery positive terminal when the car is started. After a car is started current/power is provided and flows from the alternator negative ground to the battery positive terminal.

Our cars have a secondary positive battery post under the hood on a sheet metal mounting bracket. When starting this bracket creates enough resistance to reduce the current from the positive cable in the trunk that's connected to the post ***the cable then goes to the starter*** resulting in reduced current/electrons being pulled/drawn by the starter from the starter's negative electron battery source (the engine block neg ground). The more heat soak a starter experiences the more current/electrons is required to be pulled/drawn by its positive cable connection thru the starter coil wrappings from the starter's negative ground supply of electrons. This explains why even after you added the 2nd chassis to engine neg ground you still experienced hot starting difficulty (you were flowing more electrons/current to the starter but it wasn't pulling that much more). It's like attaching multiple batteries to a dead starter, no matter how much power you supply the starter isn't going to draw/pull any current. On cold starts the starter isn't slowed by the reduction of current from the post's positive cable because the starter is able to use the current it's drawing/pulling more efficiently than when it's affected by heat soak.

Bottom line it seems the best way to overcome hot starting due to starter heat soak is to add a jumper bypass cable to the underhood positive battery post cable to bypass/overcome the reduction of current draw thru the starter due to the positive battery cable post's resistance rather than adding a 2nd chassis to engine ground, as every guy that's added the jumper cable has not reported anymore hot starting problems. See Add Jumper Bypass Cable to underhood positive battery terminal (posts 49 & 53) http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...=399658&page=4 Using a 9" 1/0 guage cable with 1" of each end's insulation stripped off and joined to the post cable by #1/0 copper split bolts wrapped with two different grades electrical tape should be just fine for a secure insulated permanent connection.

Adding a 2nd negative chassis ground cable to the engine block (1 or 2 guage and 12"-15" depending on which chassis hole you use) together with the jumper cable wouldn't hurt, along with putting a heat shield wrap on the starter ...a belt and two suspenders.

fyi ...only the positive battery cable runs from the trunk to the engine (the underhood positive post). There is NO negative battery cable run from the trunk to the engine! The battery negative cable is grounded in the trunk. Negative current from the trunk's battery flows from the trunk ground thru the frame to the ABS bracket on the front passenger side chassis where it's grounded and flows current to the block via a fat pigtail looking shaped cable ...see attached pic.