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Old 04-25-2010, 07:26 PM   #1
azamazonqueen
 
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2010 Camaro V6 Oil and Oil Filter Change

So I just did my first oil change this past weekend did this writeup since I had to piece it together for my V6 since it is NOT the same set up as the V8. If anyone has any questions, feel free to PM me and if I miss anything, just let me know and I'll add it to the writeup. I take no responsibility for anyone damaging their vehicle. If you are uncomfortable performing something like this, do yourself a favor and take it to someone who is. Special thanks to adub4185 for posting the V8 DIY oil change, bub for the filter pics so I knew I wasn't going crazy, and my dad for helping his daughter keep her car in shape (we rotated the tires too)!

What you need:
15 mm socket (for the oil plug)
24 mm or 15/16 in socket if you don't have it (for oil filter)
Extension
Wrench
Torque wrench
6 quarts of 5w-30 (I use fully synthetic)
Oil Filter (ACDelco PF2129, K&N HP-7003, Wix 57090, Fram CH8765 or look up in index most places carry--thanks kb9wte)
Oil Tub
Towels
Funnel
Car ramps or jack and stands
Blocks (for rear tires)
  • Warm the car up to get the oil flowing. Be careful, if you do it to long its going to burn when you start working. I usually do a quick turn of the neighborhood to line it up with the car ramps.
  • Lift the front of the car. We have car ramps for the front wheels. Set the emergency brake and block the rear wheels.
  • Pop the hood. Open up the oil cap. Dip stick of you want.

  • Time to go under!!! You will find the oil plug on the passenger side of the pan actually on the side. Mine had the yellow mark on it.

  • Place the oil tub under. Have it over to the passenger side tire a little since when it comes out it projects a bit (a lot this second time around!). Use the 15mm socket and loosen.
  • Let the oil drain. Clean off the plug with a clean towel.
  • Now onto the filter while the pan is emptying (you can do it this way, or close it up and then move to the filter--your choice!). This creeped me out at first when I bought it. I had a 99 Camaro and expected the filter to be in a housing—not anymore. Also, it is NOT under the car. Thanks to bub for posting pics so I knew where I was looking. The housing is on the drivers side next to the engine cover.

  • Us the 24mm socket and extension to take off the top of the housing. Oil filter should come off with it.
  • Pop the filter off the housing top and let both drain. Clean off the housing too and all threads.
  • Use some oil to lub up the oil ring around the upper housing piece. Pop the new filter into the top piece.
  • Start it off by hand. Tighten to 25 Newton meters (it even says that on the top of the housing) with the torque wrench (or 18.5 ft-lbs--thanks Texhawk)


  • Back Underneath! Once oil is down to a drip, wipe off the area and replace the plug using your hand (avoid stripping!). I tightened it as far as I could then use the wrench. Adub4185 says to torque the plug to 18 lb-ft at least for the V8 (this is now confirm by the Camaro Bible--HELM). (if you know the specification for the V6 let me know!)
  • Get all your new oil together and a funnel. The tube is curved (see pic below) so take it easy when pouring the oil in since the funnel probably will not fit perfectly.
  • put on and tighten the oil cap and place the dipstick back in if you removed it. Close the hood, remove the blocks, lower the car, put all your tools away and your done! Start your car up and check for leaks. If there are any, kill the engine and tighten up anything lose. Make sure to dispose of the used oil properly, Auto Zone is a fav of mine.

Last edited by azamazonqueen; 09-25-2010 at 06:56 PM. Reason: did my second change and tweaked a bit.
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Old 04-25-2010, 09:05 PM   #2
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Great job!! Glad to see that my DIY helped you out.
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Old 04-25-2010, 09:36 PM   #3
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Great job...I did my first oil change today also. Great minds think alike
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Old 04-25-2010, 09:59 PM   #4
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On cartridge filters open the housing up as well because it does hold some oil in it. When u drain you'll be getting some more out. Just FYI
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Old 04-26-2010, 12:28 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LS/V6 View Post
On cartridge filters open the housing up as well because it does hold some oil in it. When u drain you'll be getting some more out. Just FYI
thanks for the tip! We were worried about spilling etc since it was our first time with a cartridge filter. Couldn't believe how cheap the filter was at first since the owners manual gives zero info on the filter which is a shame since it is a very simple and basic service. Just like how they tell you where the battery is
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Old 04-26-2010, 12:48 PM   #6
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For the people like me that do not think in newton-meters, 25 N-M is about 18.5 ft-lbs.

