LS3/L99: Replacing rear sump oil pan

[TheBrightSide]

Do I have to absolutely remove the crank pulley/harmonic balancer and get to removing the front timing cover, in order to remove the oil pump, all for the engine oil pan gasket to be replaced? I figured it would be a ideal situation, since I’d be in there, and I can also install a Melling high pressure oil pump, as well as a new oil pickup tube o-ring and support brace.

There’s no obviously clear videos of 5th gen Camaro V8 oil pan replacement/servicing videos and tutorials. Plus, I figured with the way the front cross member on the front subframe is set up, it seems like the crank pulley would ideally have to come out, unless I wanted to somehow take out the steering rack and power steering lines, to make room in my 2010 2SS coupe engine bay (with hydraulic PS system).

[CamaroCracka]

The oil pump installs over the crank, so while you might be able to finagle the pick up off, you will never get the pump off without removing the timing cover.

Also, the pan won't come down with the crossmember in place. A lot guys cut the crossmember and weld in flanges from a member named CFD. Definitely beats pulling the motor.

[J35Y2]

Originally Posted by CamaroCracka

The oil pump installs over the crank, so while you might be able to finagle the pick up off, you will never get the pump off without removing the timing cover.

Also, the pan won't come down with the crossmember in place. A lot guys cut the crossmember and weld in flanges from a member named CFD. Definitely beats pulling the motor.

I saw that a while ago, but figured I didn't wanna tinker with the crossmember on the front subframe. I'm guessing I'm screwed then..? I've just been running high mileage engine oil, as well as adding a quart of high mileage oil stabilizer, and some oil leak stop formula (seal swell formula).

It's a slow leak, and it's been slowing down recently since I just did a fresh oil change. I run 0w-40 weight oil, which I guess didn't necessarily make it worse, but I also don't notice the leak being any better with 5w-30, while the car is off or been running.

If I clean the general oil pan leak area (and some of the under-carriage), and drive it for about a solid week, I'll see most of the slow leak coming from like 3 or 4 of the oil pan bolts. I already tried tightening them, and it probably helped a tiny bit, but not much..

I figured having someone to modify and weld the front crossmember, seems like it'd be cheaper and more of a sane option than pulling the entire engine, obviously. Finding a person who will want to do it, might be tricky though... for liability reasons.

[CamaroCracka]

Originally Posted by J35Y2

I saw that a while ago, but figured I didn't wanna tinker with the crossmember on the front subframe. I'm guessing I'm screwed then..? I've just been running high mileage engine oil, as well as adding a quart of high mileage oil stabilizer, and some oil leak stop formula (seal swell formula).

It's a slow leak, and it's been slowing down recently since I just did a fresh oil change. I run 0w-40 weight oil, which I guess didn't necessarily make it worse, but I also don't notice the leak being any better with 5w-30, while the car is off or been running.

If I clean the general oil pan leak area (and some of the under-carriage), and drive it for about a solid week, I'll see most of the slow leak coming from like 3 or 4 of the oil pan bolts. I already tried tightening them, and it probably helped a tiny bit, but not much..

I figured having someone to modify and weld the front crossmember, seems like it'd be cheaper and more of a sane option than pulling the entire engine, obviously. Finding a person who will want to do it, might be tricky though... for liability reasons.

If you have any welding experience at all, it's actually a pretty easy mod. The hardest part is you can't really get a good view of the top with the engine in, but you can get a good weld on the inside part of the flange to the top. I used a Lincoln AC225, which worked but a mig welder would have been much better. I've since acquired a Lincoln 180HD from Marketplace. You can find some pretty cheap welders on there used and there is always the YesWelder option.

[TheBrightSide]

Originally Posted by CamaroCracka

If you have any welding experience at all, it's actually a pretty easy mod. The hardest part is you can't really get a good view of the top with the engine in, but you can get a good weld on the inside part of the flange to the top. I used a Lincoln AC225, which worked but a mig welder would have been much better. I've since acquired a Lincoln 180HD from Marketplace. You can find some pretty cheap welders on there used and there is always the YesWelder option.

I’m guessing screwed is the answer, if your engine oil pan is leaking then… Damn, that really sucks. I’ve been running a bunch of high mileage oil and stabilizer, with oil leak stop formulas that swell seals. Most of that stuff probably helped barely, but I guess it’s better than nothing.

I guess it could be worse…. I’ll just make sure to clean up if possible, whenever I’m underneath the car. My AN fittings for the thermostatic oil feed, have been seeping oil a teeny bit, so I tightened them down a lot; all while trying not to over-tighten, since everything’s made of aluminum! 😬

The only other mess I’ve been having to clean or see as an eyesore, is either clutch dust coming out from the bell housing vents (by the clutch/flywheel area), and the little gaps between the bell housing and engine, where brake fluid trickles down through, when you go to bleed the clutch slave cylinder..

[FasNuf]

Hi, Just me shamelessly self promoting. This will show you how to do the flanges.


https://youtu.be/2iqekORDMu8?si=SsbPNcRypqInisnh

[TheBrightSide]

Originally Posted by FasNuf

Hi, Just me shamelessly self promoting. This will show you how to do the flanges.


https://youtu.be/2iqekORDMu8?si=SsbPNcRypqInisnh

I’m gonna go ahead and assume that without cutting the front subframe crossmember and having flanges welding in, it will be a whole ton harder to replace the oil pan? I don’t even know where to begin, to find someone who would be willing to do this for me… I sure as hell don’t trust myself to cut it even remotely close to what the plans/blueprints/template designs show.

I also figured I would have the harmonic balancer/crank pulley off, as well as the front timing cover; so would it be ideal to replace parts like the oil galley/diverter barbell plug “dog bone”? I was also planning to replace the oil pump o-rings (there are 2?), as well as install an oil pump “neck brace” or whatever. Looks like some people needed the oil pump pickup tube brace, to help it be re-installed properly.

I don’t think I’m missing anything, and I would mainly also need an engine hoist/lift (“cherry picker”), and a universal engine valley cover lift plate? I just need to remove the side engine mount bolts, and then start jacking up the engine hoist, to pull up the engine? Will it stop after a certain point, when jacking up the engine lift?

And regarding the oil pan gaskets, the four corners need to have extra gasket maker/RTV put on those areas, to prevent leaks? I’m not exactly sure, but I recall most guides on replacing the oil pan gasket, telling people to add gasket maker to those four corners, which are prone to leaking (due to the gasket design?).