Fan problems after replacing thermostat - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

topgun1 · 07-24-2010, 05:39 PM

So today I replaced my stock thermostat with the SLP 160 degree thermo. Never had any cooling problems before. Filled back up with Dexcool 50/50 exactly like directions (already pre-diluted). Within 10 minutes of driving, my car is overheating, got high coolant temp alert, then a/c turning off due to excessive engine heat, then engine overheating--idle engine, which I did and eventually made it back to the house. lucky I was only a few minutes away.

The fans didn't come on until the coolant temp was up in the 230's! I let it cool down and it just kept creeping up again, no fans kicking on. The fluid appears to be moving in the radiator, there are no leaks or unusual noises or anything. Why would the fans not be coming on now if I only replaced the thermostat? fault thermostat? I can't even drive it right now. I will likely put the stock one back in tomorrow morning and see what happens, but that shouldn't have anything to do with when the fans kick in, that should be controlled by the engine computer right?

any help here would be greatly appreciated!!

Luvpilot · 07-24-2010, 06:11 PM

Install it backwards?

hypurone · 07-24-2010, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luvpilot

Install it backwards?

Heheh, ouch! I wasn't gonna go there in my reply in the other section. BUT, I guess it is possible. OP, you did have the pellet side to the engine and the jiggle pin at 12 o'clock, yes?

formare · 07-24-2010, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luvpilot

Install it backwards?

This was my first thought... Ps why would you want your engine running temp to be so low? This will cause the compression ring gaps to be larger and you will loos compression and increase blow by, no?

Eric Baker · 07-25-2010, 01:39 PM

First off, there is no need for a cooler thermostat in these cars, and it actually can hurt performance.

That being said, did you fully bleed the system? Sounds like you may have an air pocket or two.

Michael_Js · 07-25-2010, 02:39 PM

When I did mine, it wouldn't take all the coolant the first time. had to run the engine a bit, let it cool, then put more in. I wound up taking it out since I didn't feel it added any benefit...

ffrcobra_65 · 07-26-2010, 02:49 PM

thermostat installed incorrectly or bad thermostat
More likely, you have trapped air in the cooling system and you need to burp the engine (run to temp with heater full blast, let cool (this is when coolant gets sucked out of the reservoir), check coolant level and add coolant to the correct level (cool), repeat process til coolant level remains at the correct level)

Eric Baker · 07-26-2010, 09:16 PM

^The proper way to do it is run it with the radiator cap off and keep topping it off. Wait until the fans come on 2 or 3 times and wait for all the bubbles to stop, put the cap back on, and top off the reservoir.

Michael_Js · 07-26-2010, 09:20 PM

Hmmm...didn't know that! Great idea! Would have saved me from almost overheating that day and the car telling me to pull over and shut her off ;(

ffrcobra_65 · 07-27-2010, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eric Baker

^The proper way to do it is run it with the radiator cap off and keep topping it off. Wait until the fans come on 2 or 3 times and wait for all the bubbles to stop, put the cap back on, and top off the reservoir.

Yep, that way too. I didn't wanna recommend that for safety reasons. If a big bubble of air is trapped in the system and a noob is standing over the hole filling it and the systems does a big burp, there is the potential for a scalded face. The reservoir/recovery bottle is vented and is typically is the highest point in the cooling system and where the burping occurs (air rises to the highest point), hence, my recommendation. Either way works.

Eric Baker · 07-27-2010, 06:25 PM

Only problem with that is it won't bleed air properly because it needs to build pressure before the radiator cap opens to the reservoir to let out coolant/air. Ideally, you'd put a funnel on the radiator opening and fill it above the neck, so it won't violently slash all over.

revron · 07-27-2010, 08:26 PM

If its not a problem with an air pocket in the coolant.
You may need to have the fans (computer ) reprogramed to come on sooner.

07-24-2010, 05:39 PM	#1
topgun1 Drives: 10 SIM 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: May 2008 Location: Winston-Salem, NC Posts: 1,939 View My Garage	Fan problems after replacing thermostat So today I replaced my stock thermostat with the SLP 160 degree thermo. Never had any cooling problems before. Filled back up with Dexcool 50/50 exactly like directions (already pre-diluted). Within 10 minutes of driving, my car is overheating, got high coolant temp alert, then a/c turning off due to excessive engine heat, then engine overheating--idle engine, which I did and eventually made it back to the house. lucky I was only a few minutes away. The fans didn't come on until the coolant temp was up in the 230's! I let it cool down and it just kept creeping up again, no fans kicking on. The fluid appears to be moving in the radiator, there are no leaks or unusual noises or anything. Why would the fans not be coming on now if I only replaced the thermostat? fault thermostat? I can't even drive it right now. I will likely put the stock one back in tomorrow morning and see what happens, but that shouldn't have anything to do with when the fans kick in, that should be controlled by the engine computer right? any help here would be greatly appreciated!! __________________ 5th Gen Camaros of the Carolinas SIM, 2SS/RS LS3 5/7/11 453.9 RWHP 427.5 RWTQ VMS Stage 2.5 Comp Cams kit, Cold Air Inductions intake, ADM race scoop, DT 1 3/4" headers, Solo cats, 3" Magnaflow catback, Pypes cutouts, HP tune, H&R SuperSport springs, Eibach sways/spacers, TexasSpeed UD pulley, LSR tensioner pulley, Barton shifter, skip shift eliminator, powder-coated calipers, R1 concept rotors, StopTech pads, Granatelli wires, Lloyds mats, tint, AAC afterburner taillamps, AAC scanner/sidemarkers, SRP pedals, custom engine cover, black bowties, Ridergraphix hood spears....

