Assistance - Trunnions and New Springs Install

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by gunchamp

No, remote tuning with HP tuners

Did Ted ask you to data log first?

[gunchamp]

Let me hit you with a pm

[InFiD3ViL]

I went with the CHE bushing kit for a few reasons. They have oil grooves in the bushing surface, they are a precision fit and simply press in with your fingers, and they have a shouldered bushing, which makes it so there are no guesses or worrying about setting bushing depth...and also because they have a very good reputation with few reported failures.

Mine have 11k miles on them now, so another 9k miles or so I will pull them and inspect during my spring change and of course post pictures here.

The one thing I have noticed is that you really have to look hard to find anything negative about the premium trunnion bushing kits, ie. CHE, Smith Bros, Straub, Powell, etc. On the other hand, the Comp trunnion kit is known to be an 'avoid at all costs' type of part, and has gained quite the reputation. But people still buy them because of the name and price, unfortunately.

[GCguy2169]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

I went with the CHE bushing kit for a few reasons. They have oil grooves in the bushing surface, they are a precision fit and simply press in with your fingers, and they have a shouldered bushing, which makes it so there are no guesses or worrying about setting bushing depth...and also because they have a very good reputation with few reported failures.

Mine have 11k miles on them now, so another 9k miles or so I will pull them and inspect during my spring change and of course post pictures here.

The one thing I have noticed is that you really have to look hard to find anything negative about the premium trunnion bushing kits, ie. CHE, Smith Bros, Straub, Powell, etc. On the other hand, the Comp trunnion kit is known to be an 'avoid at all costs' type of part, and has gained quite the reputation. But people still buy them because of the name and price, unfortunately.

I feel good about have the CHE kit in the Camaro now. Glad to see someone like you is doing their research. I try to keep in mind, people tend to only complain when there is a problem. When things are all good, you dont see posts with people saying "My xxxxxxx trunnion kit is all good!" that often. I went with the "TEXAS SPEED .660" POLISHED DUAL SPRING KIT W/ PAC VALVE SPRINGS, TITANIUM RETAINERS, & PRC INTEGRATED SEAT/SEAL."

The only thing that saved me from dropping a valve, is that fact that the springs were dual. The smaller inner spring just barely held that valve up enough. When the outer spring broke, it also destroyed the valve seal I discovered. It was completely gone, and only a few tiny rubber fragments remained. These LS motors are something else. Stout.

Broken outer spring on platinum dual spring kit from BTR with approx. 30k miles on them.



New OEM rockers from Jegs.com



Broken spring with the outer spring removed. Inner still intact. Titanium retainer chewed up from outer broken spring.



Obvious wear damage from broken spring. Cylinder Head. Luckily this is still fine.



Picture of the beginning of spring removal and replacement. Some of the valve seals looked bad, so those were replaced as well. The tool I used I bought from Amazon for about $35, however I hated using it. I will be buying a better one for next time.



New Valve Seals Installed - I used a 21mm deep well socket to seat them properly. There is a very distinct sound once they are seated, just like tapping metal with a hammer.



Overview of the valve springs removed, valve seals, exposing the valve guides. Right side new springs installed, left side old springs being replaced.



New rockers from Jegs, as well as the new CHE trunnion kit installed.



New Springs, Valve Seals, Rocker Arms, and Trunnions installed. The red grease is "Red and Tacky" that was used to help install the valve lockers (keepers). The rockers and trunnions were highly lubed during assembly with Lucas Assembly Lube, which I highly recommend. Oil Change at the same time as obvious.

[zz430camaro]

Steel retainers are the way to go on the street.

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Originally Posted by olblue75

The solid bronze bushings are supposed to be much better than any of the bearinged trunnions kits.

We just did a valve spring "refresh" on mine last week after 23k miles, new BTR .660's. And while we had it all apart checked the trunnions and bushings for wear and they all looked great. I have the Smith Brothers kit installed. And I have spent many a run over 7200 with them since they were installed.

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Originally Posted by GCguy2169

I feel good about have the CHE kit in the Camaro now. Glad to see someone like you is doing their research. I try to keep in mind, people tend to only complain when there is a problem. When things are all good, you dont see posts with people saying "My xxxxxxx trunnion kit is all good!" that often. I went with the "TEXAS SPEED .660" POLISHED DUAL SPRING KIT W/ PAC VALVE SPRINGS, TITANIUM RETAINERS, & PRC INTEGRATED SEAT/SEAL."

The only thing that saved me from dropping a valve, is that fact that the springs were dual. The smaller inner spring just barely held that valve up enough. When the outer spring broke, it also destroyed the valve seal I discovered. It was completely gone, and only a few tiny rubber fragments remained. These LS motors are something else. Stout.

Broken outer spring on platinum dual spring kit from BTR with approx. 30k miles on them.



New OEM rockers from Jegs.com



Broken spring with the outer spring removed. Inner still intact. Titanium retainer chewed up from outer broken spring.



Obvious wear damage from broken spring. Cylinder Head. Luckily this is still fine.



Picture of the beginning of spring removal and replacement. Some of the valve seals looked bad, so those were replaced as well. The tool I used I bought from Amazon for about $35, however I hated using it. I will be buying a better one for next time.



New Valve Seals Installed - I used a 21mm deep well socket to seat them properly. There is a very distinct sound once they are seated, just like tapping metal with a hammer.



Overview of the valve springs removed, valve seals, exposing the valve guides. Right side new springs installed, left side old springs being replaced.



New rockers from Jegs, as well as the new CHE trunnion kit installed.



New Springs, Valve Seals, Rocker Arms, and Trunnions installed. The red grease is "Red and Tacky" that was used to help install the valve lockers (keepers). The rockers and trunnions were highly lubed during assembly with Lucas Assembly Lube, which I highly recommend. Oil Change at the same time as obvious.

Great info and awesome pics sir!!

[InFiD3ViL]

Yikes!

Those pictures are awesome and painful at the same time. You sure got lucky on that one man. My spring kit came from GPI, who uses BTR hardware mainly, so they supplied the 2 piece seal type. As for your inner spring saving the valve? It did exactly what it was designed to do, which makes me very happy to see.

That 'cheap' spring tool you used...I did the same thing, but I cheaped out even worse. The tool I bought barely made it through the second head. The worst part was that the way it was designed, it was shedding aluminum shavings that I had to go back and clean up. It was made of a chunk of soft aluminum and a long bolt. It did only 1 spring at a time. I hate buying disposable tools and won't make that mistake again.

Originally Posted by zz430camaro

Steel retainers are the way to go on the street.

Curious as to why? I'm guessing the titanium is lighter, but it's more brittle, while the steel is stronger but heavier over the valve?
I saw on another parts site they offered Tool Steel. I wonder how that factors into this discussion.