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Old 08-30-2009, 07:25 AM   #1
Darin Morgan
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The BEST Break for a new car. "very long"

“DISCLAIMER” Do not use the break in procedure below. Do not do hard acceleration runs and load your engine hard. You don't need this much power. I am not responsible for any damage, breakage or massive power increase caused by this crazy break in procedure. Just because every professional engine builder uses this procedure is no reason you should.


IMHO
The manual is written by people following “Corporate procedure” in order to mitigate the company’s exposure both legally and financially. If you don’t do what is outlined in there little manual they have ammo in court and for warranty if they so choose. It has almost nothing to do with how to properly break in an engine.
Some guy takes a new car out and turns the traction control off. He lays the coals to it like he has in his little import and WAMMO, he raps it around a telephone pole. Now what do you think the legal implications would be if the manual said to do 20 -30 hard acceleration runs and something like this happened. The manual has far less to do with break in and much more to do with legal exposure.

For over 25 years I, my family and every single person I am friends with, hang around with and work with build, test, tune, design and race for a living or sport. My brother and I have built some of the fastest engines in the world for just about every form of motor sports you care to name. Engines costing well over 100k-150k. I don’t say this to toot my horn but to give some measure of my background and experience. I do so because the statements I am making in this post will no doubt be controversial for those who have no experience with engine building, component design and high end research and development.

Ask 100 professional engine builders what break in procedure they use (no matter the form of motor sports) and I would venture that 100% would say LOAD them hard and change the oil often. It’s the ONLY way to properly break in an engine and anyone who says otherwise has not a clue what they are talking about. Why do you load the engine? The main reason is ring seal. From a metallurgical stand point both the rings and cylinder walls must “relax” and “conform” in order to properly mate and seal. If this is not done properly, quickly and in proper form the chances of a proper ring seal can be lost for ever. Your rings and cylinder wall wear could increase; the engine will use more oil and make less power. The worst the cylinder hone and free roundness of the ring are, the harder you better load the engine or you don’t have a chance in hell of getting the rings to seal. Some people are worried that they may break something. That may happen then again it may not. It may happen if you don’t use this break in procedure and then again it might not. For me, if its going to break its going to do it in the first thirty minutes of my taking position of the vehicle I assure you! I will find the weak link now, not later. The break in procedure here is the way ALL engines are being, and should be broke in.
When I say to make hard acceleration runs and load the engine I am not proposing you drop the clutch at 4200+rpm. The consequences of this could be a dropped drive shaft, input shaft, output shaft or the trans itself. Acceleration runs are not the same as drag racing the thing from stop light to stop light and acting like a 16 year old behind the wheel.. You must be in a rolling start and in the middle of low gear you floor the throttle and let the trans shift all the way to what ever speed you wish then let out of the throttle. DO NOT down shift, not ever, not even once during the course of these runs for at least 250-300miles. I put the car in neutral and release all loads after the run but that me. I don’t propose anyone doing this. Its dangerous and you could throw the thing into reverse if your not very careful. If you do not have professional driving experience, don’t do it. If you need more info go here

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm



Here is what I do and what I am doing as well as the results from doing so.

Just drove mine off the lot. Has 21 miles on it. The dealer REFUSED to fill it with 93 octane. I told him that it was no big deal just leaves what fuel is in it from the factory and I will fill it at a station across the street.

I had about 25 miles on it when I laid into it with all it had and man oh man what a fricken pooch! It would not even begin to bark the rear tire from a dead stop/full throttle up to 30-35miles and even BOGGED the engine from a dead start.

I have kept doing hard acceleration runs then shift neutral when it hit 90mph. Its got 50miles on it and you can feel it coming around with each additional run. I let it cool down for a couple hours before I took it out again.

After the cool down I went back out. 50miles on the odometer and acceleration runs then shift neutral when it hit 90mph. She is starting to get a little life in her. You can feel the difference about ever five runs or so it gets a little more power.

At about 60miles of acceleration runs to 90mph. It will spin the tires up to second and the ass end will shimmy around a little now. I will let it cool down over night.

80miles on the odometer. Acceleration runs then shift neutral when it hit 90mph. . I can feel it pulling better and better after each acceleration run. Its finally started coming into some power and I mean right fricken NOW! It still feels a little sluggish on the shifts though.

