V6 motor break-in

[Hemlawk]

I'm wondering which method v6 owners are using to break in thier motors. I've read through Darin's post and it makes sense to me. Personally I've never herd of loading the motor to set the o-rings. I've always thought you need to take it easy, to not stress the motor and the main issue was metal shavings damaging internal components.

Darin's post
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39955

whats y'all input on this?

[scrming]

I did the hard break in... i've been doing it for the last few cars and motorcycles... don't know if it helps... but on paper it makes sense and I've never had an issue with it...

[PieNsky]

Mostly by the manual break in. Dyno results seem about the same.

[Easy Go]

Be nice to it but don't be afraid to step on it every once in a while.

[Russell James]

Drive normal.

Avoid the extremes. No long idling, no full throttle starts. hmmm that's kind of what the manual says.

Anybody that says to drive a new car like you stole it, has some open space between their ears. If you ever actually do steal a car - drive that one like you stole it. If you buy a car - the owner's manual covers 99% of the questions.

[FISHTAIL]

Originally Posted by Russell James

Drive normal.

Avoid the extremes. No long idling, no full throttle starts. hmmm that's kind of what the manual says.

Anybody that says to drive a new car like you stole it, has some open space between their ears. If you ever actually do steal a car - drive that one like you stole it. If you buy a car - the owner's manual covers 99% of the questions.

[BaylorCamaro]

I pretty much did what the Manual said, but I did step on it every now and then once I got past 500 miles. Seems to be fine.

[TJ91]

Do what Darin did, ive noticed people who have done the maual break in have had less hp then those who have done the hard break in.
If the hard break in is done properly, allowing time for cool downs and what not, then it would be the best method to break in your car.
Like someone said, its not the engineers who write the manual and there is liabilities with that. People who build engines will tell you to break them in hard properly.
I wish i had done it, it is my only regret soo far

[Ranger40]

I did the hard break in. It had 7 miles on it when I made my first run. I had a couple of "special" days when I drove it out just to make more runs. Changed my oil over to synthetic at 700 miles.

Now traction control has a hard time keeping it from lighting it up when I push it. Turn TC off and watch the tire rubber ($) magically fly away. Kind of wished it had a posi, maybe it both tires were pulling it wouldn't want to roast that rt rear so much.

And this is with the auto tranny.

[Chacho]

One question...what is the hard break in method?

[Bert]

I basically agree with the "hard break in" method but I would not take it to quite the extreme that is described in Darin's post (link in first post of this thread)

The basic idea is that the engine parts need to wear in to each other to make them all fit perfectly; the machining tolerances are very close but not as close as parts that wear in to each other; also you want to seat the rings as Darin describes.

So you want to put enough load on the engine (and all its parts) to produce that little bit of wear; if you don't get that wear at the beginning then the parts "glaze over" and will not wear in to each other. The thing is to do it without causing anything to overheat in the process.

So, when I do get my new V6, I'll load it pretty hard (meaning full throttle or near full throttle) acceleration for short periods of time; but I'll try not to let the RPM's go much over 4,000 (like it says in the manual) ; then let off the gas and coast to let everything cool down; or put it in neutral like Darin suggests. The idea is to load it hard for short periods to get the needed wear, but then back off and let it cool down before anything overheats. Darin says to let it cool down overnight; this seems a little excessive but can't hurt. That will let all the parts shrink back down so for the next run so they are ready to go again.

Also don't do anything the same for a long time in the first few miles -- like don't drive at the same speed or RPM for a long time; instead vary the speed, RPM, loading, etc. a lot.

[PieNsky]

Originally Posted by TJ91

Do what Darin did, ive noticed people who have done the maual break in have had less hp then those who have done the hard break in. If the hard break in is done properly, allowing time for cool downs and what not, then it would be the best method to break in your car.
Like someone said, its not the engineers who write the manual and there is liabilities with that. People who build engines will tell you to break them in hard properly.
I wish i had done it, it is my only regret soo far

Could you link me to those posts?

[TJ91]

Sure thing, ill look for them and post them here. One car for sure, and im sorry rolnslo, but his, and im pretty sure mine will dyno low as well.
I will get his link. We both did the OE break in and he has a low hp v6, and i have a reallyy slow feeling v6 but i could be wrong on mine since i havent gotten to the dyno yet (way too expensive)
Now, for those who have done the hard break in, im talking about people i know with all different types of cars, and people who i have read about have had higher power/expected power from their engines which had done the hard break in.
I always thought that the hard break in was bad, until i was explained the science behind it, then it all made sense. Anyways ill try my best to finid links/ evidence
Piiensky, did you do the OE break in?
Just read your post, so you did the easy break in and dynod good numbers? What did you get? 263 at the wheels?

[Hemlawk]

Evryone I talk to who knows little about performance cars always say baby it. Mainly due to metal shavings that could damage internal parts. Isnt that is what oil filters are for? and an early oil change?