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Old 11-06-2015, 09:59 AM   #1
EDFHOBBIES
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Buying an AGP today as soon as they open! Will continue to update as Build goes.

Going with BB or the EFR turbos! Don't have the money for an E85 setup right now (1300s and squash system).. So I'm hoping for 800 at the wheels with ID850s and Livernois dual pumps for now.

I have to be honest I'm scared I have never had a turbo car and I want to break the myth of to laggy no fun blah blah! but, this just make sense. I looked and looked and to make the power that the AGP kits do it would cost 2x as much for my long term goals. In my Case the Eforce, Innovation west has an 8 rib setup 10% over and 2.75, JRE has a dual rail fuel feed system, I would need to add an Afco heat exchanger, better/larger reservoir in the tank with some type of chiller, Meth and e85 to possibly sniff 800whp Then when I wanted to pass that I'd need NOS. All that sounds for an incredible story but, the AGP is the way to go.

Sorry my Eforce brothers.. That being said this is the best most reliable kit on the planet if you want to hang around at the 600 to 650 wheel mark then add meth to make 700 or so no problema! I have gone 80,000 miles not one hick up doesn't burn any oil and drives stock until you hit the gas.. So I definitely would recommend it to anyone that wants to just use stock internals and have more power than most.. You know 5 and 1/2 years ago there wasn't much info or kits or options so I went with it, at the time all I wanted was to beat a ZL1 and not have to wait 1 year more til they arrived.

Many Options out there!

It seems that all the PD blowers MAX out around 800whp and if they can make more it will set you back close to 1500 or 2k fr 10 ribbed system and better tensioners. Then lets say you can make more with one of these PD blowers you have to start buying larger hoods like the Copo or something to fit a 4.0L whipple or 4.2L belle.. SAVE THE HOODS FOR THE 60s and 70s!

Centri

I had one on my 97 LT4 Lingenfelter car a Vortec T-rim. I'd like my eforce way over that.. Same issues tensioners, Brackets wider pulleys.. Well at least they have there own dedicated belt. Ya they are capable of a lot of power but not my cup of tea.

I want to say thanks to Kevin at AGP he's been so patient for the past few months answering all my stupid questions while I have been waiting for a SB to be finished and gathering the funds.

I will keep you updated and try to gets some picks for the post!

I'll be calling u ASAP Kevin!
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Old 11-06-2015, 10:47 AM   #2
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Sounds like you did your research.

Word is AGP car went 9.2@156mph yesterday on pump gas. Not bad
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Old 11-06-2015, 01:10 PM   #3
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Kevin is very helpful, and also a couple members on this board are very quick and helpful as well to answer any questions you may have, so good luck on your install and on a side note all the components are top notch and fitment is excellent

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Old 11-06-2015, 01:19 PM   #4
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Spool up, my friend. Got turbos!
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Old 11-06-2015, 01:32 PM   #5
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Sorry but a vortec kb Paxton Maggie or turbo does no comparison to a procharger especially in reliability I have had all of the above ISO use a agp intercooler
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2010 transformer, vertical doors, 315nt05 rears, pedders supercar coilovers, hotchkis sway bars, links, adjustable, toe bars, bmr poly cradle bushings, 1le control arms, bmr tunnel brace, bmr subframe connectors. Cam 227/239-623-620@114 Mast medium bore heads, sw 1 7/8 headers, cat delete, x pipe, 3" dynomax true duals, fuel rails, fast 102 intake and NW 102 throttle body, catch can, rotofab cai, shifter, raptor custom shift light. Dss drive shaft, 3.91 gears. 492 rwhp
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Old 11-06-2015, 02:14 PM   #6
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Car that went 9.2@156 had a F1R, it died and killed belts. Swapped to turbos, gained 400+rwhp, and dropped 2 seconds or more off his 1/4 mile time, and now zero issues. Procharger make a decent head unit, but reliable is not something I would use to comment on them. Goto yellow bullet or some other boards and look at thread after thread of failed prochargers.
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Old 11-06-2015, 03:56 PM   #7
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It depends on size and install also mine have been mfg demo cars built by mfg. except for turbo
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2010 transformer, vertical doors, 315nt05 rears, pedders supercar coilovers, hotchkis sway bars, links, adjustable, toe bars, bmr poly cradle bushings, 1le control arms, bmr tunnel brace, bmr subframe connectors. Cam 227/239-623-620@114 Mast medium bore heads, sw 1 7/8 headers, cat delete, x pipe, 3" dynomax true duals, fuel rails, fast 102 intake and NW 102 throttle body, catch can, rotofab cai, shifter, raptor custom shift light. Dss drive shaft, 3.91 gears. 492 rwhp
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Old 11-06-2015, 05:41 PM   #8
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Did you leave a number or order with Ben? It was a hectic week and I didn't hear from you.
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Old 11-06-2015, 08:50 PM   #9
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Yes a girl took my info sorry can't remember her first name. Look forward to placing order.
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Old 11-07-2015, 09:37 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES View Post
Going with BB or the EFR turbos! Don't have the money for an E85 setup right now (1300s and squash system).. So I'm hoping for 800 at the wheels with ID850s and Livernois dual pumps for now.