Also, I used to use Mobil 1, but changed to Valvoline synpower because it has 8x to 9x better results on the standard wear test. There are several good synthetic oils available now that meet or exceed Mobil 1 in wear protection and performance, including Castrol EDGE. I am running a test on my Z06 now to see if I get less lead wear in my oil analysis over Mobil 1.
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Old 04-26-2010, 02:31 PM   #7
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You should be able to fill two quarts at a time... through the oil filter housing and through the oil cap....?

Or is that bad? Maybe I'm just lazy.
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Old 06-13-2010, 11:13 PM   #8
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Nice write up, just finished my first ever oil change and everything went great
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Old 06-14-2010, 06:07 AM   #9
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... has anyone been able to get a verifed torque figure for the V6 oil pan drain plug? As mentioned earlier in the thread, the V8's figure is 18 lb-ft... and I seem to recall a figure of 15 lb-ft for the V6 (please don't quote me on that), but that was listed as "unverified"...
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Old 06-14-2010, 07:31 AM   #10
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This is Excellent!
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Old 06-15-2010, 03:22 AM   #11
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maybe this is a dumb question but what kind of filter does the v6 use?
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Old 06-15-2010, 03:39 AM   #12
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this one is added to the DIY guide list.
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Old 06-19-2010, 03:04 PM   #13
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Here are some filter part numbers (for the 3.6L V6):

ACDelco PF2129
K&N HP-7003
Wix 57090
Fram CH8765
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Old 06-19-2010, 03:26 PM   #14
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Thanks, Nice writeup !

According to my HELM Manual the Oil Drain Plug torque spec for the 3.6L is 18 lb-ft. (page 9-729 of Book 2).

Hope this helps.

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Old 06-20-2010, 02:52 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kb9wte View Post
Here are some filter part numbers (for the 3.6L V6):

ACDelco PF2129
K&N HP-7003
Wix 57090
Fram CH8765
Thanks for the info!
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Old 06-20-2010, 06:11 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadoChaser View Post
Thanks, Nice writeup !

According to my HELM Manual the Oil Drain Plug torque spec for the 3.6L is 18 lb-ft. (page 9-729 of Book 2).

Hope this helps.

ShadoChaser
... Thank you !!
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Old 06-27-2010, 03:31 PM   #17
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YOUR MY HERO! Hahaha I work on my cars but this is my first new car and didnt want to tamper with it so im coming right back here when I have to changeit again
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Old 07-03-2010, 06:31 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIDNIGHTANGEL View Post
YOUR MY HERO! Hahaha I work on my cars but this is my first new car and didnt want to tamper with it so im coming right back here when I have to changeit again
Haha. Nice--it is my first new one too. But if a 24 year old chick can do it...

Anyways--I updated the original post with some parts info and the confirmed oil plug torque. Enjoy--I probably will pull this up when I do mine again since you get more than that standard 3,000
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Old 07-14-2010, 09:39 PM   #19
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Thanks for the guide! I just changed my oil myself for the first time and your guide was awesome! Thank you!

