Drive-able supercharger

[Sam88gta1]

Originally Posted by HufferSS

Opinions obviously vary....there no just nitrous cars on the FAST list which last place is 11.60. Certainly doesn't mean they can't but I just don't think they can, you do. The OPs car is an M6....which is a bear to launch anyways....adding nitrous complicates it and I don't think his car would pick up anywhere near like your buddies. It isn't as simple to say that the slower a car is the more it gains.

I agree on the 500 rwhp...I mispoke...CHally's are more like 500 at the flywheel and run low 12s. Your car is a freak imho...and certainly not representative of the average Camaro.

500 in a Camaro...will not run high 10s easily....and not at all in my opinion. Just look at the last 3 cars on the FAST list....they all have CAI, LTs and at least DRs and the fastest of those three runs 11.53. The SC only cars aren't killing it at the track....you don't see em on the FAST list and you don't see them knocking down amazing time slips. That's the true point I was trying to make....that if you are going to do it..then do it right.

Don't forget OrangeChevyII. Long before you guys figured out how to make the supercharger cars run fast he was already in the 10's with simple bolt ons and a nitrous system. Don't rule out the nitrous cars because they are not dime a dozen around here.

[Supercharged SS]

Originally Posted by Sam88gta1

Don't forget OrangeChevyII. Long before you guys figured out how to make the supercharger cars run fast he was already in the 10's with simple bolt ons and a nitrous system. Don't rule out the nitrous cars because they are not dime a dozen around here.

And where is he now.....he faded out like an empty nitrous bottle.



J/K. A 400 shot will do wonders for anyones car!

[RayYork]

Originally Posted by Kronix

If you want to keep your warranty, then contact SLP and get their Stage 1 SC. The key is a GM/Chevy/SLP authorized shop must install it. I went this route, my dealership is installing it this week, and SLP offers 2 warranties, a 3/36K or 5/100K. I chose the 5/100K for just under $800. You can take you car to any Chevy dealer, and they'll perform service, if the SC was the cause then SLP covers it directly to the dealership.

I'm not talking from assumptions or hear-say, I'm having this done this week, researched it for 2 months before I even bought my car. That was the main reason I went with SLP, because they've been working hand in hand with Chevy for over 40 years. My dealership is even cutting me a discount on the install because I hooked them up with SLP and opened the door for them to do more work in the future. So if you want to keep your warranty (which was one of my main reasons), then seriously consider the SLP route. There's a bunch of dealerships already working with SLP, and more & more are signing up to do installs. Their HQ is out of Toms River, NJ, but if you need the West Coast's director's info let me know, I have it.

http://www.slponline.com/

Perfect, thank you!

[HufferSS]

Originally Posted by Sam88gta1

Don't forget OrangeChevyII. Long before you guys figured out how to make the supercharger cars run fast he was already in the 10's with simple bolt ons and a nitrous system. Don't rule out the nitrous cars because they are not dime a dozen around here.

I'm not ruling anything out...I'm just stating what I am observing and Orange is using more than a 150 shot and isn't what I would term stock.

I love nitrous.....just stating my opinion on what I think is possible.

[HufferSS]

Originally Posted by Supercharged SS

And where is he now.....he faded out like an empty nitrous bottle.



J/K. A 400 shot will do wonders for anyones car!

Zactly....400....150....two different animals.

[SSSoon]

Originally Posted by HumanWiki

I'm putting 560 to the ground and the PZeros are all but useless in the first 2 gears under full throttle and there's only so much you can pick up by babying the car out of the hole and relying on your top end to make up the difference.

Just curious where you're thinking of going with the traction issues HumanWiki. DRs I bet, but I wish there was a good solution that worked on the street. You thinking of wider wheels or other tires that still work well on the street?

[Sam88gta1]

Originally Posted by HufferSS

I'm not fighting about this all night....your numbers don't match things that Orange Crate has posted and at the end of the day....I don't even care. His car has been heavily modded for both power and weight and when that happened and what ET he was able to post is debatable.

The easiest way to prove it can be done is for anyone else anywhere in the world to bolt a 150 shot onto a stock SS and run 10s. It won't happen....Orange Crate didn't do it and at the end of the day THAT was what I said to begin with. What is it about you that you have to fight with everyone in every thread?

I stand by what I said earlier.

Quote what he said about the car. Prove to me that our stories dont match. I am talking about what happened in September-November of 2009. We didnt remove weight from the car until May of 2010 when the 427 and th400 went in the car. There are clear videos on YouTube of both the 10.98 and 10.28 passes.
If you dont believe that car went that ET with those modifications I feel for you. Do you dismiss it all because you were only able to run 10.6's?