I have to be honest I'm scared I have never had a turbo car and I want to break the myth of to laggy no fun blah blah! but, this just make sense. I looked and looked and to make the power that the AGP kits do it would cost 2x as much for my long term goals. In my Case the Eforce, Innovation west has an 8 rib setup 10% over and 2.75, JRE has a dual rail fuel feed system, I would need to add an Afco heat exchanger, better/larger reservoir in the tank with some type of chiller, Meth and e85 to possibly sniff 800whp Then when I wanted to pass that I'd need NOS. All that sounds for an incredible story but, the AGP is the way to go.

Sorry my Eforce brothers.. That being said this is the best most reliable kit on the planet if you want to hang around at the 600 to 650 wheel mark then add meth to make 700 or so no problema! I have gone 80,000 miles not one hick up doesn't burn any oil and drives stock until you hit the gas.. So I definitely would recommend it to anyone that wants to just use stock internals and have more power than most.. You know 5 and 1/2 years ago there wasn't much info or kits or options so I went with it, at the time all I wanted was to beat a ZL1 and not have to wait 1 year more til they arrived.

Many Options out there!

It seems that all the PD blowers MAX out around 800whp and if they can make more it will set you back close to 1500 or 2k fr 10 ribbed system and better tensioners. Then lets say you can make more with one of these PD blowers you have to start buying larger hoods like the Copo or something to fit a 4.0L whipple or 4.2L belle.. SAVE THE HOODS FOR THE 60s and 70s!

Centri

I had one on my 97 LT4 Lingenfelter car a Vortec T-rim. I'd like my eforce way over that.. Same issues tensioners, Brackets wider pulleys.. Well at least they have there own dedicated belt. Ya they are capable of a lot of power but not my cup of tea.

I want to say thanks to Kevin at AGP he's been so patient for the past few months answering all my stupid questions while I have been waiting for a SB to be finished and gathering the funds.

I will keep you updated and try to gets some picks for the post!

I'll be calling u ASAP Kevin!
f yeah!
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Old 11-07-2015, 09:48 AM   #11
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We like the AGP kits and recently finished our Z28 twin turbo with an AGP kit.

You'll find Kevin very knowledgeable and helpful.
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Old 11-07-2015, 01:23 PM   #12
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We like the AGP kits and recently finished our Z28 twin turbo with an AGP kit.

You'll find Kevin very knowledgeable and helpful.

Thanks. That's means a lot coming from you guys. The Z28 turned out great, would be cool to see it on some better octane, E85 or racegas.

That new employee you guys hired who finished it up and tuned it, he's sharp. Keep him around
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Old 11-08-2015, 11:23 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES View Post
Yes a girl took my info sorry can't remember her first name. Look forward to placing order.
There is the start of your LAG.
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Old 11-11-2015, 11:27 AM   #14
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416 is finished

Went to the HPmotorsports last night to see my LME 416 its been done for a bit but, Brian was at SEMA all last week. It turns out a 2016 Camaro made a pit stop at Rudy's BBQ last night about a block away so we "Htown Camaro club" could view the car. Snapped a pic of the LT1 and engine bay for yall!


I am now deciding on a CAM for the build. I talked to BTR and they seem to think that the POS displacement stage 3 blower cam I have will work ok..

What are some of yall thoughts?

BTR Stage IV Turbo cam?
Tick Performance Twin Turbo Cam?
JRE rough idle Turbo Cam?
Custom Ground cam from Steve at LethalRacing?

I happened across an article from a well know racer and shop "Kenny Duttweiler If I read this right since the turbos are more efficient the grinds now can be more like a NA cam?

If that's the case I would love to do a NightFury cam..


ARTICLE INFO:

