Re-painting and clear coating the engine bay

[nicave13@gmail.com]

Hopefully this is useful to owners like me with car's, probably older, Chevy did not choose to clear coat the engine bay. My doors and trunk are, just not under the hood. I am still a novice painter, so this should be a very do-able DIY for anyone out there. I am expecting a lot of general mechanical and Camaro specific knowledge. I didn't take a lot of process photos of tedious removal and re-assembly. I will go into detail though. Also, keep in mind I haven't done hood yet, but it should be easier just unbolt it and it's stuff and follow the painting steps in the next post. So we got a plan, let's get started with it step by step.

First dis-assembly:
1. Disconnect battery and jack up car (safely) and remove tires and inner fender liners.
2. Remove engine cover, fuse cover and air intake.
3. Next remove entire front bumper. Their are other DIY's for this, I've done it 10 times and takes 30 min. Disconnect the GM weather pack for side markers on passenger side. Remove 8 10mm bolts in each fender and the 2 8mm ones. Then remove the 6 10mm bolts on top and the 2 underneath. Help is nice, but then simply lift up and forward. Set aside on a soft safe place.
4. You will need to remove entire fuse panel by first unplugging GM weather packs, disconnecting 12V power attachment point in front then loosen the 3 chrome screws that hold in the three fuse blocks underneath. Release the four tabs on the corners holding fuse area to fuse base. It removes easily and the three fuse blocks can be set aside. Remove base by taking out the one bolt.
5. Remove large curved black wiring harness on top of passenger shock tower. Pull towards and drape over engine.
6. Remove 12V jump point and lower wire out of the way. Remember the battery is disconnected so no problems here. Lower on shock tower push into the wheel well the plastic cover and lower wires out of the way.
7. Un-bolt hood release and with slack in cable lower it off the shock tower and out of the way.
8. Remove windshield washer bottle. Disconnect and pull down lower hose then attach upper hose up on hood or out of the way.
9. Check over and remove or lower any other obstructions that will be in the way. Take off chrome sticker on drivers shock tower. Remove rubber hood bumpers, rubber weather stripping, 4 plastic hood level set screws, etc.
10. Next to are maybes, but not 100% necessary. Remove headlights, I didn't do this but can be visible unless masked perfect.
11. Finally if you choose remove windshield wipers and plastic panel beneath. Wipers are very hard, bend back and pry off. Use vice grips if needed, don't scratch panel beneath. I had already done this and it gives you much better access for painting the hinge area. I couldn't take hood off, no help, but this will offer a cleaner job.

Whew!!! Sounds like a lot, took about 1.5 hours. Next is cleaning and masking. When painting preparation is 90%. Without a good base, bad paint job. Luckily under hood is already smooth and painted. We just gotta make it pretty.

1. First use a scuff pad to scratch up entire area to be painted, but nothing that will be outside the masked area. Very important, know what you are and aren't gonna paint ahead of time. You will be painting hinge area, tops of fenders, under fenders in gutter area, shock towers and below as far as you can go, black areas above headlights, hood strut base, and entire front header panel above radiator. It is very difficult on passenger side to paint around ABS module, and it is to difficult to remove with hard metal lines. Additionally go as low as you dare on both shock towers, it can be hard to paint down there. What you paint is up to you.
2. Once scuffed wash everything with a lot of vinegar and de-greaser type dish soap. You want to remove any oil or residues on the areas to be painted. This is super important! Get it scuffed, get it clean!
3. Rinse well and dry, dry, dry!!! I shammied, toweled dry then blow dried. Then just wait a while to make sure no moisture is left. Moisture kills paint jobs.
4. Time to mask. This is make or break time. You will need 3 large plastic sheets, sold at WM together and a roll of good strong masking tape, not painters blue tape. First I covered engine from radiator panel back to top of windows. Then both fenders, tape first mostly from underneath leaving enough sticky to attach plastic too. Do your best around ABS module and lower shock towers. I picked body seems to stop painting. Mask on the inside of the hood hinge area. I also painted the front panel on the sides of the radiator. Pick a spot you want to stop close to the radiator itself. Then mask around the entire front end meeting up with side fender pieces. Take special care around fender tips where they would have meet the front bumper. Their is space for paint to blow through. Leave as much of the radiator support showing as it all needs to be painted.

See my next post for the rest of the details.

[nicave13@gmail.com]

Ok, so now everything is scuffed, clean and masked. Now you need to remove any dust or lint particles. They sell sticky stuff for this, but I don't like the residue or problems it can cause. My hands are very dry, no oil, so I use them. Or some clean latex gloves would work. BTW, do this in a garage or on a calm day. I didn't have this choices so I used a piece of cardboard as a wind blocker and lucked out.

Now it's time to paint. Get at least 24 oz of your factory matched paint. Go light here and take your time. It's time to paint any areas that aren't body colored or if you have any scratches, which I did. Take care to do light coats so no runs. You got time here, so take it. Make sure to remove dust between coats waiting at least 5min, or I just kept going side to side in a big circle. It takes that long to get back around to start point. See pic's below of what it should look like painted, first four shots.

Now it's time to wait, at least 30 minutes, preferably an hour or so. Rain delayed me 4, so I had to really work at getting it lint free again. Yes, I painted mine during a rain storm. It was sunny when I started, and 0% chance... Ideally lower humidity is better for painting.

