2012 Camaro ECM Secrets Revealed

[IndeedSS1]

Originally Posted by IMJ

Well. Wiseass? He has no supercharger, and this was more about extending the joke by taking the time to add a filter.

I didn't think he was presenting anything as a joke. Jason is usually serious about testing stuff.

[IndeedSS1]

Originally Posted by E.T.

There's no such thing as 'true ram air" unless your going like 300 mph. The ram air effect at normal driving speeds, even highway speeds, is minimal at best.

Here's a nice writeup that Jannetty posted a while back:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38314

This a portion of a paper written by Jim W. from Easy Performance. the rest is worth reading as well. He is one of the sharpest technical guys that I know.

Other considerations must be given to where the induction system is drawing air from, with respect to static pressure. Because the vehicle is designed to be in motion, the airflow dynamics surrounding the vehicle and the influence it has on the induction system should not be ignored. As the vehicle builds speed, various low-pressure zones and high-pressure zones are created around the vehicle. A good induction system will take advantage of these high-pressure zones and use the pressure available to feed the induction system. If done properly, the inlet to the induction system can be at pressure levels above ambient atmospheric pressure. This type of artificial boosting of the air pressure is commonly referred to as a "Ram Air" effect. This effect is based again on Bernoulli's equation. In this situation, the relative velocity of the air striking the front of the vehicle must slow down to approximately zero when entering the large volume air box. The energy from the air velocity changing must result in increasing the static pressure. If the air velocity is very low in the air box, then the friction losses can be considered negligible. Thus, the extended Bernoulli's equation given above can be rewritten as follows:

This relationship means the change in air pressure is directly proportional to the square of the change in air velocity. Since we are near atmospheric pressures, the Ideal Gas Law can apply. If we assume constant air density for the small changes in air pressure, then the relationship above can be written as:

Plotting this relationship with the appropriate constants and values derives the following chart.

From this chart, it can be easily seen that allowing the air box to become pressurized with dynamic air pressure can be very beneficial towards optimizing the induction system. This Ram Air effect grows with vehicle speed and becomes significant to above ~80 mph. This effect can only be taken advantage of when the inlet to the air box is open to the frontal area of the vehicle. If the air box or intake area is exposed to the sides or the undercarriage area of the vehicle, positive air pressures may not be available. Worse yet, some areas surrounding the vehicle can actually have lower air pressures because of the same relationship is working in reverse. This would mean that the air box is drawing air from regions of low pressure that exist at some point around the vehicle. Caution should always be exercised when selecting the area surrounding the vehicle that will feed air to the air box. Actual pressure measurements will ensure the best possible location is found and the benefits are realized.

[Jason@JacFab]

Originally Posted by litle88

Sorry Jason I couldn't help it....lol

This is what vararam has us doing!
Blowing our cars!
Ps Jason your holding the tube really good lmao!


Blown car is a happy car!

I guess I need to learn what challenges to accept better... Sexual car favors... In the name of science.

[litle88]

Lmao!

On a side note I did also assumed that there were some things directed at you and I'm glad you stood up for yourself and saw through all that smoke.

I can't wait for your intake Jason. Here's to you!

[1989GTA]

"From this chart, it can be easily seen that allowing the air box to become pressurized with dynamic air pressure can be very beneficial towards optimizing the induction system. This Ram Air effect grows with vehicle speed and becomes significant to above ~80 mph. This effect can only be taken advantage of when the inlet to the air box is open to the frontal area of the vehicle. If the air box or intake area is exposed to the sides or the undercarriage area of the vehicle, positive air pressures may not be available. Worse yet, some areas surrounding the vehicle can actually have lower air pressures because of the same relationship is working in reverse. This would mean that the air box is drawing air from regions of low pressure that exist at some point around the vehicle. Caution should always be exercised when selecting the area surrounding the vehicle that will feed air to the air box. Actual pressure measurements will ensure the best possible location is found and the benefits are realized."

It seems to me that if a person was to try and utilize the pressure from the Ram Air effect it would seem that the only inlet into the "cold air box" would have to be from the pressure area in front of the car. Any other openings in the air box might defeat the purpose unless actual pressure measurements were taken as was stated in the last sentence. So otherwise would want the box to be airtight.

[IndeedSS1]

For those of you wanting to read more on cai design. Here you go.

http://www.easyperformance.com/suppo...eration-primer

[knitetrain05]

Ok, you unplugged something and it ran. Is that better? what proof do you have that it maybe running better?, or not?. You dont explain enough here. Your point is....

[litle88]

Knighttrain didn't you read? I mean he showed a video for gods sake. If you can't read, watch and listen you have issues sir.

[1989GTA]

Originally Posted by IndeedSS1

For those of you wanting to read more on cai design. Here you go.

http://www.easyperformance.com/suppo...eration-primer

Excellent read. Thank You for the link. I am installing an L92/6l80 into a 1965 Buick Skylark and will be building my own cold air intake as I have done in other cars. I have a basic design in mind and will follow the CAI design somewhat but with a couple of more changes after reading the article.

