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Need brake/suspension advice for the track
If everything goes well I'll be heading to the track in 3 weeks or so. My current tires, P-Zeros, don't have much tread left and I wouldn't trust them on the track and I'm looking to get either some Eagle F1s or anything else that might get suggested, but that'll be for a different post. As for the brakes/rotors I have the stock Brembos that my car came with. I have't had to replace them yet but I would still like to get some different pads and possibly rotors for the day and save them for another track day if I can. Someone told me to look at the Hawk Ceramic pads but I remember reading somewhere on here that a member wasn't pleased with them and would like some feedback. I'm open to any suggestions though. Not trying to spend more than $150 but if I have to I'll go upto $200 on the brake pads and about the same on the rotors. Also thinking of getting some BMR or Eibach sway bars before the track day. For my suspension mods all I have is 1.4" BMR lowering springs and BMR strut tower brace. Again I'm open to any suggestions on suspension mods too.
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#2 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: pleather and Chiclets Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: a line somwhere
Posts: 4,206
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Do not take those ceramic pads on a road course please
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#3 |
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Which brakes would you recommend I take?
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#4 |
![]() Drives: Yours Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: United States
Posts: 223
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If you are going to be doing road course stuff i would recommend EBC. If you dont want to swap pads at the track, the yellowstuff would probably be a pretty good option.
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#5 | |
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Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 9,621
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Quote:
As for rotors, stick with OEM. They're better than most of the aftermarket and will do just fine until you're ready to spend the money on a high quality setup. As for suspension, the possibilities are endless. Feel free to call, PM or email me and I'll be happy to help you get setup with the right parts to meet your goals. Best regards, Tyler 888-308-6007 |
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#6 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2012 SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Placentia, CA
Posts: 2,130
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Why don't you go out there with stock brakes and suspension and then start upgrading hat you feel needs to be upgraded. Also I would listen to Tyler's suggestions. Good luck!
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#7 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 CGM Camaro 2SS/LS3 Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Raleigh-Durham
Posts: 1,409
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I agree with Jenner, I wouldn't worry about sway bars or any of that, you won't be driving the car anywhere near the limit where they're going to help you.
Brakes however at least need to be good enough to be safe, avoid Ceramics at all costs for track. Do you know how much pad is left on your OEMs? If there's a good bit then I would just leave them on. If the tires are close to the wear bars you probably need to replace them with some fresh tires. I assume you want to go with the OEM 245/275 setup? If so Continental DW is a really good tire for the money, A lot of people seem to be liking the Mickey Thompson Street Comps also, and they look good on the car. There are some other options too like BFG Sport comp2s, they're cheap but aren't really good tires. They're pretty noisy and don't grip super well. They will do fine though, you probably won't be driving hard enough to tell the difference between any of those tires. Just make sure you get a good Summer compound tire, all seasons usually won't hold up on the track very well.
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2010 2SS
BMR 1" Springs Koni Orange struts/shocks 1LE rear sway bar SRP Racing Pedals Hurst Billet short shifter Square tire/wheel setup Elite Engineering Catch Can Stainless Power longtubes/highflow cats K&N Typhoon CAI RPM Motorsports of Garner, NC dyno tune (421 RWHP) |
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#8 | |
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#9 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2012 SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Placentia, CA
Posts: 2,130
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#10 |
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I cant recommend the Michelin PSS enough, dry grip is up there with the goodyears but so much better in the wet, and they last twice as long. Don t use ceramic brakes, the stock pads are ok, you should change your brake fluid to dot 4 like Motul!
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Used Racing Brake 2 Peice Rotors for sale:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=344754 Summit White 2014 2SS 1LE Recaros, NPP exhaust, Nav 2010 2SS A6 - sold. |
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#11 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 CGM Camaro 2SS/LS3 Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Raleigh-Durham
Posts: 1,409
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I have a set of Hawk HP+ and they performed quite well the last two days of HPDE on VIR-N. I had plenty of open track and was signed off to run solo my last two runs. The passenger front apparently wasn't actually getting hot enough because it left of pad material on my rotor on that corner. I didn't have any fade at all even braking from 130mph down to maybe 40-50mph for turn 1. I'm sure as I get better and dive deeper into the braking zones they might start to show their limitations but they did quite well. If your going to run dedicated pads and rotors though I would suggest something higher up the ladder than HP+, they are obviously an entry level pad, but will probably get you through your first few HPDE events before wearing out and aren't as expensive and the big boy pads. They do have great braking power.
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2010 2SS
BMR 1" Springs Koni Orange struts/shocks 1LE rear sway bar SRP Racing Pedals Hurst Billet short shifter Square tire/wheel setup Elite Engineering Catch Can Stainless Power longtubes/highflow cats K&N Typhoon CAI RPM Motorsports of Garner, NC dyno tune (421 RWHP) |
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