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Old 10-16-2013, 12:07 PM   #1
kiteman

 
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have any of you guys with aftermarket amps had power issues?

my car just died the other day while i was driving down the road, including the steering wheel locking up. tried to jump, restart, nothing. the next day it started right up no jump needed. because of the steering wheel locking i thought it was very dangerous to drive, i took it to the dealer and they said it died because i have aftermarket amp power cables hooked to the battery. they say this causes my car battery cables not to have a proper connection to the battery.

if you guys know, our batteries have a separate connection point on the +/- where amp cables can be attached (see link below, posts pointing up are separate from the actual cable connections coming from the car), which is where i attached them. i don't see how that is possible for cables connected here to interfere with the main battery cables connection to the battery, not to mention i check this before i left for the dealer and all connections were tight.

the problem now is twofold in that they are making me pay for this "fix" and i don't really think it's fixed at all and i'm concerned for my safety driving the darn thing.

have you guys ever had this happen or see any way this could happen? maybe there is something i'm not considering that could be going on (and the dealer has a good point and just not explaining properly)? i've had the amp hooked up for 2 years and nothing like this has ever occurred.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/attach...1&d=1373987908
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Old 10-16-2013, 02:04 PM   #2
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Had my ******** box and amp on my '10 for 4 years hooked up directly to the battery as you, never had a problem. In my ZL1 I have had same set up for a month with no problems, although this time I hooked up to the same post as the power cables.

I believe the post you are referring to isn't actually an accessory post, just the nut and stud to tighten the clamp to the post, but either way shouldn't make a difference IMO.
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Old 10-16-2013, 02:29 PM   #3
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Had my amp in my car since i bought it brand new over 2 yrs ago and not one problem. Who did your install and your dealership isn't a certified audio installer so despite any credentials they throw around you should get a second opinion. your right on all the information you stated about the way the batteries in these cars connect to amps so something is causing an electrical default code to throw which is why your computer shut the car off and locked the wheel atleast thats my best guess with what i've seen of the computer safety in these cars thus far.
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Old 10-16-2013, 02:33 PM   #4
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i never had a problem and i have had a amp wired directly to the battery for 3 years
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Old 10-16-2013, 05:57 PM   #5
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Batter might be the problem if you have a bed cell in it but you can ck that with a miter but if your car dies when driving or Motor running I would start looking at the Alternate or bad Connection there. Batter are only used to start and to be used as a back up power out put for what ever the alternete can not do Templar. After you start the car alternate takes over and chages batter as well if you have a bad batter alternete can chargers it you end up side of the road. Bad connection or bad alternate you end up side of the road.
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:03 PM   #6
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Battery and alternator both tested working and healthy...??
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:05 PM   #7
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I have 2 amps connected and no issues. The ******** amp has been for a while. The second recently. Never an issue ... Ever yet.

I'd say bad connection or bad cell in battery or alternator.

Are you in a v6 or v8? Not sure the v6 alternator can keep up as much with power draws....

Julio
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:14 PM   #8
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mine is fine....small but no issues
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:20 PM   #9
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Kiteman.. your dealer is an idiot.. bet it is related to an "OnStar" issue.. you have an account with them or did you buy used and possibly have a previous owner that had an account? Maybe a glitch within the "Locate/block/disable" features they supply for theft deterrant..
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:33 PM   #10
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Ok when I did car audio when back and forth with many of dealers about this Normally ended up being bad regulator in the Alternator. Buy the way for S&G what amp are you running
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Old 10-16-2013, 09:33 PM   #11
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It happened to me when I first hooked my amps up. Went to crank the car and nothing. The ground was not loose but it wasnt making full contact. Machined myself a ground block and welded it to the car. Never happened again
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:42 PM   #12
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I like the alternator, battery theory. Hope everything works out for you.
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Old 10-17-2013, 12:22 PM   #13
kiteman

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old as Dirt View Post
Kiteman.. your dealer is an idiot.. bet it is related to an "OnStar" issue.. you have an account with them or did you buy used and possibly have a previous owner that had an account? Maybe a glitch within the "Locate/block/disable" features they supply for theft deterrant..
well i thought this too, but called onstar and they said no way it was them since i don't have an active account.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DraggnFrameGMC View Post
It happened to me when I first hooked my amps up. Went to crank the car and nothing. The ground was not loose but it wasnt making full contact. Machined myself a ground block and welded it to the car. Never happened again
oh weird. what's a ground block? the only thing is i bought knukonceptz battery ring terminals which are very thick. i do remember it was hard to screw them on the battery, but i didn't loosen car's ground cable in order to attach those terminals, so if any problems they caused i would have assumed it be not getting enough power to the amp, not the car. it sounds like you experienced a similar problem? hrmm, maybe the dealer is on to something here? pic of the knukonceptz ring terminals:

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...m?prodID=SSRT0

so guys at this point i don't really know what to do except pay the $120 dealer labor fee and get my car back. if it happens again just demand a refund? i mean either they fixed it and i owe the $120 (which is fine if that's true), they fixed it and are lying about what the problem was so they can charge me (i'd never figure this out), or the problem reoccurs and they refund me. what do you all think?

Last edited by kiteman; 10-17-2013 at 12:36 PM.
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Old 10-17-2013, 01:33 PM   #14
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your dealer still sounds like an idiot but you might aswell pay them to have it fixed and keep the receipt in the glove box.
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