135 miles on the odometer. Its really coming around now! It really wants to fry the tires all the way through low gear but wont quite do it. The traction control and stabiletrac are off but it won’t light them up and accelerate through low gear like a 400hp car should. I will let it cool down over night and lay into it in the morning and see how it goes. I have also noticed that the rear end is starting to squat when I accelerate from a dead launch. Good weight transition for the street but feels a little weird.



165miles on odometer and after overnight cool down. ITS ALIVE !!!! She will fry the tires anytime, anywhere all the way through first, shifts at 6200rpm and turns the tire some in second. Now this is what I wanted and hoped I would wake up to! It flat ass rips up the street all the way through the gears. I have driven a host of low 13, high 12 second cars on the street and this thing will do a low 13 second quarter right now, hands down, no question, no problem. I have driven a plethora of 10 second and 11 second cars as well so I have a good indication of where this stands. I was nothing short of shocked at the power increase. I should say that I was nothing short of shocked at the total lack of power for the first 50 miles or so. It didn’t have 250hp when I drove it off the lot and now, it’s a total animal!! I am loving this!

I now am driving it like I stole it and loving every single second. It’s unbelievable how the throttle response and acceleration has come around. It’s a whole new animal and what a mean little nasty animal it is. You hit the throttle and the power is right there, right now. When you hit the throttle it growls and barks, spins the tires and just hauls ass. I now have a perma-grin that a plastic surgeon could not hope to erase! This is, by far the neatest street car I have ever owned.


http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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Old 08-30-2009, 07:42 AM   #2
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Great writeup! Thanks!
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Old 08-30-2009, 08:04 AM   #3
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I like that idea. Sounds like more fun and you clearly know more than I do!
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Old 08-30-2009, 09:46 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darin Morgan View Post
anyone who says otherwise has not a clue what they are talking about.
Yeah, those engineers at GM are full of **** man! What do they know?
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Old 08-30-2009, 10:00 AM   #5
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i read the linked article, says not to use synthetic in the break in, did you change the oil first? also if running the factory oil when are you doing the first oil change?

thanks

Last edited by saved_1992; 08-30-2009 at 10:16 AM.
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Old 08-30-2009, 07:50 PM   #6
Darin Morgan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSOOCH View Post
Yeah, those engineers at GM are full of **** man! What do they know?
Where did I mention the engineers who designed the engine? The engineers at GM (some I know personally) are highly educated, professional and highly skilled engine designers. I have enjoyed working with them on many occasions. They know what they are doing. To bad they don't write the fricken manual!
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VVT ACTIVE! Thanks to New Era Performance!



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Old 08-30-2009, 10:28 PM   #7
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Darin, I emailed you about 3 months ago and took your advise about the break in. WOW!!!! That's all I can say. My LS3 feels like it was putting down around 382 to the wheels when I was done with the break in. Now with a CAI, Ported TB, Custom Tune, and 3" exhaust it feels like over 400 easy. Thanks for the advise!
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Old 08-31-2009, 06:37 AM   #8
Darin Morgan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EAkrish View Post
Darin, I emailed you about 3 months ago and took your advise about the break in. WOW!!!! That's all I can say. My LS3 feels like it was putting down around 382 to the wheels when I was done with the break in. Now with a CAI, Ported TB, Custom Tune, and 3" exhaust it feels like over 400 easy. Thanks for the advise!
I have 500 miles on mine right now and I am all done with break in. I did do the fuse reset and found the off idle throttle response to be much better and the exhaust note changed completely but that's all it did. I was a little surprised at the exhaust note as it now has some reverberation and is much throatier. It has had 93 octane in it from the beginning and had a proper break in so the fuse reset shouldn't have done much at all and it didn't. I took it out to a nice black top that is blocked off to traffic due to construction. Found my own little 1/8 miles strip out in the country with a good shut down. Had fun for hours! I will say that the Torque management MUST GO! I about puke every time I feel the trans shift and slip all the power away. I have never had a quick/fast street car that shifted so poorly. Once that is gone it will accelerate even better.

I will install the New Era CAI this Tuesday and see what happens.I will port the throttle body after I have evaluated the CAI. Then its OFF WITH IT HEADS! Some decent high performance valve job work and contouring as well as a touch more compression should help matters don't you think? LOL I love EFI and the tun-ability it gives me but jumping through hoops with this factory shit is a pain in the ass sometimes but I have to realize that is designed more for drive-ability than all out power and acceleration.

