Line locks

[chevyss]

Just a word to the wise. When installing a line lock make sure you get all the air out of the lines. This will cause a brake system to fail. I do believe that I had this happen to mine and this is what caused all my problems. Sorry for the confusion. I was very upset because my system did not work so I first blamed SJM's kit. I was wrong.

[Merc]

I got a TCI and it leaked big time at the fittings. Going to try it one more time now that TCI supplied some more fittings.

[danhr]

what went wrong w/ it?

i had a sjm line lock on my 4th gen and it performed flawlessly.....

[chevyss]

It kept allowing air to get in the system. At first they thought it was the master cylinder but I took it in on Monday to have service on it and the tech said that I had no brakes again. I just had it removed and I'm going to be shipping it back to them. It's just been a hassle every since we installed it and I can't stand it when something doesn't work right. A very expensive deal all the way around. Plus I have to buy a new cover for the console. I'm going to talk to them and see if they will at least make good on part of the cost.

[SJM]

I'm sorry to hear that you have had difficulties with your brakes but I would be hesitant to place blame on a line lock kit before researching more. I find it slanderous as to your methods. We've been manufacturing kits for over a decade and not once have I ever heard of a situation as you are describing. It actually does not make sense and I'll briefly explain below.

If air was entering your brake-line system as it returned to atmospheric pressure as you described, you would have been leaking fluid every time you applied your brakes. This would be evident as over 1000psi of pressure is applied within the typical brake-line system.

If your brake-line system was open, via leaking fitting, loose fitting, poor seal…etc., you would have seen the fluid at some point. You would have also noticed your master reservoir fluid-level dropping. If you were not leaking fluid, you braking system is closed. Air was not entering your brake lines.

...If air was entering your brake-line system, it could be due to a loose fitting, damaged line or other component in your brake-line system. This could be from a fitting not sealing properly, a loose bleeder valve or other areas where your brake system fluid flows through. Once again, if there is no fluid loss, the brake-line system is not open.

What Mercuryman96 has described would be more of a common problem (regarding his setup leaking). He could exhibit some of the problems you were having if he drove his car as his system WAS open and air would be entering the system (as well as evident fluid leaking out).

I take offense to your comments regarding warranty and technical assistance. I took the time to look up your account of which the initial purchase was December 2009 of which we log transactions and comments each time you call.

Warranty: During your install, you called stated the solenoid was not operational, upon this discussion within 24 business hours new solenoid components was sent to you at no cost (For the record, your returned components was tested and was in perfect working order…which is also noted in your account).
Technical service: I think you’ll find it rare that one is able to speak to a Mechanical Engineer who is extremely knowledgeable in the products produced in house. Customer that I have had the opportunity to discuss concerns with have rarely left slighted. I’ll reference one post from the other day. He was so impressed that he apparently took the time to write a very nice comment: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/suspen...xperiance.html

It sounds like you have other issues with your braking system. It could be your power booster among many other factors.

I wish you luck with your car. I hope in the future, before considering making accusations towards a company or its product, you consider discussions with the manufacture or reseller first.

Steve
Mechanical Engineer
SJM Mfg. Inc.

[Merc]

Here is my issue with the TCI line lock. By the way I choose the TCI because it mounted under the master cylinder and was a bit more discrete then other offerings. As you notice in the pic's there is a brass fitting that goes into the master cylinder and the other end goes into selinoid.

The leak occurs between the brake line flare nut and the brass fitting. TCI has sent me another brake line and two more brass fittings. The hope is to turn one of the flare nuts into a tap to cut the threads deeper into the brass fitting. The flare nut bottoms out in the brass fiiting before the flare seals. I am betting another quarter turn and it will seal.

[SRT10KLLR]

Been running the SJM since February with absolutely no problems. I did change the momentary switch so I did not have to keep my finger on the button while doing a burnout. I used the Nitrous Outlet console switch panel and had the bottle heater button name changed to Lock and used it as my switch.

[SJM]

mercuryman96, I believe I spoke with you for a while regarding your issue a long time ago (even though you did not have our kit). It was a pleasure speaking with you. We had a choice of where to locate our kits, using the test vehicle brought in it was felt based on engine compartment add-ons, our location was better suited for space and heat concerns.

SRT10kllr, your results are typical. We have many customers to this day running our kits back from ~1995 without issues. Thank you for your comments...and your video. It is very informative to others who may not even know what a line lock is used for.

As with the posters results (chevyss), let it be known, it is physically impossible to suck air into the brake system without having brake fluid leak out when the system is pressurized.

Based on chevyss's discussion stating there were no leaks, my feelings are the brake line system may have never been bled correctly whereas air was trapped in the lines. The brake symptoms the poster has seen would be typical if air was not bled out of the lines.

If my beliefs are true, it is unfortunate when the installer ("shop installer,not chevyss) blames their own actions (or lack of) on another companies product. As a result of the shops actions, we have a customer who is upset, spent quite a bit of money between the install and our product and now is left with a sour taste in their mouth. It's unfortunate that we apparently got the short end of the stick.

If there was actually a malfunction or problem with one of our kits, as always, we would attempt to help and, rectify the problem.

I personally welcome customers questions or concerns whatever they may be. As always, I will try my best to help them with their questions.

Steve
Mechanical Engineer
SJM Mfg Inc.

[Merc]

No problem Steve. For me it was strictly a cosmetic issue that made me choose TCI. I have yet to try installing the line lock a second time to see if I can seal it up. TCI claimed that I was the only customer that experienced the issue I am having. To the point they were questioning my mechanical abilities.

Still have Bogarts on my list. Might have to buy them just to get some fittings.

[jrpxxii]

Ive run the SJM for over a year and no issues.

[GTAHVIT]

Moved to the correct forum.

[Merc]

[SSE 4 2SS]

SJM,

I am looking at the "line-lock" "roll stop" kits and I saw Merc's comment about the location of his install.

I am installing the TTI/Granatelli Twin Turbo kit and the Turbo's hang off the exhaust manifold.

My concern is where the solenoid mounts. I don't want to install anything closer to the heat source of the turbo's.

Can you post or provide some pictures of your installed 2010 Camaro kit.

I am also interested in knowing what the tube size is for the brake lines. I've heard of there being some weird configurations, metric vs SAE, etc...Are the fittings NPT, JIC, or one of the other myriad arrangements out there. Being in my line of work, I have access to a few vendors that provide pretty much anything I need as far as fittings go... If I know what the ports coming out of the master cylinder and going into the solenoid are, including shoulder depth, I can fab my own fittings from Swagelock, (my preference) or from Parker and run my own tubing..

I guess this being the case, I could pretty much mount it anywhere I wanted.

Thanks... and I hope to be dealing with you soon

[mikepage0007]

thought i would bump back...talk to steve and am gonna install a sjm kit...i feel very good about purchase and steve was very helpful and professional answering questions and getting kit ordered...i will post a small clip of interior workings of kit and a nice burnout...might be more than one burnout..lol..