12-11-2009, 02:34 PM | #1 |
400HP used to be enough..
Drives: 2010 2SS rs manual Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central NC
Posts: 772
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Pfadt spring install how to with pics
I thought I'd do a write up on replacing the stock springs with the new Pfadt springs and show everyone contemplating doing this themselves what is involved. You will need a way to raise the car and a floor jack or other adjustable support. A strut spring compressor is needed as well as a torque wrench with angle gauge, assorted metric wrenches and sockets (10mm, 15mm, 18mm, 21mm, 24mm) and torx bits (T30, T50), inverted torx (E10). This is the spring compressor I used.
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12-11-2009, 02:36 PM | #2 |
Camaro SL,UTs
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS #16429 Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: South Jordan, UT
Posts: 7,358
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I'm listening...
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12-11-2009, 02:41 PM | #3 |
400HP used to be enough..
Drives: 2010 2SS rs manual Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central NC
Posts: 772
|
First, raise the car and remove the wheels. Remove the stabilizer shaft link (15mm and E10 socket). Remove the wheel speed sensor from the front of the strut.You do not have to remove it entirely, just slide it out of the bracket. You can tie it back out of the way, I just used the stabilizer bar link to hold it out of the way. Remove the front disc brake hose from the strut (10mm).
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12-11-2009, 02:44 PM | #4 |
400HP used to be enough..
Drives: 2010 2SS rs manual Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central NC
Posts: 772
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Next, you need to mark or paint a reference mark of the strut on the steering knuckle so you can assemble it back in the same location. I used a sharpie marker and traced around it. Support the steering knuckle with a floor jack or adjustable support.
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Last edited by FrankT; 12-11-2009 at 06:42 PM. |
12-11-2009, 02:50 PM | #5 |
400HP used to be enough..
Drives: 2010 2SS rs manual Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central NC
Posts: 772
|
Remove the front strut nuts and bolts (24mm, but a 15/16 works also). Remove the front suspension nut and washer (T50 torx and 24mm). This is under the hood, unscrew the dust cap from the top of the strut first. Then, remove the strut.
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12-11-2009, 03:16 PM | #6 |
400HP used to be enough..
Drives: 2010 2SS rs manual Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central NC
Posts: 772
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Now comes the fun part. Place the strut/spring assy on the workbench (a strut vise would be optimal, but I put some shop rags in my bench vise and clamped it loosely). Position the strut spring compressor and compress the spring until it moves freely on the strut. Remove the top strut nut (24mm and T50 torx), mount retainer, strut mount, and strut insulator from the strut. Remove the spring and relax the tension on the spring until you can remove the compressor from the spring.
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12-11-2009, 03:26 PM | #7 |
400HP used to be enough..
Drives: 2010 2SS rs manual Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central NC
Posts: 772
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Remove the plastic dust cover/boot to reveal the strut bumper. You need to trim one inch off of this (measured from the bottom) and reuse the top portion of the bumper. Reinstall the dust cover/boot. Then, install the new Pfadt spring (you don't need the spring compressor) along with the components previously removed. Make certain the end of the spring is indexed in the lower spring isolator properly. Tighten the front suspension strut nut. The torque spec is 52 lb ft, but I just tightened it as tight as I could.
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12-11-2009, 03:38 PM | #8 |
400HP used to be enough..
Drives: 2010 2SS rs manual Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central NC
Posts: 772
|
Now, reinstall the strut assembly into the vehicle. Install the strut bolts, but don't tighten completely until you align the strut with the alignment mark previously made. Install the front suspension mounting plate and strut nut. Tighten the front strut bolts and nuts to 59 lb ft plus an additional 180 degrees. I used new bolts and nuts. Tighten the top nut to 52 lb ft. I needed a wrench like the one in the picture to be able to tighten the nut. Screw on the dust cover, and reinstall the wheel speed sensor cable into its bracket, front brake hose and stabilizer shaft link.
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Last edited by FrankT; 12-11-2009 at 04:14 PM. |
12-11-2009, 03:46 PM | #9 |
400HP used to be enough..
Drives: 2010 2SS rs manual Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central NC
Posts: 772
|
Now on to the rear! Support the knuckle with a floor jack or suitable support. Remove the stabilizer shaft link from the lower control arm (T30 and 15mm). Remove the lower control arm bolt from the knuckle (24mm or 15/16). Remove the lower rear shock absorber and nut. Remove the four upper shock absorber bolts (15mm). Remove the shock assembly from the vehicle.
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12-11-2009, 03:49 PM | #10 |
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looking good
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12-11-2009, 04:10 PM | #11 |
400HP used to be enough..
Drives: 2010 2SS rs manual Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central NC
Posts: 772
|
Again, place the spring/shock assy on your work surface. Install the spring compressor and compress the spring just enough so the spring moves freely on the shock. Loosen the top nut (18mm and T40). Remove the washers and isolators and remove the spring. Remove the compressor from the spring. Again as on the front, remove the dust boot/cover from the shock and the jounce bumper. Trim one inch measured from the bottom of the bumper and reinstall the top portion of the bumper onto the shock shaft. Reinstall the dust boot/cover and the new Pfadt spring. Again, you won't need the spring compressor. Reassemble the shock assembly silver washer goes on top of the dust boot, then the mount, and gold washer on top, then the nut. Install into the vehicle. Install the four upper bolts and tighten (15mm) to 43 lb ft. Install the lower control arm bolt and torque to 30 lb ft plus 120 degrees. Install the lower shock absorber bolt and tighten to 59 lb ft, plus an additional 120 degrees. Once again, I used new bolts. Install the stabilizer shaft link.
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Last edited by FrankT; 12-12-2009 at 03:28 PM. |
12-11-2009, 04:12 PM | #12 |
400HP used to be enough..
Drives: 2010 2SS rs manual Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central NC
Posts: 772
|
An alignment will probably be required after doing this. I've probably left something out on this, so post any questions and I'll update as necessary.
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12-11-2009, 04:46 PM | #13 |
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awsome man thanks!!! looks easy enough
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12-11-2009, 05:57 PM | #14 |
Drives: 2011 SIM 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Iowa City
Posts: 384
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thanks!! i'll hopefully get this done during the winter!
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