I have always like the ceramic thermal barrier coatings on the 4" aluminum intake tube as that is an easy way out for the "do it yourselfers". The article references a 4" radius 4" aluminum 90 degree bend but I will try and squeeze in a 6" radius 90 degree bend for the reasons referenced in the article.

[airborne0073]

Originally Posted by litle88

I'm glad you said it Ted, if not I'd be this big troll.
Secrets hu?

Sales@vararam yes I love your product for my 10 BUT, starting with the wedge and now with the last few posts you and this thread has thrown me over the edge. I'm sorry but I feel let down with how you guys are approaching things ie sales and information. I can only imagine a new person trying to learn. If I feel dizzy after reading some of the smoking mirror posts I can only imagine what they are thinking. I feel dumber lol.

It's just how "I" feel! God now I know what J Cutler felt the other day lol.

Posted from Camaro5.com App for Android

[IndeedSS1]

Originally Posted by 1989GTA

Excellent read. Thank You for the link. I am installing an L92/6l80 into a 1965 Buick Skylark and will be building my own cold air intake as I have done in other cars. I have a basic design in mind and will follow the CAI design somewhat but with a couple of more changes after reading the article.

I have always like the ceramic thermal barrier coatings on the 4" aluminum intake tube as that is an easy way out for the "do it yourselfers". The article references a 4" radius 4" aluminum 90 degree bend but I will try and squeeze in a 6" radius 90 degree bend for the reasons referenced in the article.

He didn't use a metal or plastic duct on his intake. Near as I can tell since roughly 05 he's been using something made by Flexaust called Raceflex iirc. I've got to be honest, I've ran an intake with a ceramic coated aluminum tube and on a daily driver. During the summer you can feel the performance drop. I was curious one afternoon and after a short round trip, I pulled in the garage, pulled the filter off and found the inside of the tube was every bit as hot as the outside. I think silicone tubing, Raceflex, or wood may be a better thermal option. Out of those three, I've only ran Raceflex as a duct.

[Jason@JacFab]

Originally Posted by IndeedSS1

He didn't use a metal or plastic duct on his intake. Near as I can tell since roughly 05 he's been using something made by Flexaust called Raceflex iirc. I've got to be honest, I've ran an intake with a ceramic coated aluminum tube and on a daily driver. During the summer you can feel the performance drop. I was curious one afternoon and after a short round trip, I pulled in the garage, pulled the filter off and found the inside of the tube was every bit as hot as the outside. I think silicone tubing, Raceflex, or wood may be a better thermal option. Out of those three, I've only ran Raceflex as a duct.

Wood! Why didn't I think of that?! It would probably take me too long to whittle out a 4" wood tube...

[1989GTA]

Originally Posted by IndeedSS1

He didn't use a metal or plastic duct on his intake. Near as I can tell since roughly 05 he's been using something made by Flexaust called Raceflex iirc. I've got to be honest, I've ran an intake with a ceramic coated aluminum tube and on a daily driver. During the summer you can feel the performance drop. I was curious one afternoon and after a short round trip, I pulled in the garage, pulled the filter off and found the inside of the tube was every bit as hot as the outside. I think silicone tubing, Raceflex, or wood may be a better thermal option. Out of those three, I've only ran Raceflex as a duct.

I understand that and mine does the same thing externally. I even have a black heat despersent coating on the outside to help things out. However the IAT temperatures are very good. At a stop light with little air moving in relationship to some movement and throttle the IAT will go up some but once I am moving again it will drop back down quickly.

IMHO the thermal barrier slows down the rate of temperature transfer to the incomming air charge significantly. Kind of like holding a hot cup of coffee in your hands using a styrofoam cup. As you say there are probably better materials but for the price the coating works quite well.

[IndeedSS1]

Originally Posted by 1989GTA

I understand that and mine does the same thing externally. I even have a black heat despersent coating on the outside to help things out. However the IAT temperatures are very good. At a stop light with little air moving in relationship to some movement and throttle the IAT will go up some but once I am moving again it will drop back down quickly.

IMHO the thermal barrier slows down the rate of temperature transfer to the incomming air charge significantly. Kind of like holding a hot cup of coffee in your hands using a styrofoam cup. As you say there are probably better materials but for the price the coating works quite well.

Right but the IAT sensor is away from the side of the tube, normally closer to the filter end and more in the direct flow. If the IAT sensor were directly in front of the throttle body the story would be much different, when comparing intakes. The temps read by the IAT sensor does make adjustments to the timing (ECM) affecting performance, but actual temps effect performance as well.

If one must run a metal tube, I'd think coating just the inside of the tube would be better. Just like the intake boxes that use insulation inside. It keeps the inside cooler and not insulating the outside allows heat to radiate. I talk to Jim years ago about putting insulation on the outisde of a metal intake box as well, and he was the one that explained why that wouldn't help.