TVS2300 front pulley bolt snapped off on removal - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Blue70SS · 03-01-2015, 11:11 AM

Has anyone had a front jackshaft pulley bolt snap off on removal? Any advice on the thread removal would be greatly appreciated. Blue Loctite is recommended by Magnuson, but every shop I've heard of uses Red and it hasn't been a problem for me in the past. It's on a 2.75 10 rib pulley and I've looked at various screw extractor options/methods. I saw the "use a center punch for drilling a good center hole", "use a good quality Matco or Snap-on screw extractor, etc - but haven't started the process yet since I know it's a one shot deal usually.

I haven't tried removing any of the other 3 bolts yet to keep the car drivable to a repair shop. The temp was around 50 degrees in the garage.... so not sure how much that played a part.

Also Loctite shows 500 degrees for removal of locked bolts..... I'm a bit afraid of overuse of heat for 2 main reasons.
1) Potential for the front bearing seals/grease being damaged, which gets into pressing a new bearing, entire jackshaft removal, flange pulling/pressing, etc.
2) Potential for damaging the jackshaft carbon fiber shaft bond

This is the M6 10.9 hardness bolt: http://www.flangebolts.com/shop/m6-1...0-9-zinc-14701

(So just under 1/4" for the M6 bolt)

jrpxxii · 03-01-2015, 03:54 PM

Just take your time and tap it and drill it

H-E · 03-01-2015, 04:14 PM

I would try another one,if we need to get you a new hub just let me know.

Blue70SS · 03-01-2015, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrpxxii

Just take your time and tap it and drill it

Quote:

Originally Posted by H-E

I would try another one,if we need to get you a new hub just let me know.

I'll see how it goes.... expecting the other 3 to snap too. Maybe some heat. Pulling the whole blower for a vacuum leak anyway, but should be easier to deal with on the car - unless the hub gets replaced. It's even a new hub Thomas that Ray @ RDS pressed on after doing the full multiple bearing presses and such. Blue Loctite works loose, so Reds about the only choice :(

Rat · 03-01-2015, 05:11 PM

Start with a small revearse drill bit.

Lots of times it will back it out on its own.

old motorhead · 03-01-2015, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rat

Lots of times it will back it out on its own.

With red locktight on it? Good luck with that. I've never used any type of locktight on Maggie blower pulley bolts. The underside of the bolt heads that I've used were serrated and locked pretty good. Never had one get loose on me. Guess I've been lucky???

z3R0fo01 · 03-01-2015, 07:24 PM

Put a towel down and use plenty of oil so the bit doesn't heat up too much. That will save on bits. Just go slow. If an extractor does not work u will just have to drill it out. When you go to use the extractor u could try using a soldering gun right on the screw. Same goes for taking the rest off.

I have heard that red stuff is a real pain. Not sure the heat will do much but it is worth a shot. People sometimes use for gas blocks on ars (not a smart idea). Even with that much heat it still holds and is tough to break lose when it cools back down. It is also very difficult to get it out of threads. There is another thread locker that is used for suppressors that is heat resistant but water soluble.

Why is red the only choice? It is only for permanent applications.

Nitroman28 · 03-01-2015, 07:52 PM

If you get the other 2 out and remove the pulley might be enough of the bolt sticking out to get vice grips on it. And no need for snap on. Just get some Irwin easy outs. Use recommend bit size. But if the bolt broke taking it out. Don't see an easy out working. Drill it and put a helicoil in if all else fales.

pdiddy · 03-01-2015, 09:17 PM

I have had one or two come loose on mine also, I am pretty sure I have Loctite on mine red as well, but the red I am using is not as strong as the new stuff mine is about 20 years old lol I am guessing if you get the other two off you might have a chance at getting ahold of it just use heat as mentioned above

Pro-tuned · 04-12-2015, 11:50 AM

You can always weld a nut on the end of the broken bolt and try backing it out.

Blue70SS · 05-04-2015, 10:41 PM

FYI, after trying to extract the bolts with no success - the hub was removed and replaced. To ensure the pulley wasn't sliding back and forth under loading/unloading on revs and decels, I double pinned the hub and drill matched 2 holes in the pulley This is working great so far. Plans are to have a jig made up for precision drilling hubs and pulleys. This way the pins are taking the load and not the bolts. The bolts will only hold the pully on, while the pins will keep the pully and hub in sync without rocking back and forth on the bolt threads.

03-01-2015, 11:11 AM	#1
Blue70SS Drives: 10 LS3 2SSRS IOM,21 ZLE Wild Cherry Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Denver Posts: 2,126	TVS2300 front pulley bolt snapped off on removal Has anyone had a front jackshaft pulley bolt snap off on removal? Any advice on the thread removal would be greatly appreciated. Blue Loctite is recommended by Magnuson, but every shop I've heard of uses Red and it hasn't been a problem for me in the past. It's on a 2.75 10 rib pulley and I've looked at various screw extractor options/methods. I saw the "use a center punch for drilling a good center hole", "use a good quality Matco or Snap-on screw extractor, etc - but haven't started the process yet since I know it's a one shot deal usually. I haven't tried removing any of the other 3 bolts yet to keep the car drivable to a repair shop. The temp was around 50 degrees in the garage.... so not sure how much that played a part. Also Loctite shows 500 degrees for removal of locked bolts..... I'm a bit afraid of overuse of heat for 2 main reasons. 1) Potential for the front bearing seals/grease being damaged, which gets into pressing a new bearing, entire jackshaft removal, flange pulling/pressing, etc. 2) Potential for damaging the jackshaft carbon fiber shaft bond This is the M6 10.9 hardness bolt: http://www.flangebolts.com/shop/m6-1...0-9-zinc-14701 (So just under 1/4" for the M6 bolt) __________________ LPE 650+,IOM Pearl White Rallys 860 RWHP 924 RWTQ,TVS2300 10/14 OD 2.75/NW 102mm,RDS/FLOWED "109" SHOT/LPE NCC NLP spoiler/GM splitter/Torq HE-fans/oil coolers/IC1000cc Squash twins,GT9,Coil Covers,Mats,Pedals/ADM Gauges,Race Scoop/Trunions DDS CVs,Carbon F DS/RPM L6/LPE 9.5 3.73/Pedders HD bushes,align kit RB 2-piece rotors,S/S Lines,Hawk HPE Pads/Forgeline SP3P/Weld RTS Ceramic ARH 2" LT/3" X-pipe,Corsa Touring/BMR TA,Toe,LCA,DS Loop StreetSlayer BC3/MTI Shifter-Trans mt/Hotchkis CB/Monster CC/SJM LineLock PFADT Coil Overs,Sways,Links,Mounts,SF Bushes,Camber Kit LPE Brotherhood .

