'14 AGM 1SS/1LE Track build [COTW 11/17/14]

[X25]

UPDATE

The good:

• I finally ordered the trailer! It should be ready to be picked up in 2-3 weeks. It will improve on may aspects of my former trailer. I've learned a lot from my first trailer experience.
• 4" dropped axles + tilt bed + 10"x30" approach plates ($60 extra) should make loading cars much easier. I'm looking forward to seeing if I'll need my race ramps at all. I'm tired of carrying all 4 of 76" race ramps around
• The new trailer comes with 5" frame instead of 4"; it should not flex as much, if at all. It also comes with cross-members every 18" instead of every 24" ($60 extra).
• I asked the manufacturer to delete the tires ($-232), and bought my own, got the wheel/tire combo sent from TireRack: Ultra brand aluminum 15"x6" 6-lug wheels rated for 2860 lbs @ 18lbs each + Goodyear Wrangler HT LT215/75/R15 light truck tires, rated for 2094 lbs of load, good for up to 99 MPH. The cheap no-brand ST tires that normally come with the trailers are rated for 65 MPH top speed, and 1860 lbs load rating. ST tires are known to become more likely to fail after only 2-3 years of use, so they will be safer in the long term use, too.
• The lighter tires + wheels will also help my SUV during acceleration. The tires are also good for light snow; something I might go through as I pass through the Snoqualmie Pass on my way to Oregon.
• The remaining options I also took are spare tire mount ($45), dual tilt bed dampeners ($175), D-rings on corners (4x$10), 5K front jack ($45; comes with 2K; way too low), hinged fender.

The bad:
What is this you ask? Yes, it's my oil cooler adapter port's thread, only outside the car! It turns out it was already screwed up, so it didn't take much to completely destroy it as I tried to torque it.


Anyway, apparently I need one of these kits, so I ordered one with 1-day shipping:
http://www.amazon.com/Great-Neck-OEM...+thread+kit+m6


These new threads are SS, and should be even stronger than original. Once I re-thread, I might even dare torque them to 15 lb.ft; we'll see.

One question is the second bolt hole. It's not stripped, but the bolt does not go in smooth, either, so it's on its way out. I think I should re-thread it, too. Should I?

[Stephen12ZL1]

Originally Posted by X25

UPDATE

The good:

• I finally ordered the trailer! It should be ready to be picked up in 2-3 weeks. It will improve on may aspects of my former trailer. I've learned a lot from my first trailer experience.
• 4" dropped axles + tilt bed + 10"x30" approach plates ($60 extra) should make loading cars much easier. I'm looking forward to seeing if I'll need my race ramps at all. I'm tired of carrying all 4 of 76" race ramps around
• The new trailer comes with 5" frame instead of 4"; it should not flex as much, if at all. It also comes with cross-members every 18" instead of every 24" ($60 extra).
• I asked the manufacturer to delete the tires ($-232), and bought my own, got the wheel/tire combo sent from TireRack: Ultra brand aluminum 15"x6" 6-lug wheels rated for 2860 lbs @ 18lbs each + Goodyear Wrangler HT LT215/75/R15 light truck tires, rated for 2094 lbs of load, good for up to 99 MPH. The cheap no-brand ST tires that normally come with the trailers are rated for 65 MPH top speed, and 1860 lbs load rating. ST tires are known to become more likely to fail after only 2-3 years of use, so they will be safer in the long term use, too.
• The lighter tires + wheels will also help my SUV during acceleration. The tires are also good for light snow; something I might go through as I pass through the Snoqualmie Pass on my way to Oregon.
• The remaining options I also took are spare tire mount ($45), dual tilt bed dampeners ($175), D-rings on corners (4x$10), 5K front jack ($45; comes with 2K; way too low), hinged fender.

The bad:
What is this you ask? Yes, it's my oil cooler adapter port's thread, only outside the car! It turns out it was already screwed up, so it didn't take much to completely destroy it as I tried to torque it.


Anyway, apparently I need one of these kits, so I ordered one with 1-day shipping:
http://www.amazon.com/Great-Neck-OEM...+thread+kit+m6


These new threads are SS, and should be even stronger than original. Once I re-thread, I might even dare torque them to 15 lb.ft; we'll see.

One question is the second bolt hole. It's not stripped, but the bolt does not go in smooth, either, so it's on its way out. I think I should re-thread it, too. Should I?

