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Old 06-20-2009, 07:03 PM   #1
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L99 People Answer Only.

Can you take your car, put it in M and leave it in sport with the traction control turned off and get it to spin the tires?

And how do you think you car performs?

At this moment I am very dissappointed in mine. Got beat by a good 3 car lenghts buy a Mustang GT from the stop light. The girl was even spinning her tires and pulling away from me.
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Old 06-20-2009, 07:14 PM   #2
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1st You got Beat by a Girl.

What type of power adders did the mustang Have?
Your Camaro is still stock?

I ran in a Poker run last weekend with all Porsche but my Camaro was let in.
Keep pace with this on NJ 539 through the Jerzy Pines. Passing bunches of Cars on the way down.
Braking had me a bit worried.

Most likley will end up setting my 2010 up for handling more than 1/4 mile.
Many mods to come. Tuning and FI
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Old 06-20-2009, 07:16 PM   #3
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sport mode and manual mode are the only way to start off in first gear, also hold down the traction control button for 7 sec to turn off traction control and stabilitrac

car should have no problem breaking the tires loose

a trans tune really helps the car perform and drive better, gm has the trans tables set up purely for fuel mileage,, 6th gear at 30 mph is not needed, also a yank ss3200 would make your car night and day better
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Old 06-20-2009, 07:19 PM   #4
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Owners only?

I'll brake the rule then.

You should be able to learn how to street drag without changing stabilitrak modes.

There is a KITT sweet spot in the powerband. Where the traction control stays off and you give it as much as it takes without turning on.
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Old 06-20-2009, 07:26 PM   #5
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If I hold it in for 7 seconds and turn all that stuff off it still will not spin. It will only spin if power braking it.

A 400HP car should be able to break the wheels loose. I have 1900 miles on the car. From reading about other peoples L99 I think this is a issue that GM should fix. I think I will not be the only one complaining.
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Old 06-20-2009, 07:35 PM   #6
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true, but 400hp is at the engine,, the auto cars only dyno 315-320hp at the wheels(manual trans cars dyno 360-380),, look under your car, the auto's have 4 cat converters, and a huge 34" x 11" resonator and 2 mufflers, that along with the trans tune really kill the performance of the auto,, gm was really trying to get fuel mileage from the L99 and auto trans

you want your auto to beat manual trans cars you need to:

1. tune the trans and get a converter
2. get the exhaust to flow
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Old 06-20-2009, 07:42 PM   #7
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Good advice. But I also think just need to relax and practice.

The car will come into it's own soon enough.

Did you put the secret weapon in yet? .... (Royal Purple 5/30).
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Old 06-20-2009, 07:44 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camaro1 View Post
true, but 400hp is at the engine,, the auto cars only dyno 315-320hp at the wheels(manual trans cars dyno 360-380),, look under your car, the auto's have 4 cat converters, and a huge 34" x 11" resonator and 2 mufflers, that along with the trans tune really kill the performance of the auto,, gm was really trying to get fuel mileage from the L99 and auto trans

you want your auto to beat manual trans cars you need to:

1. tune the trans and get a converter
2. get the exhaust to flow
and 3., remove AFM with the tune as well..
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Old 06-20-2009, 07:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camaro1 View Post
true, but 400hp is at the engine,, the auto cars only dyno 315-320hp at the wheels(manual trans cars dyno 360-380),, look under your car, the auto's have 4 cat converters, and a huge 34" x 11" resonator and 2 mufflers, that along with the trans tune really kill the performance of the auto,, gm was really trying to get fuel mileage from the L99 and auto trans

you want your auto to beat manual trans cars you need to:

1. tune the trans and get a converter
2. get the exhaust to flow
I would agree.......when my L99 gets here its going in for AR Headers and Exhaust, cai, tune, and maybe a cam......will have to think about the converter.....but if its night to day difference then we may have to add it....
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Old 06-20-2009, 08:07 PM   #10
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converter will be the #1 biggest gain. but should tune the car after for better driveability. Mine has full exhaust and converter and I tuned it also.. I will mess with the tranny tune for weeks I bet, to get it exactly how I want it. I agree its weird that they don't spin... but that doesn't mean they are slow, just a heavy ass car with good grip stock.
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Old 06-20-2009, 08:20 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Scott@Bjorn3D View Post
The girl was even spinning her tires and pulling away from me.
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Old 06-20-2009, 09:12 PM   #12
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You guys keep talking about fuel mileage, but I'm getting about 14.5 mpg with conservative, mostly freeway driving. I can't imagine it could be much worse. My Trans Am got 20+ with the same driving.

More on topic, I'm happy with the performance of the car, but I haven't tried to race anyone. Just hit 800 miles.
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Old 06-20-2009, 10:22 PM   #13
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Scott, I was VERY dissappointed last night at the strip. I never do a "burn out" in the water box when I am running on true street tires, so I pull around it, then back up near the water box (but not in it), then turn the tires over a few times to clean them off. I did this last night (first run) in competitive mode, so I go to turn them over and it takes off like a boat anchor is tied to the rear, it looked ridiculous...I floored it, but it barely even moved forward. So before I staged, I turned everything OFF. I hit the button and turned TC off then held it for 7 seconds and turned stabilitrac off. I feel your pain though..at the track if you look at my thread where I posted my 1/4 video, I spin just a little out of the hole on my fastest run. I would certainly not say they went up in smoke or anything, however, it was on a fairly well preped track. But I can't see it doing much on the street either. Normally I would say, this is an advantage b/c "spinning aint winning" but if you have a fairly powerful car, spinning is a byproduct of that power, and usually you have to run DR to put the power down.

I really think you need to 1st check with your dealer to make sure everything is kosher, then if you can't get any satisfaction from them, take matters into your own hands and start with the performance aftermarket. It all depends on how much you want to spend, how much "comfort" you are willing to give up, and how far you want to go (performance wise).

If I were you and wanted to stay "bolt-on", I would get a good CAI, ARH headers and whatever axle back sounds good to you, a stall (yank or Vigilante) and a dyno based tune to bring all those things together. FYI, my TBSS ran 14.8 @ 93 in weather like we are having now bone stock, then with the mods mentioned above, it ran 12.8 @ 103 in better weather. Just showing how much of a difference weather + mods made...2 seconds and 10 mph with 4 mods. My TBSS weights almost 5K lbs, so I would expect since these mods would actually make more power on the L99, you make gain more.

I would also say that if you don't mind going to this extent, I would get a mild VVT cam and do the AFM delete...since you have to remove the heads when you install the AFM delete kit (pretty sure on this), you could install a thinner head gasket and get a little compression back (since your down on CR from the LS3). Either way, I'd have my tuner get rid of the AFM part of your tune.

I am resolved to the fact this is slower than what I expected, BUT, with the amount of aftermarket stuff for this car, it will be my fault if it stays that way.
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Old 06-20-2009, 10:43 PM   #14
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If you read the last car and driver test on the mustang vs camaro. It would lead one to believe that the mustang would beat the A6 L99 because it's not much slower than the LS3 with the M6. Did anyone do a test on the l99 yet?
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