I was also looking at how easy it is to pull the engine. WOW, two hours and I could have this out, on the engine stand and ready to strip all by myself. Its a very well laid out engine compartment.
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VVT ACTIVE! Thanks to New Era Performance!



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Old 08-31-2009, 04:03 PM   #9
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Broke my LS3 in pretty much like you stated, I've been saying the same things for years but there's always the guys that want to follow the OM. Most everything in this motor is roller so there's no cam break in to speak of, you're seating the rings and that's about it. Of course the 6 speed manual is now working smoother also. All the gears and third memeber also need to set in. The one problem I had was I picked the car up in the rain and couldn't really hammer it as much as I fully wanted to.

I agree, after about 500 miles and an oil change it was game over, let the beatings and burnouts begin. The engine has much more gettup and go than it did the first time I drove it on dry roads.

Yeah, GM can't hardly say in the OM "drive it hard" no one would know what that means so they play the conservative game. Some would blow their motors and others would wipe out having never owned a car with 400 or more HP.

I said this in another thread, I slapped my ZZ383 crate motor in my Nova and promptly performed the burnout break in. That thing has some torque! It's fine and runs really strong, stronger than it did when first installed.
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Old 08-31-2009, 06:57 PM   #10
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I've done the hard break in, and at 450 miles now it's really starting to come alive- it's amazing how much different it is now than when I picked it up. I'll change the oil next week at the 500 some odd mile mark.

I think break in is subjective- yes, the manual says drive it easy the first 1500 miles, but if you read through that manual you find a lot of things that are just written by lawyers.

Besides, I've done it like this on all mine, and never got less than 150,000 miles out of them without ever using any oil (at which point they were sold). My current 05 Colorado has 194,000 on it and doesn't burn a drop of oil between changes, and all I've ever done is change plugs every 80k miles.

I don't think either method is bad, it's what one is comfortable with. My opinion, the key to longevity is keeping the oil changed on a regular basis and not beating the hell out of it all the time....just on "special occasions".
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Old 08-31-2009, 07:17 PM   #11
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Awesome write up!
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Old 08-31-2009, 07:46 PM   #12
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MIne had 4 miles on it when my salesman said drive it like you stole it, and we laid down rubber on the exit road from the lot! Runs like a top and at 4K now I show it no more mercy than would be expected of a 426HP engine in a Camaro. I love it!
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Old 09-01-2009, 06:32 AM   #13
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Advice I trust

550mile now and after a computer reset the TMC (Torque Management Control) seems far less aggressive on the 1-2 2-3 shifts. Still wont bark the second gear shift like it should but with my HP tuners VCM suite software on the way I will be able to tune all this factory crap out of it and make it into a respectable street car. The guys at New Era Performance have been a great help. I should receive the New Era CAI as well as the tuner software wide band O2 in about a week. Then I really get to play!
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VVT ACTIVE! Thanks to New Era Performance!



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Old 09-04-2009, 09:38 AM   #14
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Ok i have been driving my LS3 for about a week know kinda babying it but shifting 2500 to 3000rpm and jummping on it once inwhile but never breaking loose the tires and never down shifting....550 miles on it so far but this long weekend I,m driving to vegas do you think this ok or the short runs while letting cool down is better?But pretty much what your saying is run it like you will allways be driving it. no babying it right.I thought at least 1500 miles before i really drop the hammer.And this drive to vegas is 325 miles should i drive it a differnt speeds or not even worry about it at this point??
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Old 09-04-2009, 09:45 AM   #15
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Darin, Did you change out the synthetic oil first or not?
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Old 09-04-2009, 09:51 AM   #16
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This was a nice read
with 3000 miles on a car can you still get benifit out of the "hard breakin" if done now? The car seems like it is coming to life but not like I imagined she would.
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Old 09-04-2009, 11:02 AM   #17
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Darin, sorry if I missed it...did you change to dino oil before going through the motions or stick with mobile one?
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Old 09-04-2009, 02:21 PM   #18
Darin Morgan
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screw it

Quote:
Originally Posted by Van View Post
Darin, sorry if I missed it...did you change to dino oil before going through the motions or stick with mobile one?
I just said screw it and left the Mobil1 in there. Looking at some Amsoil or Mobil1 Racing Syn for the oil change at 1000miles which should be by Monday. I have had the car for five days. With the new " New Era Performance" CAI and the throttle body I ported and installed the thing will flat rip though the gears now. The increase in low end torque showed up in my ass dyno up quite nice! I have had/installed many cold air intakes but this one is the first I have ever seen that delivered enough of a power gain to be really noticeable. I have American Racing complete exhaust system (headers, high flow CATs and Loudmouth II mufflers) on the way with a 160F thermo and HP tuners software. I plan on having a nice 480hp unit for now until I can getthe heads and manifold done.


