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Old 06-18-2010, 09:37 AM   #15
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I just used washers when I added the LT headers. No point in spending money down there for a nice looking aftermarket brace.
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Old 08-30-2010, 03:36 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toehead93 View Post
I just used washers when I added the LT headers. No point in spending money down there for a nice looking aftermarket brace.
Yup. I used 3 3/8" washers per bolt. Cost me $1.64 at Home Depot. As much as I want the billet aluminum tunnel brace, I don't have a hundred bucks right now (cause I'm pretty sure I'm going to be buying something else right now. )

But, that $99 brace is by far the best deal I've found on the net. That would be the one I'd go for in a heartbeat.
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Old 08-30-2010, 04:02 PM   #17
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The Elite Engineering brace will give you more clearance,I purchased a BMR brace and it gave me the same clearance as a stock brace.If you look at the pic above you can see you will have more clearance,the BMR grace is flat just like your stock brace giving you no extra clearance.
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Old 08-30-2010, 04:08 PM   #18
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I have the Spohn brace, hope it works with the BMR subframe connector I just purchased a few minutes ago, other wise it will be up for sale here.
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Old 08-30-2010, 04:57 PM   #19
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I'm running the Elite Engineering brace with my 3" Magnaflow system. The clearance is great. The brace is a really nice piece...almost too nice to bolt underneath the car!
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Old 08-30-2010, 08:10 PM   #20
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Save yourself the $100, better yet, send me the $100

When installing the new exhaust, put some cardboard on the tunnel brace (about 1/2" - 3/4" thick). Lay the new pipes on the cardboard. Finish installing the rest of the exhaust system and tighten all of the clamps. Now remove the cardboard you placed on the tunnel brace, you now have 1/2" - 3/4" clearance between the pipes and tunnel brace. You can add 1 or 2 3/8" washers between the brace and underbody if you still need more clearance.
Problem solved.
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Old 08-30-2010, 08:30 PM   #21
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Save yourself the $100, better yet, send me the $100

When installing the new exhaust, put some cardboard on the tunnel brace (about 1/2" - 3/4" thick). Lay the new pipes on the cardboard. Finish installing the rest of the exhaust system and tighten all of the clamps. Now remove the cardboard you placed on the tunnel brace, you now have 1/2" - 3/4" clearance between the pipes and tunnel brace. You can add 1 or 2 3/8" washers between the brace and underbody if you still need more clearance.
Problem solved.
For me that wasnt enough room. I had over 1" of clearance and still the resonator would slam into the brace when I hit certain bumps in the road.
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Old 08-30-2010, 08:34 PM   #22
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I have noweed diverters and my exhaust basically sits on tunnel brace and I dont know why because the pipes are stock. I guess cutting original and making so many different connection points made the exhaust sag. Dont know what to do.
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Old 08-30-2010, 08:43 PM   #23
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Mines vibrating now.

First I'll see about raising it without messing with the brace. If that doesn't work, I'll use washers. I see no reason to buy a new one.

When I installed mine, I let it rest on the brace when I was assembling the exhaust underneath the car and fogot to lift it off when I tightened the clamps.

It's gotten worse and worse ever since the install. Easy fix either way.
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Old 09-07-2010, 08:28 PM   #24
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I took a coupler for aftermarket turbo pipes or cai and wraped it with exhaust wrap and sandwiched it in between the tunnel brace and motel and as I tightend up the brace bolts it actually pushed the exhaust upward as it mashed down on couple creating a tight fit but keeping it off the brace!!! Works for now. I had plenty of time to be creative since I now have my new set of race ramps!
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Old 09-08-2010, 09:06 AM   #25
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I tried raising the exhaust, no go, still hits on some bumps.. Tried washers, no go (still hits). Tried creating a hanger to keep the exhaust from getting that far down and hitting the brace but that introduced noise into the cabin. Right now I just have the brace removed entirely.
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Old 09-08-2010, 11:25 AM   #26
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Something is not right with your exhaust install. There is no way you should still be hitting the tunnel brace after trying all that stuff. I would loosen all exhaust clamps, and loosen your cats as well. Raise the pipes about 1" above the brace and support them. Tighten everything down and you should be good to go!
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Old 09-08-2010, 11:31 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by ITGuy11 View Post
Something is not right with your exhaust install. There is no way you should still be hitting the tunnel brace after trying all that stuff. I would loosen all exhaust clamps, and loosen your cats as well. Raise the pipes about 1" above the brace and support them. Tighten everything down and you should be good to go!
They sit more than 1 inch above the brace. However, due to the flex pipe on my CATs, they can move quite a bit vertically. If the CAT was built without a flex pipe this wouldnt be an issue.
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Old 09-08-2010, 09:03 PM   #28
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I have wondered if a person could weld a large head bolt to the middle of the exhaust; a bolt with a good length. Drill a hole through the center of the brace with a nut on the bolt above and below the brace to prevent vertical movement but allow for total adjustment and removal. And allow to dial in on a perfect spot without further vibrations and rattles. Just food for thought?
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