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#43 |
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I am going to give the only other bad answer that has not yet been given to this poor guy: TRADE IT IN ON A NEW ONE THAT DOES NOT HAVE ANY CHIPS ON IT YET.
Follow Junkman's advice and you will be fine. Otherwise, take it to a pro.
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Cars and women are both going to give you problems...but you can pay somebody else to fix your car!
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#44 | |
![]() Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Midlothian, Va
Posts: 257
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It looks like you did not wait long enough for your paint to cure, you should have waited at least 7 days if the temperature average was 70 degrees. What grit to you use ? I use 1500 to 2000 and very very wet. If after doing so to get the paint level you see a difference between new and old you will never buff it out so that the end result is invisible. To buff it out you need to work your way from cutting compound to fine swirl remover. I have always done it by hand, never by machine. It is much too easy to cut through the OEM paint.
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Installed options;Tinted Windows, De-badged, Hurst Shifter,CAI,Vmax throttle body, Kooks LT Headers, High Flow Cats,Borla Touring Axle Back, ADM Scoop, Washwater relocation,Diablo Predator(c/w Ted's Magic), Custom start defeat switch, painted engine cover, shark fin & bow ties, ABL lighting, Rear Camera. |
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#45 |
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GM fix my PAINT U suck!
Drives: 2010 Black 1SS/RS 6Spd Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Great Red North
Posts: 1,856
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Ive wetsanded, polished cars fresh from a heated paint booth up to 15 year old paint. I dont know why theres a myth about wait times. If you know what youre doing age of the paint means nothing. I use Farecla which is a water based polish so thats probly the difference from that other petroleum based 3M etc polish.
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#46 | |||
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"Detailing Devil Dog"
Drives: 2001 Corvette Coupe Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 2,730
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1200 grit paper cuts like a knife in the hands of a novice. That's why I have a novice start with 2500 grit. Hopefully, they will either get tired of sanding or just diminish the damage enough that it can't be seen BEFORE they actually burn through the clear coat and paint. It is a much safer alternative than having them start grinding on their paint with some 1200 grit paper and be looking at white spot in a mater of minutes. Now they need a paint job and you can bet that you are no longer their BFF! Although we can do it this way, this is advice I wouldn't give a novice. Furthermore, the damage he has doesn't remotely call for those aggressive grits. I could hit that damage with a polisher and the sanding marks would be gone in less than 5 minutes. That's why I think he could drop by a body shop and someone would walk out the bay doors with a buffer and a couple of seconds later say, "There you go!"
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"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."
Last edited by Junkman2008; 03-14-2010 at 09:58 PM. |
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#47 |
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CGM is the Best! Thx GM
Drives: 2010 2LT RS Camaro, Auto + Sunroof Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: MA
Posts: 513
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So i brought the car in to the Chevy dealership and they buffed/fixed my mistake and made it look pretty damm good really quick (thx junkman for the idea) here is a pic:
Now how should i go about fixing this mess which i already had filled?
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Proud Owner of a CGM 2 LT/RS Auto Transmission w/Sunroof and Spare Tire ![]() ![]() |
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#48 |
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"Detailing Devil Dog"
Drives: 2001 Corvette Coupe Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 2,730
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I told you it would be a quick fix for someone who knows what they are doing. Now purchase the Langka kit. You will read the instructions and start at the part just after you fill in the chip with paint (for the spots that you have already applied paint to). They will have you start with the blob eliminator I think. This is the safe way to do what you're trying to do.
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"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."
Last edited by Junkman2008; 03-13-2010 at 01:11 PM. |
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#49 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: abm2ssrs Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: still out of my mind
Posts: 2,095
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[SIGPIC]
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#50 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: abm2ssrs Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: still out of my mind
Posts: 2,095
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Quote:
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[SIGPIC]
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#51 |
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Booooosted.
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Junkman, I'm totaly impressed.
![]() Great advice, and you obviously know your stuff. Thank you for helping a member out. If you were closer, I'd be a regular customer of yours, no doubt.
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#52 | |
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CGM is the Best! Thx GM
Drives: 2010 2LT RS Camaro, Auto + Sunroof Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: MA
Posts: 513
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Brought it to the dealer, buffed out in 5 minutes and that's all that is left
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Proud Owner of a CGM 2 LT/RS Auto Transmission w/Sunroof and Spare Tire ![]() ![]() |
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#53 | |
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"Detailing Devil Dog"
Drives: 2001 Corvette Coupe Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 2,730
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Here's the deal though, I don't work on cars for a living (my father did). I work for this guy, and he's a task master!
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"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."
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#54 |
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Psssssssssshhhhhhhhhhhhh!
Drives: under contruction Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Marysville, Ohio
Posts: 12,996
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The Junkman rocks! His videos and advice have helped me on several occasions.
![]() Now that this thread has had a happy ending, I'm off to find another Camaro5 thread soap opera to follow... Last edited by Darth_Emma; 03-13-2010 at 01:49 PM. |
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#55 | |
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Booooosted.
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I want to get all my little micro scratches out but I'm afrain to try buffing and I don't trust the locals. hahaha |
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#56 | |
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"Detailing Devil Dog"
Drives: 2001 Corvette Coupe Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 2,730
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Quote:
Here's your link!
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"Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."
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