01-12-2009, 07:25 AM | #29 | ||||
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I would not recommend doing that. the different properties/additives of each could counteract each other and give you less performance then any of them alone.
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01-12-2009, 07:26 AM | #30 | ||
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ill post up some links later today
just make sure you keep an eye on them when they change it. ive seen times where people would bring in full synth and they would put regular off brand dino oil in the car and keep the synth for themselves.
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Never race anything you can't afford to light on fire and push off a cliff
A group as a whole tends to be smarter than the smartest person in that group until one jackass convinces everyone otherwise. Quote:
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01-12-2009, 08:38 AM | #31 |
Drives: 1998 Camaro SS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Lancaster, CA
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I've always used Mobil 1, with no problems, but any high quality sythetic should do. I also use a Mobil 1 filter also. They're more expensive, but worth it. My DD gets an oil change every 5,000 miles. My SS gets one every 3,000 or one year, whichever comes first.
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01-12-2009, 09:48 AM | #32 |
Moderator.ca
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Just because you can, doesn't mean you should.
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Note, if I've gotten any facts wrong in the above, just ignore any points I made with them
__________________ Originally Posted by FbodFather My sister's dentist's brother's cousin's housekeeper's dog-breeder's nephew sells coffee filters to the company that provides coffee to General Motors...... ........and HE WOULD KNOW!!!!__________________ Camaro Fest sub-forum |
01-12-2009, 09:51 AM | #33 |
Drives: 2020 Cadillac CT5 V and 87 Buick GN Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: North Shore, MA
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"Does both the v6 and SS come with Mobil1, thanks alot guys, this thread has been very informing!"
My guess would be yes on both. My 08 Caddy CTS DI V-6 came from the factory with Mobil 1 and my former Trailblazer SS with the LS2 had Mobil 1 in it as well from day one. |
01-12-2009, 09:54 AM | #34 |
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If the new Camaro comes with Mobil 1, then that's what I'd continue to use. (Just my personal preference. )
As others have stated, there are other good quality motor oils available. For my '99 SS, I switched to Mobil 1 at 500 mi., and have been using it ever since. No leaks, etc., no problems. I've also found it cheaper to buy my Mobil 1 at COSCO, SAMS CLUB, etc., pick up a filter, and have it changed at a friends shop. Cheaper than using the dealer. |
01-12-2009, 10:27 AM | #35 | ||
FASTER!
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I'm an oil connoisseur, and have done years of research, sent samples off for analysis, and read more than I care to admit about oil, oil change intervals, and participated in many debates on the topic. I consider myself highly educated on the subject and need to step in here since there are SO many misconceptions about oil.
If you're REALLY interested in learning about motor oil rather than just throwing around your opinion and what your Dad taught you, then go to www.bobistheoilguy.com and start reading, especially the forums and oil analysis reports. I spent about 2 weeks straight reading through their forums and those guys know their stuff, and have analysis of their oil to back up their facts. You can't BS people when you have an analysis report showing the results of your oil after use. For example, one guy kept Mobil 1 in his Toyota Tundra for 5 years and 10,000 miles. The analysis showed the oil still had plenty of life in it. I was shocked, but the facts don't lie. He was retired and obviously didn't drive much, but 5 years WOW. Quote:
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Only analysis can dictate that. I believe BMW in Europe frequently run their oil to some crazy mileage like that. It comes down to the engine in the car really and how much it contaminates the oil with fuel, soot, etc. With Amsoil, you're changing the filter, but not the oil alot of the time. This requires you to add oil to the sump, which freshens it up so to speak, but isn't a full oil change. That's how they do the 1 year, 25,000 mile oil changes. As I've said above, www.bobistheoilguy.com especially this forum: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Board=3&page=1 But be prepared to practically read yourself blind with all the good info. I've got a buddy who does oil and engine analysis for a living as part of the oil certification process. He says his testing has shown the size of the sump makes a huge difference and that a very safe and quick way to determine you're oil change interval is to multiply the number of quarts the engine takes by 1,000. That'll tell you when you should change your DINO oil. Double that for synthetic. So if the Camaro holds 9qts, then it's a 9,000 mile oil change with DINO oil, and that's being conservative. With Mobil 1 it'd be 18,000 miles. However, I'd never go more than 7,500 on any oil with out having it tested first to find out how it's doing in MY car. If at 7,500 it's fine, then I push it out to 10,000 and see how that does. If 10,000 is fine, then 15,000 and test again. The tests only cost about $25. Once you find the sweet spot for your car, then you'll be saving loads of cash over the life of the vehicle in time and oil changes as well as preserving a natural resource. 3,000 mile oil changes are pushed by JiffyLube and anyone who follows that advice is a real clown. I sent off a sample today from my car that had 9,000 miles on it. The oil was Castrol GTX 10W30 regular o'l cheap DINO oil. We'll see how she looks and I'll even post the results here when I get them back. OH, and yes a good oil filter is important, but Mobil1 filters are highly overrated and over priced. Purolator PureOne oil filters have tested AT LEAST as good as Mobil 1, and cost about half the price of the Mobil 1. From the research I've done as of today, if you want the best setup at the most cost effective price point, Penzoil Platinum and a Purolator PureOne oil filter is your best bet. I'm too cheap to buy synthetic oil when my standard cheap DINO oil lasts a year in my cars, so I don't use synthetic personally, but the analysis I've seen on Penzoil Platinum are very impressive. No need to take my word for any of this. Read up for yourself at the site I've mentioned above. Sorry for the novel, but so many people are just plain uneducated regarding oil and oil change intervals. |
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01-12-2009, 10:38 AM | #36 |
Drives: 2010 ABM SS #14 of 2,027 Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: New York
Posts: 1,217
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Umm spike that was supposed to be a joke...ya know bustin on the sales pitch for each brand.....oh well
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01-12-2009, 10:41 AM | #37 |
Drives: 2010 ABM SS #14 of 2,027 Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: New York
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01-12-2009, 10:42 AM | #38 |
Drives: 00 Blazer Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,104
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I recommend Royal Purple Mineral break in oil for breaking in engines. Then switch to Royal Purple full synth. My LT1 Corvette, one of the first built, loves the Royal Purple I also use it in my L35 (v6 truck).
http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil.html http://www.royalpurple.com/motor-oil.html |
01-12-2009, 10:46 AM | #39 | |
I used to be Dragoneye...
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And I was always under the impression that it's ALL "Dino" oil. Synthetic isn't "made", per say, but has just had its carbon-chains manipulated. |
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01-12-2009, 10:51 AM | #40 |
Drives: 00 Blazer Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,104
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I read somewhere that Cas GTX is the worst oil. I think one of it's specs was revoked.
I don't think the Mobil 1 filters are overpriced at all. You get what you pay for... an old lesson that I have even burned myself with a few times lol. |
01-12-2009, 11:07 AM | #41 | ||
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If you're ok paying $12 - $15 for your Mobil 1 filter when you can get a Purolator PurOne for $6 that is as good or better that's your perogative. You want to read up on this though before you continue throwing money away: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...ce.html#mobil1 The whole page is really informative, but particularly that section. I found it interesting how many different filters are actually made by the same companies and re-badged. |
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01-12-2009, 11:15 AM | #42 |
Thx TZD.
Drives: 2010 Supercharged Custom Camaro Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,100
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My Yukon started doing that once I switched to full syn. quart low every 3000. pain it is
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