DIY: Halo as DRL on Eagle Eyes

[MagnumForceGB]

EDIT:

I have made schematics for all the types of headlights I could think of. Unfortunately, I will not be able to update this DIY for a while since I need to wait to spend the money for building a new harness.

Schematiics:

Where the yellow and purple meet to make red, that is the wires coming together to form 1 wire.

The main harness is the same for all headlights. The headlight harness is different for each headlight. If you want the fog lights on as DRL's, hook up the diodes like it says on post #2. They are 6 amp diode so they can handle halogen or LED. I think HIDS use more then 6 amps though for fogs. Will update when I can.

/END EDIT

I currently have a setup that will run the Halo's as my DRL's while the lighting switch is in Auto position. I will attempt to explain all the steps taken, but when I got to working on the car I didn't take any pictures since I was in a working zone of mind. I got the parking light and headlight signal from the drivers side. This is my first DIY, so I will be making improvements to it as I get better pictures.

You will need the following:
1x Single Pull, Single Throw Mechanical Relay
1x Single Pull, Double Throw Mechanical Relay
2x Mechanical Relay Sockets
1x Solid State Relay DC-DC with at least 1 amp @ 80C
1x In-Line Fuse Holder with 40 amp fuse
1x DRL Module to eliminate the PWM signal. You can use either a capacitor, or a plug-n-play module from AAC or another company.
2x 1N4148 Diodes. Radio shack sells these in a pack.
10 Gauge wire, black and red
2x Female H9 Connector (not needed if using HIDS)
1x Male H9 Connector
9005/9006 connectors (2 female, 2 male if not using HIDS, 2 female if using HIDS)

If you want your fog lights to come on with your Halo's as DRL's, you will also need 4x 6 amp barrel diodes. Radio Shack will have these as well.

First, you will need to wire the 1N4148 Diodes to be freewheel diodes to protect the circuits. If you used Relay Sockets, determine which wire will be Pin 85. Strip a small part of the wire near the socket, then wrap the diode around it with the bar facing the wire. Do the same with the wire that is Pin 86, but with the other side of the diode.



Do this for both relays. This will prevent an Inductive Feedback from destroying the Solid State Relay and other components in your car. When you are done, you can solder the diodes in place, then place electrical tape over both of the points. I decided not to use heat shrink, didn't want to destroy the diode by burning it.



Designate which relay socket will hold the relay connected to the battery. Cut the wire from Pin 87a and make sure it will not contact anything. Take the inline fuse holder and place a ring terminal to connect to the battery post on 1 end. On the other end, use 40 inches of 10 gauge red wire to connect to Pin 30 of the relay.

If you used a DRL module, connect the positive wire of the corrected signal to Pin 85, the negative to Pin 86. Pin 87 of this relay will be the hot wire when the headlight is on whether its in DRL or Headlight mode.



For the 2nd mechanical relay, take the wire from Pin 87 of the first relay, and wire it to Pin 30 of the 2nd relay. Now take the solid state relay, the negative of the load side will connect to Pin 85 of the 2nd relay. Pin 86 will go to the ground. Pin 87a is now your DRL, Pin 87 is your Headlights now.



Now we need to get power from the headlight, whether its in high beam or low beam. Inside the eagle eye there is a connector that connects to the H9 bulb with 3 wires going to it. 1 blue, 2 black wires, the side with the blue wire is your headlight wire. Hook the male H9 connector to this and run it ouside of the bulb through the rubber back side (some cutting may be required if you didn't do this for HIDS). The wire that is on the same side as the blue wire will be your headlight wire, connect it to the Solid State Relay and to the positive side of your DRL module (I just hooked up the positive side of the DRL module to the terminal of the SSR).



Now tap in the parking light on the drivers side. I soldered 20 gauge green wire to this, then run the wire to the positive terminal of the input on the solid state relay.

All wiring is done except for the HIDS/Headlight and DRL. It takes 60 inches of wire to run from the drivers side to the passenger side in a clean manner, so you will need 2x 60 inches of red wire, 1x 60 inches of black. The black wire will be the ground. Use 10 gauge for the HID wire, if you are going to use halogen fogs as DRL's also, use 10 gauge for the DRL wire also. If not, you may use a smaller wire. Hook both halos up to the DRL wire, red to the DRL wire, black to the ground. For the Headlight wire, wire a 9005/9006 female connector with the positive side on the right if you are looking at the locking clip. If you are using HIDS, these will connect to your ballasts. If you are using Halogens, take the 9005/9006 male connectors and wire them to the H9 female connectors. Now run you can plug them into the H9 bulbs, and have the option of upgrading to HIDS later on.

Don't forget to run all the grounds to a grounding point. I took about 12 inches of black wire, put a ring terminal and grounded it to the point near the headlight. Ran this wire to the negative input terminal of the solid state relay, and hooked up all my grounds to this point.

Here is an explanation of what is happening:
When the DRL is on, a PWM signal is going through the low beam wire of the headlights. This is going to the DRL module, being turned into a constant signal, and then activating the first relay. The first relay is transfering power the 2nd relay now. Since the 2nd relay coil is not energized, the power is going to Pin 87a, the DRL wire.

When Parking lights are on, the Solid State Relay is on, but since no headlight power is going through, everything stays the same.

When headlights are on, your parking lights are on also. The headlight signal is going through the DRL module, and sending power to the 2nd relay. The Solid State Relay is active with the parking lights, so it is allowing power from the headlight to go to the coil of the 2nd relay, and sending power to Pin 87, the Headlight wire.

Why not hook up a Mechanical relay to the parking light? I tried this and within 1 minute, the parking lights will shut off due to the power being drawn from it (Car must be running). A solid state relay only draws a few milliamps, so the circuit doesn't even know its there.

