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Old 05-29-2025, 08:07 PM   #7
TheBrightSide
 
Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro 2SS coupe (MT)
Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: Sacramento, CA - USA
Posts: 371
Quote:
Originally Posted by FasNuf View Post
Hi, Just me shamelessly self promoting. This will show you how to do the flanges.


https://youtu.be/2iqekORDMu8?si=SsbPNcRypqInisnh
I’m gonna go ahead and assume that without cutting the front subframe crossmember and having flanges welding in, it will be a whole ton harder to replace the oil pan? I don’t even know where to begin, to find someone who would be willing to do this for me… I sure as hell don’t trust myself to cut it even remotely close to what the plans/blueprints/template designs show.

I also figured I would have the harmonic balancer/crank pulley off, as well as the front timing cover; so would it be ideal to replace parts like the oil galley/diverter barbell plug “dog bone”? I was also planning to replace the oil pump o-rings (there are 2?), as well as install an oil pump “neck brace” or whatever. Looks like some people needed the oil pump pickup tube brace, to help it be re-installed properly.

I don’t think I’m missing anything, and I would mainly also need an engine hoist/lift (“cherry picker”), and a universal engine valley cover lift plate? I just need to remove the side engine mount bolts, and then start jacking up the engine hoist, to pull up the engine? Will it stop after a certain point, when jacking up the engine lift?

And regarding the oil pan gaskets, the four corners need to have extra gasket maker/RTV put on those areas, to prevent leaks? I’m not exactly sure, but I recall most guides on replacing the oil pan gasket, telling people to add gasket maker to those four corners, which are prone to leaking (due to the gasket design?).
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