6.2 SS OIL CONSUMPTION-PLEASE READ

[SSE 4 2SS]

Originally Posted by 90503

Thanks for all the info. I know this isn't a catch can thread...but then a lot of oil in a catch can would definitely mean bad rings...?

Most of the catch cans I've seen are on cars that have also changed the air intake...can one be installed on the stock air cleaner/intake??

Thanks.

P.S.

Yup, and Traci can hook you up...

[SSE 4 2SS]

Originally Posted by 90503

Thanks for all the info. I know this isn't a catch can thread...but then a lot of oil in a catch can would definitely mean bad rings...?

All of the catch cans I've seen are on cars that have also changed the air intake...can one be installed with the stock air cleaner/intake??

Thanks.

P.S. SSE 4 2SS (Sorry about earlier! Couldn't resist! Got my mind right!!) lol

lol , I have a very short memory and we all back slide periodically... you're good...

[Avalnch]

The harder you drive the SS, the more oil will "burn".

I've had a catch can since almost brand new and I've noticed that I can accumulate as much oil in one auto-x event as I do a whole month's worth of regular street driving. During 2011 when I only insured the car from April to Oct, I went through a whole bottle of Mobile1. All of this came out in the catch can of course (as a nasty black oil), so I can't impress the merits of this mod enough.

[90503]

Originally Posted by Avalnch

The harder you drive the SS, the more oil will "burn".

I've had a catch can since almost brand new and I've noticed that I can accumulate as much oil in one auto-x event as I do a whole month's worth of regular street driving. During 2011 when I only insured the car from April to Oct, I went through a whole bottle of Mobile1. All of this came out in the catch can of course (as a nasty black oil), so I can't impress the merits of this mod enough.

Good tip!...but this piston ring thing, my God!...

So do you think your rings are "good" or "bad" or "normal"?

[mhood]

Two things:

1. This thread is making me very glad that I broke mine in under load.

2. This thread is making me wish I could find/afford a good deal on a CAI, Ported Throttle Body and a catch can.

I just checked my oil and it's looking good at 48% life and 25,000 spirited miles.

[SSE 4 2SS]

Originally Posted by 90503

Good tip!...but this piston ring thing, my God!...

So do you think your rings are "good" or "bad" or "normal"?

I'm betting his rings are in pretty good shape...

Keep in mind, the statement auto X... This is racing in any shape or form... You are exposing the engine to much higher RPM's, higher internal pressures, and extremely sudden increases and decreases in RPM range... from idle, or just off idle to the red line and back in a matter of seconds... In most cases, you also have a lot of engine braking going on... The back pressure from this will cause blow by... big time...

You also have to consider the differences in metal expansion rates... In racing, drag racing and autoX, this is more of a problem than in racing such as Nascar or Indy or Formula 1....Most of those types of racing are for longer periods and the engines all achieve and pretty much hold maximum design temperatures... In auto X and drag racing, not so much.... If for example the block expands at a rate different than the pistons, or the piston rings, then you have variations in clearance...(In drag racing, often times, the engine isn't at full operating temp when it's hammered at the lights... Starting the car in the staging area and doing a burnout will not bring all fluids to operating temp....)

This variation in expansion rates can lead to blow by... and is by and large why it is recommended to change the oil immediately before or after or both in an auto X race. Cup cars and Indy style cars, typically start the car, run like hell, and then are shut down and rebuilt after the race... We the street car owners can't afford that...

In drag racing, the rings are cut to a different tolerance, allowing them to reach their maximum expansion sooner than in cars that will be run for long periods of time... This allows for the rings to seal sooner and the engine wont be heat soaked for as long a period of time if at all... If you take a drag racing specific motor (Very high HP)and run it for long periods of time, from what I've seen, you run the risk of over expanding the piston ring which could cause the piston ring to bind with the cylinder wall and literally pull the top of the piston off...

If it was all easy, we would all do it and it wouldn't be as fun... But... there are people that build motors specifically for a given application, N/A vs F/I, drag racing vs road racing, etc....

This is why it is important to be specific with a builder when spec'ing a motor... and another reason why you use non synthetic oils for break-in... Synthetic's are too slippery... never allowing the rings to fully seat unless a HARD break-in period under specific parameters is used....

This is largely opinion, but it is based on talking with many many actual experts...engine builders and engineers.

[mexiken]

So to avoid major oil consumption by the motor, how should I drive the vehicle during the break in period, and how long is that ????

[Avalnch]

Originally Posted by 90503

Good tip!...but this piston ring thing, my God!...

So do you think your rings are "good" or "bad" or "normal"?

I think my rings are in very good condition. I keep a large glass jar to dump my catchcan oil into. In total, it pretty much equals the amount of oil that I had to replace in the motor. This tells me I'm not consuming oil via the traditional routes.

BTW, I broke my engine in HARD. Full throttle everywhere ever since I took delivery.

[90503]

Originally Posted by mexiken

So to avoid major oil consumption by the motor, how should I drive the vehicle during the break in period, and how long is that ????

My $.02 : I think the best/normal thing to do is vary your speed, especially on long cruises. They say to keep the rpms below 4K for a while, (I know I broke that rule a few times)...Hopefully that "helped" in hindsight..
If I had it to do over again, I might go with a different oil at first.

Get your tips from guys who know...can't say theyd recommend racing of course...but you get the ideal.

[mhood]

Originally Posted by Avalnch

BTW, I broke my engine in HARD. Full throttle everywhere ever since I took delivery.

Yes but did you avoid any back pressure at all? It's not just a matter of driving it hard...you have to do it right.

[Avalnch]

Originally Posted by mexiken

So to avoid major oil consumption by the motor, how should I drive the vehicle during the break in period, and how long is that ????

My motto is "If it don't break the first time you use it hard, it won't break later". Applies to all sorts of things like hammers and rocks. But, if you don't feel comfortable breaking in your motor hard (search for some tips on how to do this), then don't. In the end it's peace of mind vs HP. Just no prolonged highway drives for the first few hundred klicks.

Regardless of whether you have a catchcan or not, you'll loose some oil. Whether that goes back into your combustion chamber or not depends on having a catchcan or not.

[Avalnch]

Originally Posted by mhood

Yes but did you avoid any back pressure at all? It's not just a matter of driving it hard...you have to do it right.

Yes, I did do the requisit search here for the proper, hard break-in procedure.

[mhood]

Originally Posted by Avalnch

Yes, I did do the requisit search here for the proper, hard break-in procedure.

I was told it's over at 500 miles.

[skatalic]

What is considered "excessive amounts of oil" to suspect improperly seated rings? My level of oil went down by 1/3 of the distance between two dots on dipstick after 1000 miles. I bet I do not shift perfectly, but been driving manual for last 19 years on two continents, and I'd like to think I do better then average.