[MagnumForceGB]

How to add Fogs as DRL's:

This requires the passenger side fender wheel well liner off. Once its off, you will see the harness that connects to the front bumper. Disconnect that wire and open up the harness. There will be 6 wire. On the back of the connector, find the 2 purple wires that are in the middle. These 2 are your fog lights. You will be cutting these wires, and placing a 6 amp diode in between each wire so DRL power doesn't flow back to the BCM (bar facing to the connector). Also take some 20 gauge wire, and solder it to the side after the diode.



At the end of the 2 wires that branch off from the fog lights, put 2 more diodes, the bar facing the other diodes. This prevents power from the fog lights to getting to the halo's. Have these 2 diodes on the other side of the bar connected to gether to make 1 wire. This wire will connect to the DRl wire on the passenger side.



Tape everything back up. I left the diodes explsed since I don't know how much heat they will generate. The 6 amps seems to be running halogen bulbs fine right now. I am upgrading to 5202 plasma fog lights soon.

Here are pictures of the final product on the drivers side:


DRL's on:


Parking Lights On:


Headlights On:


Headlights + Fog lights On:


I believe this will also work for a Non-RS car putting on RS headlights, with some modifications to the headlight wiring. I will try to take some better pictures when I have my fender wells off when installing my new fog lights. If you have done a HID relay harness before, this should be easy to do.

The Solid State Relay needs to be DC input, DC output. It took me 3 months to get mine since they were on back order. There are no SPDT solid state relays that I have seen, so there is no getting around the 3 relay method.

[MagnumForceGB]

Here is my crappy drawing of what the circuit looks like:


Now I am going to go cut one of my fingers off for even showing that.

[Inuyashas_Brother]

Great details, thank you!

[MagnumForceGB]

I have made schematics for a full featured harness. It will correct the issue of no flash-to-pass, and it will allow multiple lighting configurations. There is a main harness that will just connect to the battery and ground, and have a 6 pin connector. The headlight harness will actually be different depending on your lights. So far I have the drawings for H13 Halogen, H13 HID, Eagle Eye Halogen, and Eagle Eye HID. I am still trying to get information about RS Headlights on how they operate on Low Beam and High Beam.

I'll eventually get this DIY better, just need to get the parts in and start taking more pictures.

[MagnumForceGB]

Updated post #1 with this schematic:



H13 on the top left is from the car, you plug into that with a H13 male connector, then start branching off.

This will allow for all types of headlights. If you upgrade from Halogen to HIDS, you will just need to change the connectors.

If you have any questions, I will answer them, I can also tell you where to get the connectors + the Solid State Relay. The total cost I came up with was abouy 60 to 70 dollars, depending on where you buy from.

[ga0358]

WOW! VERY IMPRESSIVE! Just ordered a pair of Eagle Eyes from Ebay and this will come in handy! You the MAN!!!

[IBMCamaro504]

I think I'm gonna try this once I get my Eagle Eyes, wish me luck!

[ifiwasperfect]

can u tell me what size and where did you get your LED turn signals please?

[MagnumForceGB]

I got my LED turn signals from V-LEDS. They are 3157 Standard Switchbacks, Type 1, 60 LED. They alternate between white and amber when the turn signal is applied.

[chozn4service]

Originally Posted by MagnumForceGB

I got my LED turn signals from V-LEDS. They are 3157 Standard Switchbacks, Type 1, 60 LED. They alternate between white and amber when the turn signal is applied.

In your pics, it apprears that the T-Signals are on. Are you saying when you actually use them for signaling they change to amber, and is that back and forth from amber to white or constant amber flash while signaling and then when not in use, constant on as white? Curious! I'd like to have just amber LED in turn signals as this would complete LEDs on all exterior lights for me.
Thanks!

[MagnumForceGB]

Originally Posted by chozn4service

In your pics, it apprears that the T-Signals are on. Are you saying when you actually use them for signaling they change to amber, and is that back and forth from amber to white or constant amber flash while signaling and then when not in use, constant on as white? Curious! I'd like to have just amber LED in turn signals as this would complete LEDs on all exterior lights for me.
Thanks!

There are 2 types from V-LEDS, Type 1 is the ones I have.

Type 1 will be white when the parking lights are on, then when the turn signal is blinking, it will switch between white and amber.

Type 2 will be white only when the parking lights are on, when you use your turn signal, it will flash amber, then turn back to white after the turn signal has stopped.

Since you have a RS car, you don't have 3 wires going into your turn light socket, you only have 2. If you want LED turn signals, just get the plain amber ones. V-LEDS also has Plasma LED amber turn signals, people will be able to see your turn signal from 2 miles away.

[chozn4service]

Originally Posted by MagnumForceGB

Since you have a RS car, you don't have 3 wires going into your turn light socket, you only have 2. If you want LED turn signals, just get the plain amber ones. V-LEDS also has Plasma LED amber turn signals, people will be able to see your turn signal from 2 miles away.

I've got a message to the guys at V-LEDs on this. I've bought from them before for my DRL, inside dome, license plate and trunk lights.
I do appreciate your getting back to me on this. So these would be plug & play, no hyper flash because they're LED? If so, I'll be all over these this week.

[MagnumForceGB]

Originally Posted by chozn4service

I've got a message to the guys at V-LEDs on this. I've bought from them before for my DRL, inside dome, license plate and trunk lights.
I do appreciate your getting back to me on this. So these would be plug & play, no hyper flash because they're LED? If so, I'll be all over these this week.

You will need load resistors for turn signals, LED's use alot less power then halogen's. You can just use T-taps for getting the resistor hooked up to the turn signal wires.