07-25-2010, 02:39 PM	#6
Michael_Js SoCal C5 Family Member Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS - Black w/IOM; 6M Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Posts: 5,298 View My Garage	When I did mine, it wouldn't take all the coolant the first time. had to run the engine a bit, let it cool, then put more in. I wound up taking it out since I didn't feel it added any benefit... __________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 2010 Black 2SS/RS; 6M; IOM, GFX, sunroof; ADM Race CAI; Zoomers CB; Viper Alarm; Pdaft F&R sways, Adj Endlinks, Rtrailing arms, Camber kit, strut brace, Front Trailing Arm Bushing; SLP Skip-Shift Elim; Tinted lights/windows; Hurst Short-throw; LoJack; Door & Dash ABL Mods; ********; JBA Shorty headers; AACStyle LEDs; Stillen DS rotors, Hawk Ceramic pads; Havoc Blk Chrome wheels: 20x9s; Lingenfelter Blk Al Pedals; RevXtreme Catch Can; Goodridge SS lines; Ported TB; RK Sport hood; Hotchkis chassis brace; KW V3 coilovers;

07-26-2010, 09:20 PM	#9
Michael_Js SoCal C5 Family Member Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS - Black w/IOM; 6M Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Posts: 5,298 View My Garage	Hmmm...didn't know that! Great idea! Would have saved me from almost overheating that day and the car telling me to pull over and shut her off ;( __________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 2010 Black 2SS/RS; 6M; IOM, GFX, sunroof; ADM Race CAI; Zoomers CB; Viper Alarm; Pdaft F&R sways, Adj Endlinks, Rtrailing arms, Camber kit, strut brace, Front Trailing Arm Bushing; SLP Skip-Shift Elim; Tinted lights/windows; Hurst Short-throw; LoJack; Door & Dash ABL Mods; ********; JBA Shorty headers; AACStyle LEDs; Stillen DS rotors, Hawk Ceramic pads; Havoc Blk Chrome wheels: 20x9s; Lingenfelter Blk Al Pedals; RevXtreme Catch Can; Goodridge SS lines; Ported TB; RK Sport hood; Hotchkis chassis brace; KW V3 coilovers;

07-27-2010, 08:26 PM	#12
revron Drives: camaro 2lt rs auto silver Join Date: May 2009 Location: Pahrump, NV Posts: 172	If its not a problem with an air pocket in the coolant. You may need to have the fans (computer ) reprogramed to come on sooner. __________________ Ron

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07-24-2010, 06:11 PM	#2
Luvpilot Drives: GM Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: AZ Posts: 352 View My Garage	Install it backwards?

07-25-2010, 01:39 PM	#5
Eric Baker Drives: Black/Black 2SS/RS 6M Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Boston MA Posts: 987 View My Garage	First off, there is no need for a cooler thermostat in these cars, and it actually can hurt performance. That being said, did you fully bleed the system? Sounds like you may have an air pocket or two.

07-26-2010, 02:49 PM	#7
ffrcobra_65 Account Suspended Drives: SuperCharged 2SS/RS IOM MN6 Join Date: May 2009 Location: CA Posts: 5,094	thermostat installed incorrectly or bad thermostat More likely, you have trapped air in the cooling system and you need to burp the engine (run to temp with heater full blast, let cool (this is when coolant gets sucked out of the reservoir), check coolant level and add coolant to the correct level (cool), repeat process til coolant level remains at the correct level)

07-26-2010, 09:16 PM	#8
Eric Baker Drives: Black/Black 2SS/RS 6M Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Boston MA Posts: 987 View My Garage	^The proper way to do it is run it with the radiator cap off and keep topping it off. Wait until the fans come on 2 or 3 times and wait for all the bubbles to stop, put the cap back on, and top off the reservoir.

07-27-2010, 06:25 PM	#11
Eric Baker Drives: Black/Black 2SS/RS 6M Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Boston MA Posts: 987 View My Garage	Only problem with that is it won't bleed air properly because it needs to build pressure before the radiator cap opens to the reservoir to let out coolant/air. Ideally, you'd put a funnel on the radiator opening and fill it above the neck, so it won't violently slash all over.