I would run a thread chaser to clean up the threads and only use the "heli-coil" type rethreader if absolutely necessary. After the threads are chased, you should be fine as the first one or two threads are the only ones likely to be slightly tweaked.

[X25]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

I would run a thread chaser to clean up the threads and only use the "heli-coil" type rethreader if absolutely necessary. After the threads are chased, you should be fine as the first one or two threads are the only ones likely to be slightly tweaked.

OK you seem to know what you're talking about (I certainly don't), so I cancelled my order for the Great Neck brand, and ordered the Helicoil brand. Thanks for the recommendation! On one of the ports, the thread is completely gone, and it's actually pretty smooth. Hoping I have enough clearance to work on (since subframe/frame limits my access), it should be relatively easy to re-thread it. I will leave the other side as is, and torque to 10 lb.ft. If it can hit that torque, I will leave it. If not, I will re-thread it, too. Fun times!

[White_SS/RS]

Ive dont tons of heli-coil installs. Couple tips; Chamfer the hole a little after you drill it makes starting the tap and insert easier. Make sure you drill and tap deep enough for the entire thread insert to go slightly below flush and also allow you to break off the tab, they have different lenght inserts if needed. Use a punch slightly smaller in diameter than the thread to break it off the tab, too small and it will bend or deflect your blow. Its a huge pain if you find you need to drill deeper once you've tapped the hole. They are super strong though and I put them in anything that requires the bolt removed all the time, even in steel and iron parts, they are just much more durable than the base metals and they spread the load over greater area. I would also just put one in the other hole since its most likely damaged and your doing the other one anyway.

[X25]

Originally Posted by White_SS/RS

Ive dont tons of heli-coil installs. Couple tips; Chamfer the hole a little after you drill it makes starting the tap and insert easier. Make sure you drill and tap deep enough for the entire thread insert to go slightly below flush and also allow you to break off the tab, they have different lenght inserts if needed. Use a punch slightly smaller in diameter than the thread to break it off the tab, too small and it will bend or deflect your blow. Its a huge pain if you find you need to drill deeper once you've tapped the hole. They are super strong though and I put them in anything that requires the bolt removed all the time, even in steel and iron parts, they are just much more durable than the base metals and they spread the load over greater area. I would also just put one in the other hole since its most likely damaged and your doing the other one anyway.

OK thank you very much for the recommendations! Too bad, my first one will be an important one. My main concern is that I might not have enough space to drill exactly vertical. I ordered an angle drill as well, and if I still don't have enough space, I am thinking about splitting the drill-bit into two pieces to gain some more space. Yes, it would be nice if we lived closer

Since this thread is stronger, could I do 15 lb.ft (instead of 9 lb.ft)with the helicoil thread in place? It would be nice.

[White_SS/RS]

Originally Posted by X25

OK thank you very much for the recommendations! Too bad, my first one will be an important one. My main concern is that I might not have enough space to drill exactly vertical. I ordered an angle drill as well, and if I still don't have enough space, I am thinking about splitting the drill-bit into two pieces to gain some more space. Yes, it would be nice if we lived closer

Since this thread is stronger, could I do 15 lb.ft (instead of 9 lb.ft)with the helicoil thread in place? It would be nice.

I bet you'll be ok with the angle drill. Just go slow and you'll be good. I'm pretty sure the tread will hold 15lbs. Using a dial type torque wrench will offer a little more control for those little bolts. They don't click and have smooth operation. Plus you can tell if the bolt or thread is yielding because the readout stalls. For something that little I would get one that does in/lbs (12"lbs in one foot lb.) since torque wrenches are less accurate at its lower settings.

[X25]

Thanks all for all the excellent advice, guys. I took my time, measured everything, made sure I had correct length of new thread, and used right tools. It all seems to have worked out!

New threads!


I moved on to changing spark plugs. The spark plug from the cylinder closest to the driver had wet threads, but the remaining 7 plugs were all dry, and the tips look good, too.


I am almost done, but got tired after hunting for a header bolt that fell through for an hour : P

Camaro surgery list:

• Eaton helical type differential
• Z/28 diff cooler
• Switch back to OEM engine mounts
• Replacing damaged brake caliper
• Tick remote bleeder
• Exhaust R&R
• Diff fluid: Redline 75W90 NS
• Brake / clutch bleeding
• Oil cooler adapter thread fix
• Engine oil: Mobil1 5W-30 ESP
• NGX TR5IX Spark plugs
  
• Headers R&R
  
• Transmission fluid: Amsoil Signature ATF
• Cold air intake cleaning
• Schroth Rallye 3 removal
• Harness bar and plates install
• Schroth Profi II

[Stephen12ZL1]

your repair looks good. I have experience only because I worked as a mechanic between college years. I then went to dental school, and the rest is history. The good thing about aluminum is that it is easy to drill and retap because it is softer than steel. Good job and keep the posts coming.

