ZL1 #140 starting mods - Page 20 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

tnspd · 10-22-2012, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1st Gen Forever

It is hard. You have to put that power down early for sure and that's no easy feat.

It sure is not easy. Especially when you are trying to put down over 700 rwhp as fast as you can. Track prep is a key factor for that. I think my stock car might have it easier in that respect with not having to try and put down that much HP all at once. Keep at it you will get there.

Just wondering if you have noticed your car wanting to drop HP at WOT. I read on here where the 102 TB when used on really high HP engines has a problem of sucking the the TB closed.

1st Gen Forever · 10-22-2012, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tnspd

Just wondering if you have noticed your car wanting to drop HP at WOT. I read on here where the 102 TB when used on really high HP engines has a problem of sucking the the TB closed.

I have heard that as well and so far I have not personally noticed that. Perhaps Keith or Damon would chime in the subject. I'm pretty sure they've had experience with this issue before.

I did play around a little more this weekend with my Nitto NT05R drag radials and although I am now 99% sure they will never completely hook with 600lb-ft of torque at 3000RPM and I should have bought full on drag slicks, The Nittos seem to like about 14psi. I was running 23 at the track Friday witch I thought was low.

At 14 psi, I can still break them loose at will in 1st but 2nd gear they bite a little better...

Guard dog · 10-22-2012, 06:02 PM

The 102 closing has happened with the whipple supercharger. I don't know of anyone who has had that problem with a 1.9L TVS. If anybody has, please chime in.
My V runs 10s in the 1/4 with the stock TB and I am moving up to a NW 102 this week with no concerns.

As far as the launch, air those drag radial down to 18-20 psi and heat them up until the smoke covers the tower. That's your best shot at traction. Bad track prep makes it tough.

KD Innovations · 10-22-2012, 09:56 PM

I have a NW 102 on my Whipple V with 22.5 psi and a NW102 on my ZL1 with 14.5 psi. zero issues on either.

tnspd · 10-23-2012, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD Innovations

I have a NW 102 on my Whipple V with 22.5 psi and a NW102 on my ZL1 with 14.5 psi. zero issues on either.

I wonder why others are having a problem then? There are threads on here about the problem. Maybe they have really big HP engines then. I'll have to go read it again.

KD Innovations · 10-23-2012, 03:55 PM

My V makes 1000 HP.

tnspd · 10-23-2012, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KD Innovations

My V makes 1000 HP.

here is one of the threads

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...losing&page=21

Guard dog · 10-24-2012, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tnspd

here is one of the threads

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...losing&page=21

800+ CTS V is Manny. He has a whippled V that runs 9s on blower only. Again, the only people who have had problems with the NW102 closing are those with whipple superchargers. This is not an issue with the 1.9 or 2.3 TVS blowers.

2012ZL1 · 11-01-2012, 02:53 AM

1st Gen,
Putting my cam in now..have some questions since you been there recently.
What are the lines for that run above the rack and below the damper up to the lower part of the rad?? diff cooler? and how do you undo them? They have some metal ring clips or something with black plastic covers.
And secondly, how do you get the a/c belt off? It seems as if there is no belt tensioner or adjustment visable. Did you just take off the damper and get it off that way? My damper has to come off anyway for the new damper and pulley.

Bcruse84 · 11-01-2012, 03:16 AM

I did my crank pulley last week and I loosened the compressor and it allowed the belt to slack enough to get off.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

Stephen12ZL1 · 11-01-2012, 06:15 AM

It has a "stretch fit" belt with no tensioner. There is a little plastic wedge type tool you can use to aid in the install. To remove the belt manufacturer recommends cutting it off. I removed the lower balancer and the belt just pushes right off. To install, I did it by rotating the motor clockwise while pushing very hard with my fingers...like a bike chain. The plastic style tool is probably easier. There are a few videos and a metal tool available but most of these are for a belt in outermost position and, as you know, the a/c belt is in the most inboard position.

2012ZL1 · 11-01-2012, 10:16 AM

Thanks for the responses. I also figured out the hose connectors. They are called "jiffy-tite".. Lisle makes a tool.

1st Gen Forever · 11-01-2012, 12:26 PM

Isn't the Internet great? You got your answers before I could chime in!

I "stretched" the A/C belt. Came off easier than it went on but it's doable if you rotate the crank as you go.

And the trans coolant lines are easy enough once you slide the black plastic ring back. Just cap them with something or you'll lose a lot of fluid.

Now on the cam, if you're also changing the timing chain tensioner (I did) you'll need to lower the oil pan and accomplishing that in the ZL1 is a major pain in the ass! You just can't easily get at all the bolts. That task took me an entire weekend and was an exercise in patience!