The scene is the local cruise hangout. The hood is open on a young car crafter’s black-primer Pro Street Mustang, and a small group eavesdrops on a deluge of overlapping technical discussions regarding turbos, boost, camshafts, and a dizzying array of other power-related topics. The Mustang driver innocently asks for feedback on his cam selection and is quickly barraged with several contradictory recommendations, each of which are vehemently defended as gospel. The young driver is soon overwhelmed and quickly closes the hood of his car and leaves while a pair of turbo true believers square off in a technical fencing match that looks as if it will devolve into a jihad-like religious riot complete with willing martyrs.
While this scenario might be fictional, the debate is real enough and rages across the Internet in forums and tech chat rooms dedicated to anything related to boost. The problem with opinions is that everybody has one, with few rooted in real-world experience or established combustion theory. So we decided to seek out those who talk less and race more. Our participants include Kenny Duttweiler, who began experimenting with and racing turbo Buick V6 engines virtually from the moment those black sedans hit the showroom. He now builds the maxi-turbo’d, mini displacement, 299ci small-block Chevy powering the George Poteet-driven Speed Liner Bonneville streamliner that blitzed the Salt with a 436-mph exit speed last year. We also talked to street and dragstrip turbo expert Kurt Urban, who lets his 100,000-mile turbocharged street truck speak for his knowledge of how to use boost to become an Urban guerrilla. Then we quizzed our favorite rocket scientist, Comp Cams’ lobe designer Billy Godbold, who lent his insight into eloquently combining cam timing with boost pressure and not getting squeezed in the process.
Turbo Cam Basics
The one thing that all three of our noted sources emphasized is that the knowledge base established from turbochargers designed 10 or 15 years ago is antiquated when applied to the current crop of high-efficiency turbochargers—unless you’re trying to get by on old, cheap turbos. “In the old days it was typical to see 1.5 to 2:1 backpressure ratios,” Duttweiler says. “Today the backpressure is actually less than the boost pressure.” The ratio Duttweiler is talking about is the relationship of exhaust backpressure to inlet boost pressure. Exhaust gas backpressure is naturally created when the hot gas exiting the exhaust ports arrives at the turbocharger’s turbine wheel. The exhaust gas “stacks up” between the exhaust port and the turbine wheel, creating pressure as it would with any restriction. All internal combustion engines perform best when tuned with a certain amount of camshaft overlap in which both the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time. If the exhaust backpressure is greater than the inlet pressure, the exhaust will push back into the cylinder and (given enough time) up into the inlet manifold. Exhaust gas doesn’t burn a second time, so it works just like an emissions-era exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system, reducing power, except it’s happening at wide-open throttle (WOT). Because of the high backpressure ratio, older turbos required an earlier-closing exhaust valve, which was most easily achieved with a wider lobe-separation angle (LSA). This could be where the now-common wide-lobe-separation-angle theory propagated. According to Duttweiler, today’s more efficient, larger turbos reduce that backpressure, which minimizes the power-robbing effect of exhaust dilution. That means the LSA can be tightened, which is contrary to the contention that all turbo cams must have wider 112- to 114-degree LSAs. With newer turbos, the reduced backpressure also means the exhaust valve can be opened sooner and held open longer, which is generally accepted as beneficial to high-rpm power production, just like on a normally aspirated engine. According to Duttweiler, to make good power, turbo engine efficiency depends more on low exhaust backpressure than tricks with the cam.
Duttweiler also mentioned that attempting to build a turbocharged engine with a set LSA (such as 112 or 114 degrees) can lead you astray. He mentioned some work he did way back in the early Buick Turbo V6 days while racing these engines in NHRA Stock Eliminator. Stock class rules required the intake and exhaust lift and duration specs to remain stock, so to improve power, he tightened the LSA on these engines to 109 degrees to help the Buick’s really small cam improve power. The engine responded by building boost much quicker. “When you spread the lobe-separation angle way out, the engine gets lazy,” Duttweiler says. As an example of a good V6 engine, Duttweiler says he built a V6 turbo Buick with a 215-degree-at-0.050 intake lobe camshaft that made 900 lb-ft of torque and 580 hp and idled at 16 inches of manifold vacuum. The concept of lobe-separation angle and duration is addressed more fully in the accompanying sidebar “Overlap Chronicles.”
Duttweiler says this idea reinforces the concept that it’s not necessary to use radical lobe designs with turbo engines. “A turbo allows you to run a milder lobe and valvespring package that’s much easier on the engine.” An example of this is a slew of very reliable turbocharged Bonneville engines built by several turbo engine builders, notably Duttweiler and turbo engine guru Mike Lefevers. Often these engines will make multiple 5-mile-long sustained WOT passes and require little more than pulling a spark plug for maintenance. A properly designed valvetrain and a less aggressive lobe design can virtually eliminate valvetrain problems such as broken springs, bent pushrods, and mangled rockers. There are caveats however. Duttweiler and Urban both emphasize that attempting to open the exhaust valve too early can cause bent pushrods. This is mainly due to the surface area of the exhaust valve attempting to open against high cylinder pressures. “You will need bigger pushrods,” Duttweiler warns. “I see more bad things happen on the exhaust side trying to open against cylinder pressure.”




So after reading this article my cam has a LSA 120 +5 after the guys at BTR said it work fine but then looking at some of the turbo grinds from some well know shops it looks like the LSA is close to 114 on these guys. I also called Comp cams and gave them the spec of the Turbo Cam from BTR and they said it was money and right where it needs to be..



BTW EFR Turbos ordered!
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