ZR-1 Clutch Install - HELP!

[GrinderSS]

Hey guys, I've installed a new ZR1 clutch along with a Level 6 TR6060 transmission from RPM. Everything is back together and I've bled the clutch, but it seems the travel on the slave cylinder is not long enough to disengage the clutch when the pedal is pressed completely to the floor.

The clutch kit came from RPM along with my transmission, it included a new aluminum flywheel, a new throwout bearing/slave cylinder, and the Lingenfelter slave cylinder adapter/spacer.

Any tips would be a HUGE help as I'm stuck at this point.

[acowherd]

Did u heat up your aluminum flywheel? Like put it in the oven or on a hot plate?

Were you sure the spacer and throwout are installed correctly?

[GrinderSS]

Originally Posted by acowherd

Did u heat up your aluminum flywheel? Like put it in the oven or on a hot plate?

Were you sure the spacer and throwout are installed correctly?

Yes on the flywheel and the throwout/slave cylinder. The spacer was placed behind the slave cylinder as shown in this picture:

[acowherd]

Did the flywheel torque down evenly? Sure the flywheel seated properly? The clutch torque down on the alinement pins? 100 percent sure the clutch is bleed? Visual verification with clear hose? Did you bleed manually or with a power bleeder?

I am just throwing things out there...brainstorming.....

[GrinderSS]

I really appreciate the input!

The fly wheel went on perfectly after I baked it to 200 degrees; if it's any indicator the starter engages and starts the car just fine.

I tried manual bleeding and even went out and bought a power bleeder and tried it (it still could be bled incorrectly as I'm just following the typical brake bleeding procedure). I did use a clear hose and a catch can, the fluid that came out during the manual bleeding didn't seem to have any air bubbles. I'm not sure what else to look for.

I'm beginning to wonder if that Lingenfelter spacer needed to go on in the opposite direction. There's a recess on one side of it that I put toward the transmission, I'm beginning to wonder if that needed to go the other way. God I hope that's not the case.

[acowherd]

I feel for you....I know your not wanting to pull that tranny back out, but I can't think of what else could be wrong. I was leaving the spacer for last.

[Graham Behan]

Originally Posted by GrinderSS

I really appreciate the input!

The fly wheel went on perfectly after I baked it to 200 degrees; if it's any indicator the starter engages and starts the car just fine.

I tried manual bleeding and even went out and bought a power bleeder and tried it (it still could be bled incorrectly as I'm just following the typical brake bleeding procedure). I did use a clear hose and a catch can, the fluid that came out during the manual bleeding didn't seem to have any air bubbles. I'm not sure what else to look for.

I'm beginning to wonder if that Lingenfelter spacer needed to go on in the opposite direction. There's a recess on one side of it that I put toward the transmission, I'm beginning to wonder if that needed to go the other way. God I hope that's not the case.

The small OD of the spacer should face out and the Throwout fit over this diameter. I assume you have a Katech flywheel, if this is made to the Stock depth dimension it should be the same as ours. I have not seen a Katech part and do not know its exact dimensions. When we have seen release problems it is normally due to distortion / damage to the pressure plate assembly caused in shipping, GM part is not packed very well.

Graham.

[GrinderSS]

Originally Posted by Graham Behan

The small OD of the spacer should face out and the Throwout fit over this diameter. I assume you have a Katech flywheel, if this is made to the Stock depth dimension it should be the same as ours. I have not seen a Katech part and do not know its exact dimensions. When we have seen release problems it is normally due to distortion / damage to the pressure plate assembly caused in shipping, GM part is not packed very well.

Graham.

Thanks Graham, that's how I installed it. Whew! FYI a it might be a good idea to stamp "Transmission Side" or something on that spacer for dummies like me.

The pressure plate looked like it was in perfect condition and I was very careful about tightening it down using the recommended pattern. I'm still hoping it's air in the slave cylinder.

[Capthowdy]

`try to reverse bleed it....Take your clearhose fill with fluid and slowly blow fluid back to the res ...watch for overflow...

[GrinderSS]

Originally Posted by Capthowdy

`try to reverse bleed it....Take your clearhose fill with fluid and slowly blow fluid back to the res ...watch for overflow...

I'll give that a shot!

Odd thing is that the clutch pedal "feels" pretty solid. I can actually feel the pressure plate releasing/engaging in the pedal.

Is it possible that I put the one "loose" clutch disc on backward? I distinctly recall putting the side that said "flywheel side" toward the flywheel, but who knows maybe I'm dyslexic

[Capthowdy]

Originally Posted by GrinderSS

I'll give that a shot!

Odd thing is that the clutch pedal "feels" pretty solid. I can actually feel the pressure plate releasing/engaging in the pedal.

Is it possible that I put the one "loose" clutch disc on backward? I distinctly recall putting the side that said "flywheel side" toward the flywheel, but who knows maybe I'm dyslexic

Anything is poss I guess....That rev bleed should resolve an air pocket though.....

[GrinderSS]

Originally Posted by Graham Behan

The small OD of the spacer should face out and the Throwout fit over this diameter. I assume you have a Katech flywheel, if this is made to the Stock depth dimension it should be the same as ours. I have not seen a Katech part and do not know its exact dimensions. When we have seen release problems it is normally due to distortion / damage to the pressure plate assembly caused in shipping, GM part is not packed very well.

Graham.

Graham, I believe you're right, it is a Katech flywheel. Everything seemed to fit together well. Do you happen to know if there was some prep work that the pressure plate needs before bolting it to the flywheel? Once I cleaned the flywheel surface with brake cleaner, I simply put the second clutch disk behind the pressure plate and bolted it on.

[Wesman]

Before you try anything else, bleed the system manually again, using the 2 person method.

Concentric slave systems can be a real PITA to bleed. Sometimes a bubble of air will get stuck somewhere, and the mityvac/pressure bleeder just won't get it out.

4th-gen F-bodys are notorious for this. I've never had a problem with the F-cars that I've done, but I did have a concentric slave M5OD in an F-150 give me a hell of a time. Ended up having the pump the pedal rapidly to dislodge air pockets and then open the bleeder.

The method with 2-person bleeding is hold clutch to floor, open bleeder and let out air/fluid, close bleeder, release clutch pedal (pull it back up, it will probably be stuck to floor) and repeat. You will probably end up going through an entire quart of brake fluid before all the air is 100% out.

Remember, it doesn't take much air to wreak havoc on a clutch hydraulic system, the smallest air pocket will cause the slave to not fully extend and give you trouble with clutch disengagement.

[GrinderSS]

Originally Posted by Wesman

Before you try anything else, bleed the system manually again, using the 2 person method.

Concentric slave systems can be a real PITA to bleed. Sometimes a bubble of air will get stuck somewhere, and the mityvac/pressure bleeder just won't get it out.

4th-gen F-bodys are notorious for this. I've never had a problem with the F-cars that I've done, but I did have a concentric slave M5OD in an F-150 give me a hell of a time. Ended up having the pump the pedal rapidly to dislodge air pockets and then open the bleeder.

The method with 2-person bleeding is hold clutch to floor, open bleeder and let out air/fluid, close bleeder, release clutch pedal (pull it back up, it will probably be stuck to floor) and repeat. You will probably end up going through an entire quart of brake fluid before all the air is 100% out.

Remember, it doesn't take much air to wreak havoc on a clutch hydraulic system, the smallest air pocket will cause the slave to not fully extend and give you trouble with clutch disengagement.

Holy cow an entire quart! I've not even used 4oz with the amount of bleeding I've done so far. I assumed that since the pedal "felt" good it was bled sufficiently.

I'll try bleeding more thoroughly.