RX CATCH CAN & BREATHER CAP PROBLEM - CAUSED OIL LEAK - BEWARE *HELP*

[Whitehambone]

Originally Posted by DandD

Thats exactly what Tracey is saying Whitehambone, The valley cover line does not go to the center of the can, the intake manifold line does, the lines are reversed from what you are saying.

Well now I am confused because the instructions say:

The center fitting of the can is the inlet, and this will run to either the valley cover fitting (just below the intake manifold van nipple on the LS3) or the rear of the driver side valve cover. (on the LS3 this tube is removed) The outlet is the outer fitting and connects to the intake.

Exactly opposite of what you said. I will shot a video a little later.

[DandD]

I wish I had my instructions here damn it I don't. I have the CC ready to be installed but it and the instructions are at the storage unit.

[IndeedSS1]

Originally Posted by Whitehambone

Well now I am confused because the instructions say:

The center fitting of the can is the inlet, and this will run to either the valley cover fitting (just below the intake manifold van nipple on the LS3) or the rear of the driver side valve cover. (on the LS3 this tube is removed) The outlet is the outer fitting and connects to the intake.

Exactly opposite of what you said. I will shot a video a little later.

That flipped picture is throwing everyone off. The blue tape example looks right to me.

[Whitehambone]

Originally Posted by IndeedSS1

That flipped picture is throwing everyone off. The blue tape example looks right to me.

Everyone just need to lay their computer monitor on it side. Ha ha. I will get some better pictures or video of the install.

[IndeedSS1]

Originally Posted by Whitehambone

Everyone just need to lay their computer monitor on it side. Ha ha. I will get some better pictures or video of the install.

It looks like the valley cover hose is going to the center fitting of the can and that is correct.

[SC2150]

You are all correct...I posted it backwards (dysleia)!! Yes, the pictures have me confused also....sorry!

The way to test is to with the car idling remove the hose from the fitting on the rear of the drivers side valve cover. The hose should have a strong vacuum suction you can feel. Also, make sure the fitting is not plugged. Take a piece of hose and hook it to the valve cover fitting and blow through. It should allow flow unrestricted.

If you need, call me direct while your at the car so we can walk through it together.

[DandD]

so then there is still no explanation as to what caused Whitehambone's problem here?

[SC2150]

Originally Posted by Whitehambone

Ok, here is a summary. Hoses are routed to the correct locations; the picture I posted was sideways. The center hose form the can is going to the metal barbed fitting, the outer to the intake (vacuum side). So gases from the crankcase go into the center fitting in the catch can and return to the intake from the outer fitting in the catch can. This makes sense if you see the cut away view of the RX catch can. I would not suck the air from the bottom chamber where gravity pulls everything.

Both the breather cap and RX catch can have been installed on this vehicle for almost one year without an issue. However I have not driven the car in freezing temperatures since the install. Just a few days earlier, I had to explain to someone standing by my running car what the rattling noise was from under the hood. So I know it was working fine.

I also did not mean to imply that the breather cap was the problem. The title does say RX Catch Can & Breather Cap. If I understand the breather cap design, it should only allow air into the system. Someone correct me if I am wrong. Pressure in the system should pass through the can, under deceleration any vacuum should be relieved by the breather cap.

After I pulled the breather cap and vented the pressure, I put my hand over the oil fill port. It was very slowly creating pressure at an idle. When I took out the metered valve on the catch can and put my hand over the oil fill, I felt a vacuum. It seems the metered valve on the catch can was stuck or frozen. By the time I removed the valve, the heat from my hand must have thawed it out because it did rattle when I shook it, as well as the breather cap (but it is kept hot).

When this problem occurred to was quite cold, it was in the 20’s. I have my can located on the driver’s side wheel well where the factory air box use to be. This is an optional mounting location for the RX catch can for those of us with a Vararam CAI. The hoses route under the engine cover and get quite warm under there. But this morning I drove the car and it was in the 20’s again. As soon as I stopped, I popped the hood and felt the can. It was ice cold. I suppose that would be the ideal condition to help condensation, but I could see how it could create problems below freezing. Normally the metered valve would be close to the engine and kept warm.

I decided to put the non-metered fitting in the catch can. Essentially this is how it is from the factory. The short hose is a non-metered pass through. I understand the metered valve in the catch can improves its performance, so that is why I put up with the rattling noise. But it does not fail in a safe way; I just hope that I did not damage the seal. Unless someone else can offer an explanation, I believe this is what happened.

Sorry I just read this and yes, you have it correct. It is possible the valve is the issue on yours and the fitting swap fixed it.

Call if you have a chance.

[Whitehambone]

Originally Posted by SC2150

You are all correct...I posted it backwards (dysleia)!! Yes, the pictures have me confused also....sorry!

The way to test is to with the car idling remove the hose from the fitting on the rear of the drivers side valve cover. The hose should have a strong vacuum suction you can feel. Also, make sure the fitting is not plugged. Take a piece of hose and hook it to the valve cover fitting and blow through. It should allow flow unrestricted.

If you need, call me direct while your at the car so we can walk through it together.

I also have the breather cap. Now without the metered valve in the catch can I have a strong vacuum breather cap. I can even hear air entering the system through the breather. I am sure if I put on the factory cap and restored the air bridge I would have vacuum there as well. When the problem occurred I had a very slight pressure if I put my palm over the oil fill when the car was running. The only thing I changed was the metered valve on the catch can. I just noticed your number, I will give you a call.

[SC2150]

[BigCarrot]

Originally Posted by 2010 SS RS

Here is what I was seeing.....First the RX can and the blue taped line is clearly on the outside hook up correct? Then the second he has it hooked up to the Intake not the PCV valve. correct? That is not correct. The outside should go to the PCV and the middle to the intake I thought. To be honest its been almost two years since I installed mine and I have a SC so it all looks a little different to me in my mind. I cant remember what the stock engine even looked like anymore...Guess I am getting old.

Ok I'm thoroughly confused now haha I just need to double check and make sure my setup is correct. I don't want to burden SC with calls when I'm sure he's getting plenty right now with concerned people

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...8&postcount=47

Are the pictures in 2010 SS's post correct (link above)? Mine are set-up that way and I have a breather Cap. LS3 Engine

Oh and I checked the drain valve... I had it backward oil was pooling in my hose because I have it secured so it won't empty out while I'm driving in cases like this...

[klatterblast]

I did not read the whole thread but could it be the engine oil cooler leaking ? My car leaked oil and looked just like that so I tightened the 2-10mm engine oil cooler bolts. no more leaks. One of the bolts is hard to get to if you have headers, I cut 1/4" off of a short 10mm 1/4" drive socket and then took a small profile 1/4" ratchet and the cut socket and it fit so I could tighten it.

[bannonm]

Can someone clarify this statement made by SC...

"we find a high percentage accidently open the drain valve. he drain valve is CLOSED when the thrreads are all the way exposed and extended, and open when the threads are retraceted and not all visable."

As I'm sitting here at lunch reading this, I'm concerned my RX can is open. Looking at the bottom of the can, if I turn the valve clockwise is the valve shut? As any normal valve, if I turn it CW the valve closes. Sounds to me like this valve on this can is opposite. So again, looking at the bottom of the can turning the valve CCW actually is closing the valve?

I just put this can on a few weeks ago but only have less than 100 miles on it. I started smelling the faint smell of burnt oil while driving and now I confused if maybe I have the valve open and that's what I'm smelling. And no I don't have the hoses flipped.

[BigCarrot]

I just had to close mine. Turn Clockwise to close Counter Clockwise to open (Image you're laying underneath the car turning it).