The valve train is another matter. I will have to design some Titanium valves and re-design other components to work around this piece of shit VVT and AFM.
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2010 Camaro SS/RS IOM, 475rwhp 415ft/lbs Cam-232°/245° .612 .612 113LSA. Precision 3500 stall, New Era CAI. Reher Morrison Heads, Manifold and TB. Ferrea H-stems, dual springs, Ti-retainers. American Racing long tubes-Xpipe, High flow CATs, "S"type Borla's. 160F Thermo.
VVT ACTIVE! Thanks to New Era Performance!



Darin Morgan
-Induction R&D-EFI calibration
Reher-Morrison Racing Engines
http://www.rehermorrison.com/rmSale3.htm
Phone 817-467-7171
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Old 09-04-2009, 09:43 PM   #19
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Whats this do to and for mpg
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Old 09-05-2009, 01:40 AM   #20
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darin im buying my camaro out of state and have to drive it home, about 500 miles. is this going to screw up the engine? is there anything i can do to break it in better on the way home? should I drive a while and stay the night and start again? I'm kinda freaked out. i want the max performance and max life out of the engine. oh by the way it is the 6 cyl.
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Old 09-05-2009, 10:33 AM   #21
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nice to see someone who can see the engine for what it is,in that i mean how its put together,rings pistons,bearings and what not.i am in total agreement with you,egineers dont write the manual,lawyers do.Its refreshing to see someone look at this great car and not just see the car but see the moving parts inside the car and how they all work together,sometimes i sit here and read some of the off the wall things on these forums and say to myself oh boy,then there are posts i read like yours that give me faith that things will be ok...thanks
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Old 09-05-2009, 11:44 AM   #22
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I'd love to see the dyno sheet.
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Old 09-05-2009, 11:50 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darin Morgan View Post
550mile now and after a computer reset the TMC (Torque Management Control) seems far less aggressive on the 1-2 2-3 shifts. Still wont bark the second gear shift like it should but with my HP tuners VCM suite software on the way I will be able to tune all this factory crap out of it and make it into a respectable street car. The guys at New Era Performance have been a great help. I should receive the New Era CAI as well as the tuner software wide band O2 in about a week. Then I really get to play!
Darin, I'm a noob here so forgive my ignorance.....

is this "computer reset" something that can be done easily by a noob like me, or is this complicated, like remapping fuel injection etc. ?

Thanks,
Mac
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Old 09-05-2009, 07:12 PM   #24
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Based upon what I read above I'm going to do the following when I get my car. I used 80 mph because I'm afraid to get a ticket while doing this.

When would be a good time to change oil and filter? Also I would be doing this with an automatic.

Car should be fully warmed (~10 minutes) at idle before starting after cool down.

1) 0-50 miles : Dead Stop/Full Throttle / Shift to Neutral at 80 mph.
2) Let it cool down for 4 hours
3) 50-80 miles: Dead stop/Full Throttle/Shift to neutral at 80 mph
4) Let it cool down over night
5) 80 – 130 miles: Dead stop/Full throttle/shift to neutral at 80 mph
6) Let it cool down overnight
7) 130-180 miles: Dead stop/Full throttle/shift to neutral at 80 mph
8) Try to repeat until 500 miles.
9) Change oil/ oil filter.
10) Reset ECU with OBD II reader.

Last edited by tradosaurus; 09-06-2009 at 09:53 AM. Reason: better explanation
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Old 09-06-2009, 06:01 PM   #25
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This is the way i plan on doing my break in, heard from to many Master Engine Builders that this is the way to do it and it makes complete sense.

The thing i wana know (Darin) is how many time do you change the oil and oil filter between 0-500-1000 miles???
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