I dont fight ,I simply tell the truth. You people cant handle the honest truth.

[Kronix]

Originally Posted by RayYork

I drive my 2011 2SS/RS M6 100 miles per day. I want more HP but don't want to kill my freeway MPG.

1) Is this possible? (I saw something on Horsepower TV about a CA legal "passive" supercharger)

2) Is this possible w/o killing my warranty? GMPP offers a supercharger.....

3) I'm a little obsessed with having more HP than my buddy's 392.......

Please advise........

THIS WAS THE OG POST.....4 pages of my dick's bigger than yours later and the OG poster has to scratching his head looking at this stuff...stick with what I said RayYork and you'll be good.

[JohnnyComeLately]

There's 4 minutes of my life I won't get back.

To answer the original question: Most dealers will get very picky about warranty items with a power adder. I'd suggest you just consider it gone, esp on anything powertrain related. They may replace an EGR valve under recall, but not a blown tranny.

If you do some searching, you will find GM dealers that offer their own blower packages with a shop warranty. Just use the search and you'll find them.

For drivability, I'd say any centrifugal blower is where you want to be. Under normal driving, you're not under boost and so the system isn't doing much other than a slight parasitic loss at the crank and intake air flow. Not going to effect MPG much, if at all.

Finally, I can't let this slide, but back on page 1 the comment was made the bypass lets air in. No, this would make the MAF airflow reading horribly off and result in a really screwy situation. The bypass is for that split second after you let off the gas, while under boost, and it keeps you from doing nasty things from the buildup of pressure. You hear it on the turbo cars when they're shifting gears, while again, making boost.

I had a ProCharger on my '97 Trans Am and drivability was great with no MPG effect on my daily driver. Things changed a bit after the Vigilante racing torque converter, LT headers, hi flow cats, and SLP cat back, but it still could get good mileage. I just had to be careful in certain situations where boost sneaks up on you before the tq converter locks up.

[grocerygetter]

Yeah...in an auto, typically, cam or converter is detrimental to mileage.

[HumanWiki]

Originally Posted by Supercharged SS

So, did we decide which blower is driveable yet?

Everything but those POS Maggy cars that keep breaking down...








(has Maggy)

[Camarowguy]

Whew loOk what I missed! Lol. This thread took a sharp turn. I'll let you guys know what my car runs. I'm putting my nos kit on in the next couple weeks. Ordering hp tuners today do I can turn the timing down. Stay tuned.

[HumanWiki]

Originally Posted by SSSoon

Just curious where you're thinking of going with the traction issues HumanWiki. DRs I bet, but I wish there was a good solution that worked on the street. You thinking of wider wheels or other tires that still work well on the street?

Honestly, I'm on the fence about how I feel on the car... So, since I don't know if I'm going to sell the car in the summer of '12 or keep it -- I've put on hold any mods I don't already own and the PFADT Sways I have at the house now are staying off the car until I decide one way or another.

But, I was looking at 18" lightweight wheels w/ DRs of some brand.. I've had a couple options on the 20"s, but the stock wheel is just too heavy and there's just not enough sidewall flex in the right size tire on that wheel..

I'm happy with my 11.973 now and am not so hard up on a piece of paper that I'm going to sink 2000.00+ just to knock off .2-.5 seconds on a 1/4 mile and have the risk of blowing the clutch, output shaft or center section doing so..

I too wish there was something that worked on the street for the conditions I see.. Chicago roads are utter shit. Potholes, dips, pits, etc. I dare not risk driving around on track wheels that may not withstand the sudden abuse that OEM wheels will take. Also, there's a lot of smooth surfaces around that are difficult enough now to deal with. I don't need to exacerbate the issue with a tire that's designed to be heated up before demanding it to work. Then there's the cooler/cold winters, ice, snow, etc.

As much as I would love to have it... We as a species simply don't have the technology to make a tire-like device that can morph to the current environment and provide ultimate traction in all conditions and if we could, I don't even want to know how many commas would be in the price.

[Matster]

Originally Posted by JamesNoBrakes

Which is what happens any time you accelerate. It's only "bypassing" when you are at cruise/constant speed.

Incorrect, the only time you get boost is under "hard" acceleration. My boost gauge indicates vacuum (motor only) under normal driving conditions and shows boost only when the right pedal is abused (to the floor).