UPDATE
The good:- I finally ordered the trailer! It should be ready to be picked up in 2-3 weeks. It will improve on may aspects of my former trailer. I've learned a lot from my first trailer experience.
- 4" dropped axles + tilt bed + 10"x30" approach plates ($60 extra) should make loading cars much easier. I'm looking forward to seeing if I'll need my race ramps at all. I'm tired of carrying all 4 of 76" race ramps around

- The new trailer comes with 5" frame instead of 4"; it should not flex as much, if at all. It also comes with cross-members every 18" instead of every 24" ($60 extra).
- I asked the manufacturer to delete the tires ($-232), and bought my own, got the wheel/tire combo sent from TireRack: Ultra brand aluminum 15"x6" 6-lug wheels rated for 2860 lbs @ 18lbs each + Goodyear Wrangler HT LT215/75/R15 light truck tires, rated for 2094 lbs of load, good for up to 99 MPH. The cheap no-brand ST tires that normally come with the trailers are rated for 65 MPH top speed, and 1860 lbs load rating. ST tires are known to become more likely to fail after only 2-3 years of use, so they will be safer in the long term use, too.
- The lighter tires + wheels will also help my SUV during acceleration. The tires are also good for light snow; something I might go through as I pass through the Snoqualmie Pass on my way to Oregon.
- The remaining options I also took are spare tire mount ($45), dual tilt bed dampeners ($175), D-rings on corners (4x$10), 5K front jack ($45; comes with 2K; way too low), hinged fender.
The bad:
What is this you ask? Yes, it's my oil cooler adapter port's thread, only outside the car! It turns out it was already screwed up, so it didn't take much to completely destroy it as I tried to torque it.
Anyway, apparently I need one of these kits, so I ordered one with 1-day shipping:
http://www.amazon.com/Great-Neck-OEM...+thread+kit+m6
These new threads are SS, and should be even stronger than original. Once I re-thread, I might even dare torque them to 15 lb.ft; we'll see.
One question is the second bolt hole. It's not stripped, but the bolt does not go in smooth, either, so it's on its way out. I think I should re-thread it, too. Should I?