And thanks Adub4185, ShadoChaser and TexHawk for the torque settings!
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Old 07-22-2010, 07:30 AM   #20
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good stuff! I Have gotten lazy and will just pay some1 to do it for me though :P
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Old 07-22-2010, 09:07 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azamazonqueen View Post
So I just did my first oil change this past weekend did this writeup since I had to piece it together for my V6 since it is NOT the same set up as the V8. If anyone has any questions, feel free to PM me and if I miss anything, just let me know and I'll add it to the writeup. I take no responsibility for anyone damaging their vehicle. If you are uncomfortable performing something like this, do yourself a favor and take it to someone who is. Special thanks to adub4185 for posting the V8 DIY oil change, bub for the filter pics so I knew I wasn't going crazy, and my dad for helping his daughter keep her car in shape (we rotated the tires too)!

What you need:
15 mm socket (for the oil plug)
15/16 in socket (didn’t have a 23mm) (for oil filter)
Extension
Wrench
Torque wrench
6 quarts of 5w-30 (I use fully synthetic)
Oil Filter (ACDelco PF2129, K&N HP-7003, Wix 57090, Fram CH8765 or look up in index most places carry--thanks kb9wte)
Oil Tub
Towels
Funnel
Car ramps or jack and stands
Blocks (for rear tires)
  • Warm the car up to get the oil flowing. Be careful, if you do it to long its going to burn when you start working. I usually do a quick turn of the neighborhood to line it up with the car ramps.
  • Lift the front of the car. We have car ramps for the front wheels. Set the emergency brake and block the rear wheels.
  • Pop the hood. Open up the oil cap. Dip stick of you want.

  • Time to go under!!! You will find the oil plug on the passenger side of the pan actually on the side. Mine had the yellow mark on it.

  • Place the oil tub under. Have it over to the passenger side tire a little since when it comes out it projects a bit. Use the 15mm socket and loosen.
  • Let the oil drain. Clean off the plug with a clean towel.
  • Once it is down to a drip, wipe off the area and replace the plug using your hand (avoid stripping!). I tightened it as far as I could then use the wrench. Adub4185 says to torque the plug to 18 lb-ft at least for the V8 (this is now confirm by the Camaro Bible--HELM). (if you know the specification for the V6 let me know!)
  • Now onto the filter. This creeped me out at first when I bought it. I had a 99 Camaro and expected the filter to be in a housing—not anymore. Also, it is NOT under the car. Thanks to bub for posting pics so I knew where I was looking. The housing is on the drivers side next to the engine cover.

  • Us the 15/16 socket and extension to take off the top of the housing. Oil filter should come off with it.
  • Pop the filter off the housing top and let both drain. Clean off the housing too and all threads.
  • Use some oil to lub up the oil ring around the upper housing piece. Pop the new filter into the top piece.
  • Start it off by hand. Tighten to 25 Newton meters (it even says that on the top of the housing) with the torque wrench (or 18.5 ft-lbs--thanks Texhawk)

  • Get all your new oil together and a funnel. The tube is curved (see pic below) so take it easy when pouring the oil in since the funnel probably will not fit perfectly.
  • put on and tighten the oil cap and place the dipstick back in if you removed it. Close the hood, remove the blocks, lower the car, put all your tools away and your done! Start your car up and check for leaks. If there are any, kill the engine and tighten up anything lose. Make sure to dispose of the used oil properly, Auto Zone is a fav of mine.
I don't agree with this write up. You should be doing the upper filter first so that if any dirty oil drains into the pan while removing the filter, it will be removed when you pull the pan plug.
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Old 07-22-2010, 12:30 PM   #22
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minor detail - still a very good write up
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Old 07-22-2010, 01:35 PM   #23
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Old 07-22-2010, 01:39 PM   #24
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Should also replace the "O" ring on the filter housing when changing the oil. I use the NAPA GOLD #7090 filter, usually there's a new O ring in the box with the filter. (another minor detail, but the O ring could leak if damaged)
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Old 07-23-2010, 01:20 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azamazonqueen View Post
Haha. Nice--it is my first new one too. But if a 24 year old chick can do it...

Anyways--I updated the original post with some parts info and the confirmed oil plug torque. Enjoy--I probably will pull this up when I do mine again since you get more than that standard 3,000
$15.95 at a local chevy dealer!..(hot damn!) why mess with it?
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