[darkrider01]

Originally Posted by crashprime

I have a non-BA system I am upgrading and if I can get flat EQ response over the full volume range, out of a $100 swap-a-roo, something like the AudioStream LC7i or LCQ-1 sounds a whole lot less appealing. My amplifiers do crazy amounts of custom EQ setting, but when the signal attenuates, it shifts the volume knob over to the amps instead of using the headunit which isn't ideal. I was considering the AudioStream stuff ... but like I said, I'd love some proof of the BA systems flat EQ claims. I'm sure you'd make your $100 off me if it turned out to be tested and proven.

PS: Your links do prove the EQ settings are not flat coming out of a non-BA system, but in the post you linked there is this:

"Both units also have a "LOUD" circuit that bumps up low end with rise in volume control."

And there is no mention of attenuation, just the generic EQ curve.

edit: I am not sure you ever made the claim about attenuation. It's a problem I've been trying to overcome, and I might have injected my own thoughts into your post. So I guess the question is, does the BA vs Non-BA actually do different things when changing the volume? An EQ curve can be fixed, but a dynamic EQ curve seems like a nightmare.

I'm pretty sure the attenuation your are referring to is how the "LOUDNESS" circuit works on this head unit. It works in the classic sense at low volume and then rolls off at the upper levels.

The EQ curve is not the only issue with the stock radios and amps. Two other very important settings/functions were addressed in the post I referenced. Those 2 were the "remote turn-on mod" and the "turn down "chime" output" changes. The warning chime is generated by the head unit in these cars. The frequency is somewhere between 750 and 1000Hz. If you add an aftermarket EQ or turn the front amp gains over minimum, you're going to get a chime loud enough to have your neighbors checking for their keys. The remote turn-on mod is most probably a fix for the turn-off pop/click/thump that is referenced in my signature.

I was able to deal with the chime volume, but the turn-off pop I had through all the amps I tried was enough to have me gladly pay $800+ for my Pioneer head unit swap.

On a side note, I had no issues with the sound quality of the stock head unit. I thought the actual sound I had with my stock Boston head unit with an old Alpine 3527S pushing the stock Boston speakers was pretty fantastic (lacking bass, but that's what subs are for).