2012ZL1 · 11-01-2012, 12:37 PM

Yes I am changing the tensioner to the older style one also. Did you take out the rad and condensor or just the rad. I'd really like to not have to re-charge my a/c. I'm hoping to take out the rad and get enough room. Also how did you undo the jiffy-tite connections did you have the tool?
What are those lines for anyway? I have a manual trans. What fluid runs through them? To me they look like modern versions of the old school auto trans cooler in the bottom of the rad..but I don't have an auto. Do they cool the manual trans fluid?

10-22-2012, 06:02 PM	#269
Guard dog Drives: 2009 CTS V Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Outside Memphis Posts: 9	The 102 closing has happened with the whipple supercharger. I don't know of anyone who has had that problem with a 1.9L TVS. If anybody has, please chime in. My V runs 10s in the 1/4 with the stock TB and I am moving up to a NW 102 this week with no concerns. As far as the launch, air those drag radial down to 18-20 psi and heat them up until the smoke covers the tower. That's your best shot at traction. Bad track prep makes it tough. Last edited by Guard dog; 10-22-2012 at 06:14 PM.

11-01-2012, 06:15 AM	#277
Stephen12ZL1 Drives: '21 ZLE A10 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Mechanicsville, VA Posts: 6,824	It has a "stretch fit" belt with no tensioner. There is a little plastic wedge type tool you can use to aid in the install. To remove the belt manufacturer recommends cutting it off. I removed the lower balancer and the belt just pushes right off. To install, I did it by rotating the motor clockwise while pushing very hard with my fingers...like a bike chain. The plastic style tool is probably easier. There are a few videos and a metal tool available but most of these are for a belt in outermost position and, as you know, the a/c belt is in the most inboard position. __________________ '21 ZLE A10 Wild Cherry PDR 2:00.78 VIR Full 10.68@131.69 1.68 60' '17 ZL1 A10 Mosaic Black PDR/Nav 2:03.08 VIR Full 11.003@129.2 1.75 (sold) '15 Z/28 #325 Black a/c & stereo. 2:10.1 VIR Full (sold) '12 ZL1 A6 Black 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold)

10-22-2012, 09:56 PM	#270
KD Innovations Drives: 2012 ZL1, 2009 CTS-V Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Staging Lanes Posts: 463	I have a NW 102 on my Whipple V with 22.5 psi and a NW102 on my ZL1 with 14.5 psi. zero issues on either.

10-23-2012, 03:55 PM	#272
KD Innovations Drives: 2012 ZL1, 2009 CTS-V Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Staging Lanes Posts: 463	My V makes 1000 HP.

11-01-2012, 02:53 AM	#275
2012ZL1 CaRaHoLiC Drives: '12 ZL1,67 Cam,68 Biscayne 427 4 sp Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: B.C. Canada Posts: 1,701	1st Gen, Putting my cam in now..have some questions since you been there recently. What are the lines for that run above the rack and below the damper up to the lower part of the rad?? diff cooler? and how do you undo them? They have some metal ring clips or something with black plastic covers. And secondly, how do you get the a/c belt off? It seems as if there is no belt tensioner or adjustment visable. Did you just take off the damper and get it off that way? My damper has to come off anyway for the new damper and pulley.

11-01-2012, 03:16 AM	#276
Bcruse84 Drives: 2013 red ZL1 Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Danville IN Posts: 21	I did my crank pulley last week and I loosened the compressor and it allowed the belt to slack enough to get off. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

11-01-2012, 10:16 AM	#278
2012ZL1 CaRaHoLiC Drives: '12 ZL1,67 Cam,68 Biscayne 427 4 sp Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: B.C. Canada Posts: 1,701	Thanks for the responses. I also figured out the hose connectors. They are called "jiffy-tite".. Lisle makes a tool.

11-01-2012, 12:26 PM	#279
1st Gen Forever ZL1 #140 Drives: Camaros: 68 SS, 10 2SS/RS, 12 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arizona Posts: 594	Isn't the Internet great? You got your answers before I could chime in! I "stretched" the A/C belt. Came off easier than it went on but it's doable if you rotate the crank as you go. And the trans coolant lines are easy enough once you slide the black plastic ring back. Just cap them with something or you'll lose a lot of fluid. Now on the cam, if you're also changing the timing chain tensioner (I did) you'll need to lower the oil pan and accomplishing that in the ZL1 is a major pain in the ass! You just can't easily get at all the bolts. That task took me an entire weekend and was an exercise in patience!

11-01-2012, 12:37 PM	#280
2012ZL1 CaRaHoLiC Drives: '12 ZL1,67 Cam,68 Biscayne 427 4 sp Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: B.C. Canada Posts: 1,701	Yes I am changing the tensioner to the older style one also. Did you take out the rad and condensor or just the rad. I'd really like to not have to re-charge my a/c. I'm hoping to take out the rad and get enough room. Also how did you undo the jiffy-tite connections did you have the tool? What are those lines for anyway? I have a manual trans. What fluid runs through them? To me they look like modern versions of the old school auto trans cooler in the bottom of the rad..but I don't have an auto. Do they cool the manual trans fluid?