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Old 08-20-2015, 02:29 AM   #1
Rob_H
 
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"Check left rear turn signal lamp"

*

Last edited by Rob_H; 04-11-2016 at 01:02 AM.
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Old 08-20-2015, 09:36 AM   #2
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The reason the car alerts you that a bulb is out and causes it to blink faster is because the driver chips that power the bulbs have feedback circuits in them. If they do not see the required resistance (of an intact filament in a regular, incandescent bulb) it will signal that the bulb is out. This check is only performed by the BCM (Body Control Module) in the car while a turn signal is activated, not when the hazards or brakes are applied. It checks once per (turn signal) blink.

The reason you need load resistors if you are running LED lights is because, by nature, LED's have a much higher resistance than a regular bulb (they draw less current). The load resistor (one per bulb) is wired in parallel with the bulb to provide the extra resistance that the BCM is expecting to see. This tricks the BCM into thinking a regular bulb is attached and working. The load resistor just converts the power 100% into heat, instead of heat and light, like a bulb would.

If you have LED lights, and load resistors, and you're still getting the bulb-out message when your turn signals are active, then you have one of the following issues:

1. Your load resistor(s) are the wrong resistance (should be 6 ohms to mimic a tail light bulb. 50 watt resistors are large enough to safely dissipate all the heat.).
2. You don't have enough load resistors. (should have one 6ohm resistor per tail light bulb, i.e. 4 total)
3. You have a faulty load resistor.
4. You have a poor connection.

Good luck and I hope you get it figured out.

On a side note...
Be aware that the load resistors will get as hot as the bulbs would. For this reason, you should mount them away from any plastic. Ideally they would be mounted flat against the steel body or frame of the car, to help dissipate the heat. If you're sitting at a red light with your foot on the brake for 5 minutes, those resistors are pumping out tons of heat.
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Old 08-20-2015, 08:41 PM   #3
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Mine did that, and had a loose bulb. The wire to the bulb is short and the angle you have to put the bulb in the housing is weird, so the bulb would get cocked when reinstalling. This occurred right after the body shop repainted the rear bumper (scuffs). With a little install patience, it hasn't been an issue since.
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Old 08-22-2015, 11:01 PM   #4
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Should be back by the bulbs. Take the triangular covers off on either side of the trunk opening.

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Old 09-01-2015, 03:52 PM   #5
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just replace the bulb. the bulbs have numerous filaments in them, one of which is the brake light. if any of the filaments burns out, you get an error, and a fast interior blink that you are speaking of.
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Old 09-13-2015, 02:18 PM   #6
Rock-It Man
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Is this factory wiring?

There's a funky looking solder sleeve in the lower photo. It seems fried on the end with the black wire coming out.
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Old 09-18-2015, 08:49 AM   #7
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Again, you need one 6 ohm, 50 watt load resistor wired in parallel with every LED bulb.
4 LED tail light bulbs = 4 load resistors.
That's all there is to it.
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