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#85 | |
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I just put mine on as well on Saturday, drove about 100 miles, and the smell of oil in the cabin at idle is really noticeable compared to before I installed it.
Maybe my drain is open as well as default. Quote:
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2012 Camaro 2SS/RS: Black on Black, Hurst
[AAC DRL LED's, AAC LED's for trunk, cabin, license plate, CAI Intake, RX Catch Can, Skip shift eliminator, Pedders Sub-Frame Inserts, Pedders Radius Rod Inserts, Pedders Rack & Pinion Bushing, 1LE front and rear sway bars] |
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#86 |
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Here is my current configuration after install. Can you confirm that this is closed, maybe it will be useful for others as a determination when they check:
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2012 Camaro 2SS/RS: Black on Black, Hurst
[AAC DRL LED's, AAC LED's for trunk, cabin, license plate, CAI Intake, RX Catch Can, Skip shift eliminator, Pedders Sub-Frame Inserts, Pedders Radius Rod Inserts, Pedders Rack & Pinion Bushing, 1LE front and rear sway bars] |
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#87 |
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750HP of Twisted Reaper!
Drives: Blk 2SS/Blk Carb Fibr NS-1 stripes Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Northern VA & NC
Posts: 2,244
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This whole convo has me questioning if MINE is closed now!
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Fear the LMR Twisted Reaper Brotherhood!
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#88 | |
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Quote:
Quick way to check that is remove the pcv valve, drop it in water and put it in the freezer for a while, then take valve out of the freezer and shake it...probably will not rattle and end up in the stuck closed position Just a guess guys |
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#89 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Exige, Miata, Ghia Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: CA, Bay Area
Posts: 2,309
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Christ guys. This talk is getting me worried. I'm going to doublr check mine when i get home.
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#90 |
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Alright, I was hoping for a response from my questions so I will ask this again. Seeing the OPs huge oil blow out can other drivers, with any catch can, avoid this from happening by keeping and eye on our oil guages?
Again, not intending to disrespect the OP for his misfortunes.
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2011 Camaro 2SS/RS, Circle D 3200, ADM Transmission Cooler, BTR Valvetrain, Cam Motion .621 .595 228/244 113+4, ARH 1 7/8 full exhaust, Cold Air Inductions, Katech C5R TC, Melling HV, BTR SLR lifters, Trunion Upgrade, LS2 Dampner, LS9 head gaskets, Bo White PTB, MM can, GFX, Subs, B&M Deep transmission pan,
Holley fuel rail, Proform valve covers, relocated coil packs |
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#91 | |
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Quote:
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#92 | |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 2012 Camaro RS, RX supercharged Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 6,063
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Quote:
Most oil leaks we see are the oil cooler (well known TSB on them) but if the valve is left open the oil caught will drain out and can get on the exhaust. MA2010 is correct. In cold climates the cans will catch a good amount of water as well and if left to get to full can freeze if it is well below freezing. Also, the checkvalves themselves can if moisture is trapped in them. When draining, make sure to have the engine warm and then with the motor off, open the drain valve and allow it to drain for 3-5 minutes (less in warm weather). With the cans mounted to the cylinder head they warm up fast, but on the drivers side air box stud mount it is further and takes longer to warm. To see if all is working correctly, with the motor idling, pull the line loose from the crankcase vent and fell for suction. If you have suction then all is fine. |
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#93 |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 2012 Camaro RS, RX supercharged Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 6,063
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I want to add that this is a first for this issue that the OP had and he did not blow out the seal it appears as the leak seems to have stopped w/out the pressure behind it.
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#94 | |
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... well, not yet.
Drives: 2012 Chevy Silverado ZL1 Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 1,213
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Quote:
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#95 | |
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Quote:
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#96 |
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Chu no guat a hasa is?
Drives: 14 Jeep G Cherokee Overland HEMI Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Some where in So Cal
Posts: 4,272
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11 2SS/RSL99No Longer Stock (Sold) 6/19/14:AAC Plasma DRL's | Plug n play harness | Elite CC | Tint: 35% & 5% | LED Dome light | Show-N-Go Plate Holder | Flowmaster AT | C.A.I. Intake | VMAX CNC Spiral Ported TB | Husky Splash Guards
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#97 |
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I had a detailed conversation with SC2150 regarding the RX catch can and my particular problem. He confirmed that my install was correct and most likely cause was a frozen valve on the catch can. This caused pressure build up in the crankcase. He believes if the leak stopped, no permanent was done to the seal. I spoke with the performance shop that I plan on using for my tune this spring. They also felt if the leak stopped all would be good. They also told me that they never install a catch can with a metered valve. As I said before the factory tube is not metered. I really do not think I lost very much oil through the seal. It had been it running for several minutes before finding the problem. The oil stain in the driveway was only about 3 or 4 inches in diameter. I plan on using the optional non-metered fitting on the catch can since I live in a cold environment. Both SC2150 and my performance shop said this would prevent the problem from ever happening. If your catch can is mounted close to the engine, you may not have anything to worry about. As you can see in the picture, mine is mounted a ways from the engine. This is a common location for those that have a Vararam CAI. Your mileage may vary.
I want to thank everyone for all of the ideas and help you provided. I believe that the RX catch can is a good product. But I did want everyone to know that there is a small chance for a problem and maybe someone would find this information useful. Thanks again everyone!
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#98 |
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... well, not yet.
Drives: 2012 Chevy Silverado ZL1 Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 1,213
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Glad you got it straightened out! And so far looks like no damage. If you think it may still be leaking in the future let me know and we can use the borescope on that rear seal area.
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