07-08-2014, 06:09 PM | #85 |
Drives: 2014 1LE Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 479
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266....which seems like the max everyone else is reading. My thoughts are this: It's a stock engine on a 65 degree day after just a few laps, and it hits this temp so I don't know how accurate it is. Coolant is well below halfway on the temp guage. I'll change my oil out regularly and with good synthetic. I'm not too concerned with oil temps at this time. Not that this is any scientific indicator, but my other cars' oil would be pitch black after tracking. The oil in the Camaro was still golden and translucent. I'm sure someone who just spent an hour on Bob'stheoilguy will just blast me into the weeds talking about oil temps and longevity.
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07-08-2014, 07:48 PM | #86 | |
Drives: 14 1LE Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 1,567
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LMS Engineering
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07-08-2014, 08:09 PM | #87 | ||
Drives: 14 1LE Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 1,567
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I've been contemplating, when it's time for new pads, to either upgrade to CF XR1/XR3 with the stock calipers or continue with the stock pads and use the CTSV up front. If I sell my 1le front calipers I think going CTSV will be cheaper than going CF all around. Not only that, but I heard CF dust is like concrete on your wheels if it gets wet. Thoughts?
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LMS Engineering
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07-08-2014, 08:35 PM | #88 |
Drives: 2014 1LE Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 479
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CTSV calipers up front with inexpensive pads front and rear for the street. The CF pads will go in for the track. I clean everything regularly so I'm not worried about dust. Hell, with the Carbotechs, one day at the track made the entire side of the car look like it was being dusted for prints. No doubt because of the dead hooker found inside, but that's another thread.
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07-09-2014, 05:31 PM | #89 | |
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Used Racing Brake 2 Peice Rotors for sale:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=344754 Summit White 2014 2SS 1LE Recaros, NPP exhaust, Nav 2010 2SS A6 - sold. |
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07-09-2014, 05:37 PM | #90 |
Drives: 14 1LE Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 1,567
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I thought you were going to do the CTS brakes a while back? Are you still selling them?
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LMS Engineering
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07-09-2014, 05:49 PM | #91 |
Drives: '16 C7 Z51 Join Date: May 2012
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 3,056
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I'll first try the car with stock calipers with good fluid, ST43 pads, and Quantum brake ducting, pushing the cooling air directly onto the rotor. If this is not enough, I might as well get the StopTech front kit. It would be a grand more than the CTS-V brakes, but at least it would also weigh way less than the stock systems and also cool much better.
By the way, White_SS/RS, I was at Spokane Raceway last weekend for the Chumps race: what a jungle of concrete, hills, ditches, and rattle snakes! The facility also looks like a racing venue post an apocalyptic event. It was sure fun to dive-bomb other cars after the straightaway, though :P The best time our team was able to do with '91 Nissan 240SX was 1:45.
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'16 Corvette C7 Z51 1LT (Build Thread)
'14 AGM 1SS 1LE [COTW 11/17/14] (Build Thread) (SOLD) '13 Mazda MX-5 Club (Build Thread) '17 RAM 1500 Crew Cab 4x4 Night Edition '15 Nissan Rogue S AWD |
07-09-2014, 07:11 PM | #92 | |
Drives: 14 1LE Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 1,567
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That straight is wicked fast and if you have the ability to late brake, it will take seconds off your lap. same with the other straight. Its one of the reasons I'm contimplating the CTS setup when its time for new pads. Maybe sooner! 1:45 sounds about right for the chump cars.
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LMS Engineering
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08-04-2014, 11:15 AM | #93 |
Drives: 2014 1LE Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 479
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Here's an update on my CTS-V upgrade... Ordered the yellow ones since they were in stock. Had the paint stripped then painted them with VHT.
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08-04-2014, 06:46 PM | #94 |
Drives: 2014 1LE Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 479
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Ok just a little heads up for anyone who has a '14 and plan on installing ducts. The black plastic that you are supposed to cut into with the 3" circular is a smaller piece than the '13's and earlier. You have to do some trimming and use something like an L bracket to support the weak side of the intake. No biggie but it's not as simple as the earlier models. Grrrrr.
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08-04-2014, 07:29 PM | #95 | |
corner barstool sitter
Drives: 08 Mustang GT, 19 WRX Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eastern Time Zone
Posts: 6,990
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It's important because the pad friction material is the only insulation between the really hot surfaces and the caliper pistons (and obviously the fluid behind them). Hello . . . what's this ↓↓↓ ? Norm |
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08-04-2014, 07:53 PM | #96 | |
Drives: 2014 1LE Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 479
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That line is just pad dust from when I set the pads on the rotors after removing them. |
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08-04-2014, 10:12 PM | #97 |
So Cal Race Team
Drives: 2013 Camaro Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Sunny So Cal
Posts: 3,584
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If you're just starting to use Cobalt Friction pads, buy a second set of rotors now, you'll need them soon...
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08-06-2014, 07:32 PM | #98 | |
Drives: 2013 2SS 1LE Track Ready Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 57
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Using StopTech Big Break kit here amoung other things!
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