ZL1 #140 starting mods

[1st Gen Forever]

Remove the radiator only. The condenser has enough flex on the lines to raise it up and lay it across the top of the engine while you r&r the cam.

On the oil lines underneath, they are for the manual trans and once you pull the black ring back, there's a c-clip that you can pop off with a screwdriver. Just don't let it fly, you may never find it. Once the clip is removed, the line slides out.

[2012ZL1]

Thanks for the help.

I keep wondering if I should bother with the old style tensioner. Mine looks in good shape as it sits. Are they really that bad?

I was also curious as to why the pan needs to be dropped to remove the oil pump. It looks like it clears the pan at the bottom.?

[1st Gen Forever]

Replacing the tensioner is like a religious debate so make your own call on that. If I did it over, I would probably leave the stock one in only because of the headache with the pan.

You have to drop the oil pan to get the oil pump off because of the pick up tube underneath. It's bolted to the pump.

[1st Gen Forever]

So the plan right now is to go to Speedworld November 17th. Gonna take another shot with my Nitto Drag Radials and see if I can do better at a different track.

I'll shoot some video and post timeslips.

Not giving up yet!

[2012ZL1]

Thanks again First gen (don't know your actual name) for the help and answering my questions going through this stuff.
Mark.

[Sack Rat 2SS]

Originally Posted by 1st Gen Forever

Replacing the tensioner is like a religious debate so make your own call on that. If I did it over, I would probably leave the stock one in only because of the headache with the pan.

You have to drop the oil pan to get the oil pump off because of the pick up tube underneath. It's bolted to the pump.

2012ZL1, FYI, you need only drop the front of the pan enough to carefully remove the bolt holding the pickup to pump. About 3/4 inch but you need to loosten pan bolts, not remove pan. Careful not to drop the bolt into pan. The older style black DAMPNER for 3 bolt cam gear replaces the TENSIONER for one bolt cam gears. ZR1 Vette for example. Don't cut the corner. Some of those that have cut this corner changing cams have found parts of tensioner in their oil pan due to failure. Lastly two quality builders, Lingenfelter and ADM Perf, replace all the tensioners with dampners when doing a cam change. It can only help and not hurt.

[2012ZL1]

I figured out why people have broken the tensioners. After watching some video and seeing pictures of how people retract the tensioner to install the cam gear, It becomes painfully obvious the problem does not lie with the "part" but with the installer.
These tensioners are not meant to be "retracted". They are a one time deal. Once the pin is removed that holds the tensioner back, its done.
Retracting the plastic tensioner by prying or clamping causes cracks which while not evident at the time, self destruct shortly thereafter.

The chain tensioner is the newest design because it works better at controlling chain tension at high rpms. Either install a NEW one, or do not retract it and it will be fine. I re-used mine and did not retract it and had no problem popping my new 3 bolt cam gear on by hand with no help from prybars,pliers or any tools. I guarantee There will be no issues with it.

The one thing that is correct about the dampner as opposed to the tensioner is that it is idiot proof.

[KD Innovations]

Originally Posted by 2012ZL1

Thanks for the help.

I keep wondering if I should bother with the old style tensioner. Mine looks in good shape as it sits. Are they really that bad?

I was also curious as to why the pan needs to be dropped to remove the oil pump. It looks like it clears the pan at the bottom.?

Don't bother changing it. They fixed the issue with them in 2010 on the cts-v. I am running the stock one.

[KD Innovations]

Originally Posted by 2012ZL1

I figured out why people have broken the tensioners. After watching some video and seeing pictures of how people retract the tensioner to install the cam gear, It becomes painfully obvious the problem does not lie with the "part" but with the installer.
These tensioners are not meant to be "retracted". They are a one time deal. Once the pin is removed that holds the tensioner back, its done.
Retracting the plastic tensioner by prying or clamping causes cracks which while not evident at the time, self destruct shortly thereafter.

The chain tensioner is the newest design because it works better at controlling chain tension at high rpms. Either install a NEW one, or do not retract it and it will be fine. I re-used mine and did not retract it and had no problem popping my new 3 bolt cam gear on by hand with no help from prybars,pliers or any tools. I guarantee There will be no issues with it.

The one thing that is correct about the dampner as opposed to the tensioner is that it is idiot proof.

Excellent post. Very accurate and detailed reasoning.

[2012ZL1]

Originally Posted by KD Innovations

Excellent post. Very accurate and detailed reasoning.

Why thank you sir!

[Guard dog]

Originally Posted by Guard dog

The 102 closing has happened with the whipple supercharger. I don't know of anyone who has had that problem with a 1.9L TVS. If anybody has, please chime in.
My V runs 10s in the 1/4 with the stock TB and I am moving up to a NW 102 this week with no concerns.

As far as the launch, air those drag radial down to 18-20 psi and heat them up until the smoke covers the tower. That's your best shot at traction. Bad track prep makes it tough.

I just want to post an update for anyone who had read my previous post above. There have been a couple high hp CTS Vs (>700 rwhp) that have seen the NW 102 shut with ported 1.9L blowers and 2.5/9.5 pulley combos. I don't want anyone to look at my old post and be surprised. I am updating this becasue I just became aware of these new reports of problems.

[1st Gen Forever]

I've seen some mention of this on the Internet but so far I haven't experienced it myself yet. I'm running 2.5/9.1 combo and my peak boost is right around 13psi. Just hit 4500 miles on the mods and so far my biggest problem as the weather cools in Arizona is traction. Put the car sideways in 3rd gear the other day merging onto the freeway!

Gonna try my luck at another dragstrip run next weekend. I'll share the results!

[1st Gen Forever]

Speedworld track prep was much better than Firebird. I was actually caught off guard by how well the tires stuck. Ended up having some ECM issues where the car wouldn't let the engine rev out over 4k in 1st gear so my best pass was the first one of the night. 11.2 @ 127mph

Was a fun night and met lots of nice people last night. Some even owned mustangs... :-/

Here's a video:

[Wvlsxjunkie]

Jesus!! That thing is NASTY!!!