[X25]

Thanks for the help. I was very worried about the drilling part, but the original hole guides you anyway, which made it much easier.

I'm actually considering if I should get the ZL1 brakes with the stripped bleeder posted in member for sale section. I could fix it and give it to my brother for him to use on his 1LE : )

There's a track day on 11/14. If it doesn't rain, I can attend to try the new diff with MPSC2 tires. I can't wait to try them out.

[Stephen12ZL1]

Originally Posted by X25

Thanks for the help. I was very worried about the drilling part, but the original hole guides you anyway, which made it much easier.

I'm actually considering if I should get the ZL1 brakes with the stripped bleeder posted in member for sale section. I could fix it and give it to my brother for him to use on his 1LE : )

There's a track day on 11/14. If it doesn't rain, I can attend to try the new diff with MPSC2 tires. I can't wait to try them out.

ZL1 brakes are definitely a step up and you can't go wrong there. Keep us posted after your track event!

[X25]

I finally finished the car, started tests tonight, and ran into an issue.

The oil cooler adapter:

• Michael @ ImprovedRacing stated the torque spec is 8.8 lb.ft and it should not leak, and not strip if I keep it within 10 lb.ft. I did about 9-10 lb.ft.
  • Result: oil puddle under the oil cooler adapter, leaking at the rate a 1-2 drops/sec.
• I loosened the header again, this time torqued it to 16 lb.ft, and tried again.
  • Result: oil buildup under the oil cooler adapter, but at much slower rate. I had about 5-10 drops-worth of it during 5-10 minutes of run.

Looks like a little more torque will seal it, but I'm not sure what would be safe. What do you guys think? Torque spec for an M6 bolt is 8.8 lb.ft, and the spec jumps to 15 lb.ft for an M8 bolt. The new thread's diameter is larger than the original M6 since I had to drill with a 1/4" drill bit before even re-threading. The helicoil's steel threads should also spread the load better on the aluminum threads. I'm thinking about trying 21 lb.ft. If I screw this one up, too, I might be in trouble.

Header's M8 bolts are torqued to 18 lb.ft, and I easily hit 20 lb. ft. or so during tightening. Does anyone have any experience on how strong the helicoil threads are? Would it hold 21 lb.ft? : ))

[X25]

Found some data (for Mopar cars; shouldn't matter):
http://www.allpar.com/fix/body/fasteners.html

The SS coil from helicoil (that threads to the aluminum block) is 3/8 - 16. So, assuming the coil acting like a bolt, finding the torque values for 3/8 - 16 bolt might be a good guidance.

SAE Grade 5
Size Cast Iron Aluminum
Dia - tpi N•m Ft-lb N•m Ft-lb
3/8 - 16 40 30 25 20

SAE Grade 8
Size Cast Iron Aluminum
Dia - tpi N•m Ft-lb N•m Ft-lb
3/8 - 16 55 40 40 30

Well, judging from this table, 21 lb.ft should be OK.

[Stephen12ZL1]

I wouldn't go past the yield strength of the bolt. Is your gasket o.k. in that location? That fitting area shouldn't require a huge amount of torque if the embossed gasket seal is in good condition. Be careful! Is it possible the oil cooler fitting surface isn't true? How about doubling gaskets to ensure you are getting a tight seal? Did you consider putting a small washer under each bolt head to ensure you aren't bottoming out in the hole before peak torque is reached?

[X25]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

I wouldn't go past the yield strength of the bolt. Is your gasket o.k. in that location? That fitting area shouldn't require a huge amount of torque if the embossed gasket seal is in good condition. Be careful!

The O-rings are new, and the bolts are grade 12.9, so they'll hold; I'm only worried about the threads of the hole. It's currently at 16 lb.ft of torque with little leak. I'll try 21 lb.ft for sure, but İ wonder if I should try 25 lb.ft right away (which looks safe for 3/8-16, assuming helicoil is as strong as a grade 8 SAE bolt). For every trial, I have to loosen the header and remove the exhaust clamps, or else I don't have clearance for the torque wrench. It's very annoying.