Quote:
Originally Posted by fz4k98
What are the steps for used when doing a bleed? I noticed it is easy to reintroduce air into the system if it is not done correctly. I have a remote bleed line on mine and perform bleeds by myself.
My steps ...
Make sure reservoir is full
place cover back on reservoir
Pump pedal several times and hold to floor while cracking bleed open slightly
hold pedal to floor and close bleed
repeat process until i have good fluid flow and good pedal.
I ran into issues when i let reservoir go to low and also by not holding pedal to floor before closing valve.
I also noticed it works better by just cracking bleed valve to ensure slow pressure release and also to close valve just before it stops flowing fluid, not after it stops flowing fluid.
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Forgot to update this post... My clutch slave cylinder is toast. I guess it decided to bite the dust yesterday, or right as I somehow un-did the bleeder valve. What luck, huh? I even used my friend's boroscope camera, with a light, to go inside of the bell housing and inspect things. Turns out that there with a teeny bit of brake fluid seeping out of the green housing and the black-colored seal thing.
Not only that, but I removed the bleeder valve entirely by hand (was confident I could thread it back in), and used the camera to see how much clutch/brake fluid was coming out. Barely any fluid was being sent down, even though the clutch master cylinder seemed to be working totally fine this time (unlike other times).
The amount of fluid that was being sent out of the slave cylinder was barely enough to even flow through the bleeder valve, even when I hooked up a hand vacuum pump to it. I even filmed a video of my remote clutch fluid/master cylinder reservoir, to see if the bore was traveling; and indeed, there was a decent amount of clutch fluid traveling, but obviously not as much as normal.
I typically bleed all by myself, with no fancy tools; usually just a block of wood in between the clutch pedal and driver seat, and a brake bleeder bottle and hose (to catch fluid from the bleed valve). I usually don't even bother bench bleeding either, as I typically just leave the bleed valve open (same on brake calipers/lines), and then I pump the pedal until all fluid flows freely and evenly.
Guess I'm gonna check to see what needs to be taken off, before the trans gets dropped. It's been 10+ years since I've dropped a T-56 on a Pontiac GTO or C5 Corvette, so there's a few differences with this 5th gen Camaro SS. I plan I on getting a billet release bearing support, as well as a remote clutch bleed line. Aside from that, I'm gonna get either an OEM GM clutch slave cylinder, or at least an FTE or Luk brand one. Not sure if I trust Exedy, but it's up there with Luk and FTE, GM, Sachs.