When your ready to clear, think again. If this is your first paint job, do one before this. Clearing is the hardest part of painting. Here in Vegas it dries so fast and you want it to have a smooth dimple free wet look when done painting. I'm talking it'll look when your done how it looks when painting. Do one semi-light base coat, ie not dripping wet or you WILL get runs. Then do one or two more wet coats, thick but again take care to not have runs. Hardest part is keeping it wet while clearing. I worked clockwise from driverside hood mounting point. Also work top top bottom, cause that's how gravity works. Clear flakes will mess your paint if don't go top to bottom.

More waiting, depending on paint, I used enamel cause lacquer is no longer offered at WM... Minimum 10 minutes between coats, more like 15. Can't use the same circle pattern, needs more time than base. Entire process takes an hour and I used 2 12oz cans. DO NOT use last 10% in cans, it's crap and I'm super cheap. 2 coats will work, 3 is fine and more is overkill.

Now its final wait time. Minimum 2 hours for any clear. This stuff takes a week to fully cure, so don't set things on it or lean against it. Time to re-assemble, reverse of earlier steps. Don't get excited here and scratch your new work. Really take care with wiring harnesses and fuse box. Other than my 4 hour rain delay I did this from 6am till 8pm in one day.

See next post for final pay off shots!!! Can't believe how great it turned out!!!

[nicave13@gmail.com]

I am getting better at taking photos, but I'm not the best First is in the dark to show gloss, then sun!!! I love how IOM sparkles in sunlight, even though its no CFM on the 45 anniv cars. I almost got a flawless job, and nothings ever perfect.

I had so much time waiting I went ahead and painted 12v jump point and area next to grille that was still factory black, see 5th and 6th pics.

Finally see my dorkiness and my Transformers quote on the windshield wiper panel. I smoothed it, painted gloss black and added a quote in IOM and of course Transformers font =D Not my best work, but first time doing lettering and that plastic had lots of issues. Then my paint sucked too:( Next time!!!

You could always wait 2 days to a week and go back and wet sand out any orange peel. I have very little, close to outside of car, but smaller dimples so I may just leave it. How would it look if underhood looked better than outside??? :O Then again... If you do wet sand and buff good luck! Go through dis-assembly again. I would mask areas not to be wet sanded then go 1500 and 2000 super wet! Then rubbing compound and a nice polishing compound. I do everything by hand anyway so tight confines and weird shapes are my cup of tea. Maybe some day

I have this to say to the haters before they make a negative comment.

Opinions are like A-holes, we all got em and they all stink. By exposing yours you show what you are.

We are all on here for a shared love of cars and Camaro's in paticular. Let's keep things positive. Since the day in 2009 I got this car people have had negative things to say, what does that say about the self esteem and confidence of the commenter? Thank you, that is all.

[driyac]

Damn impressive!

[alcal1084]

I can't tell the difference sorry...?

[midnighter]

Looks clean. Great job.

[nicave13@gmail.com]

Alcal,

Open on a larger monitor, or your blind:P

Thanks to the 2 others!

[ToolFan66]

That big bowtie on the engine cover kills it for me.. Keep in mind I hate the bowtie on these cars so I mean no disrespect...

Other then that nice job. Some billet aluminum parts would set it off a little more..

[Grey Ghost]

Wow very nice write up and photos. Thanks for taking the time to post these. A big help to guys like me who haven't done this with an engine still in the car.

[nicave13@gmail.com]

Thanks Greyghost! I wonder how many didn't get factory clear coated and when they started?

[strych9]

IBTL

Nice write-up, Don't take criticisms to heart unless there's value in them. Everybody on these forums has opinions, some keep to themselves, some take the opportunity to give it to you. Let the opinions that you don't like slide off without a thought. Keep up the good work!

[babytiger]

nicave, I will commend you on the task you took on and the result is impressive. But your mindset that no one should comment unless they agree with your taste is absurd.
That being said, the bowtie slapped on the front of the engine cover does look horrible, but that IS MY OPINION.
That is why people post on here, to get feedback, options, opinions. I sure hope you are not so narrow minded to think otherwise.
And this is a forum for adults, but your veiled threats sent to others by PMs bragging about having members banned speaks volumes about you....

[Mishimoto]

Plenty of vehicles have dull looking engine bays because separate coats of clear are generally applied for UV protection.

I've got some comments/questions below from being in the collision repair industry for years. I just want to make it clear that I'm not trying to be negative at all with what I'm saying or asking.

I know you said you're novice painter, but have you tried rolling the tape for a soft edge yet? It makes a huge difference, and not actually painting to a tape edge but allowing the paint to "blow" to it can help reduce the hard line. I also noticed you said you had a problem with the "sticky stuff" they sell for removing lint and dust, so now I'm curious as to what you tried? I've always used tack rags and have no problems with them.

[nicave13@gmail.com]

I understand about UV protection, nice. I just want it shiny under there.

I do use tack rags and they always leave residue for me. Even my fingers are all gummed up. That is really good advice on the edging, not something I knew about yet. I have been teaching myself and have learned a great deal already.

Thank you for all the impute, you are a man among boys.

Nic

Originally Posted by Mishimoto

Plenty of vehicles have dull looking engine bays because separate coats of clear are generally applied for UV protection.

I've got some comments/questions below from being in the collision repair industry for years. I just want to make it clear that I'm not trying to be negative at all with what I'm saying or asking.

I know you said you're novice painter, but have you tried rolling the tape for a soft edge yet? It makes a huge difference, and not actually painting to a tape edge but allowing the paint to "blow" to it can help reduce the hard line. I also noticed you said you had a problem with the "sticky stuff" they sell for removing lint and dust, so now I'm curious as to what you tried? I've always used tack rags and have no problems with them.