03-01-2015, 03:54 PM	#2
jrpxxii Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS 427ci Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Bowling Green, Ky Posts: 3,355	Just take your time and tap it and drill it __________________

03-01-2015, 05:11 PM	#5
Rat Drives: ZL1/TBSS/COPO Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Colorado Posts: 410	Start with a small revearse drill bit. Lots of times it will back it out on its own. __________________ .....2012/14 COPO #33....427, 1.31 60' ....9.39@143...... ................

03-01-2015, 07:24 PM	#7
z3R0fo01 Drives: 2014 1SS RS 1LE tvs2300 Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: MD Posts: 420	Put a towel down and use plenty of oil so the bit doesn't heat up too much. That will save on bits. Just go slow. If an extractor does not work u will just have to drill it out. When you go to use the extractor u could try using a soldering gun right on the screw. Same goes for taking the rest off. I have heard that red stuff is a real pain. Not sure the heat will do much but it is worth a shot. People sometimes use for gas blocks on ars (not a smart idea). Even with that much heat it still holds and is tough to break lose when it cools back down. It is also very difficult to get it out of threads. There is another thread locker that is used for suppressors that is heat resistant but water soluble. Why is red the only choice? It is only for permanent applications. __________________ SLP TVS 2300 Kooks 1 7/8" Rotofab intake NPP JRE tuned Last edited by z3R0fo01; 03-01-2015 at 08:04 PM.

03-01-2015, 09:17 PM	#9
pdiddy Drives: 2011 2SS Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Kansas City Posts: 997	I have had one or two come loose on mine also, I am pretty sure I have Loctite on mine red as well, but the red I am using is not as strong as the new stuff mine is about 20 years old lol I am guessing if you get the other two off you might have a chance at getting ahold of it just use heat as mentioned above __________________ 2011 2SS,fti th400, ECS 1500, Flex Fuel, Boost built 376, squash fuel system Last edited by pdiddy; 03-01-2015 at 09:18 PM. Reason: typo

03-01-2015, 04:14 PM	#3
H-E Account Suspended Drives: 2010 zr1 Camaro 2011 vert Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: everywhere Posts: 1,121	I would try another one,if we need to get you a new hub just let me know.

03-01-2015, 07:52 PM	#8
Nitroman28 Drives: 2010 Camaro SS 416/4L80 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Arkansas Posts: 1,835 View My Garage	If you get the other 2 out and remove the pulley might be enough of the bolt sticking out to get vice grips on it. And no need for snap on. Just get some Irwin easy outs. Use recommend bit size. But if the bolt broke taking it out. Don't see an easy out working. Drill it and put a helicoil in if all else fales.

04-12-2015, 11:50 AM	#10
Pro-tuned Angewendet Ingenieur Drives: 14 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: USA Posts: 401	You can always weld a nut on the end of the broken bolt and try backing it out.

05-04-2015, 10:41 PM	#11
Blue70SS Drives: 10 LS3 2SSRS IOM,21 ZLE Wild Cherry Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Denver Posts: 2,126	FYI, after trying to extract the bolts with no success - the hub was removed and replaced. To ensure the pulley wasn't sliding back and forth under loading/unloading on revs and decels, I double pinned the hub and drill matched 2 holes in the pulley This is working great so far. Plans are to have a jig made up for precision drilling hubs and pulleys. This way the pins are taking the load and not the bolts. The bolts will only hold the pully on, while the pins will keep the pully and hub in sync without rocking back and forth on the bolt threads. __________________ LPE 650+,IOM Pearl White Rallys 860 RWHP 924 RWTQ,TVS2300 10/14 OD 2.75/NW 102mm,RDS/FLOWED "109" SHOT/LPE NCC NLP spoiler/GM splitter/Torq HE-fans/oil coolers/IC1000cc Squash twins,GT9,Coil Covers,Mats,Pedals/ADM Gauges,Race Scoop/Trunions DDS CVs,Carbon F DS/RPM L6/LPE 9.5 3.73/Pedders HD bushes,align kit RB 2-piece rotors,S/S Lines,Hawk HPE Pads/Forgeline SP3P/Weld RTS Ceramic ARH 2" LT/3" X-pipe,Corsa Touring/BMR TA,Toe,LCA,DS Loop StreetSlayer BC3/MTI Shifter-Trans mt/Hotchkis CB/Monster CC/SJM LineLock PFADT Coil Overs,Sways,Links,Mounts,SF Bushes,Camber Kit LPE Brotherhood .