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#15 | |
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Member
Drives: 2010 ABM 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Where you vacation...Tahoe
Posts: 928
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I beat mine like it owes me money! I have 22 small block and 6 big block builds under my belt, I think if I found "shavings" in one of mine...![]() ________ Vitamins &Amp; Supplements Advice Last edited by superstockcam; 04-19-2011 at 04:13 AM. |
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#16 |
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Account Suspended
Drives: Cargo van. Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Metal Metal Land
Posts: 1,247
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It was sarcasam. Sorry...it doesnt come through quite well over the interwebz.
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#17 |
![]() Drives: 2010 red 2ss/rs gray stripes Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: fayetteville,tn
Posts: 28
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V8 manual here, I would love to post my pictures but they won't post. I have tried everything I know to do. Any suggestion
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#18 | |
![]() Drives: Victory Red 1LT RS Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: San Jose
Posts: 86
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Some say 1,500, some say 3,000, and 5,000.
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--Rhonda
![]() The Princess with the super BAD ass car. |
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#19 | |||||||
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Banned
Drives: A Black Car Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 800
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And uhhhh... 'cause the rings on the piston wont be properly seated unless you beat the hell out of it within the first 500 miles. Meaning that you'll be blowing air and gasoline past the pistons, and everytime you change the oil - it will be all frothy and smell like gasoline... just like that 35 year old pickup truck you have with 300,000 miles on that engine. Oh and uhhh... the "COMPUTER" will learn your driving habits, causing your Camaro to react differently when you step on the accelerator. So if you drive it slow like my oriental grandmother for the first 1,000 miles, you're going to be cursed with a slow 400hp+ Camaro SS that goes 0-60 in 4.5 minutes. Quote:
Some of the younger guys on here are hypochondriacs - in reference to their cars. Some of the older guys are stuck in their old ways, doing what they did when their old cars were brand new. Don't believe everything you read on here, and don't just copy what you hear someone else is doing. There are people on here who are worried about their engine oil, but don't think about the damage that can be done by washing their Camaro 7 times a week. |
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#20 |
![]() Drives: Black 2LT/RS manual Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Corpus Christi tx
Posts: 67
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I think all of you should take a look at this link
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm The fact that you have that many miles on you're cars and you don't see any oil shavings may not be such a good thing. Head down to nearly the bottom of this link and you'll see... "The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc..." right after this section it even says that breaking in using synthetic oils is not a good idea, way too slippery for the rings to seal..... and later saying he has seen rings not sealing no matter how hard they are ran due to synthetic oils. any thoughts? any professionals? It makes perfect sense to me.
__________________
Black 2010 Camaro 2LT/RS manual. 20'' polished, sunroof, MRT 1.0. Picked up 10/14/09
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#21 | |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 2010 F150 Lariat, Candy Red Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,279
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Quote:
Change your oil and check the old oil and filter.
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#22 | ||
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Banned
Drives: A Black Car Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 800
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Quote:
I read that page a while back when people started receiving their Camaros and were curious about a "break-in period". If it's soooooooo the right thing to do, then why is it a "secret"? Like I said before, you can change your oil as often as you'd like, but is it necessary? Does it recommend that you flush the transmission? Does it recommend that you drain the rear-end and replace the fluids? - - - - I know the owner's manual says to do so if you're going to be doing some heavy duty competative driving. Quote:
If my oil temp sky rockets or pressure stays high from a blocked filter... then there is a problem. But here's another question: What Is The Specific Harm Done To The Engine By Not Changing The Oil Immediately?... Or After 500/1000/1500/2000/3000 Miles? If all that bad junk is caught in the filter - then the filter is doing its job. If you believe that the bottom of your oil pan is littered with metal shavings... are you removing your oil pan and wiping it down for your first oil change? Or are your flushing your system by draining the oil, replacing the filter, adding fresh oil, and driving 20 miles - then draining the oil again, replacing the filter, and adding fresh oil again? There's a lot of good info being shared here. A lot of people are just receiving their cars and have lots of questions. And we can't expect new people to use the "search" feature to find the thread they need. |
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#23 |
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You really shouldn't see shavings on the stick, even if they are there. I am told by one of the main Vette/Camaro mechanics at Classic Chevy that there is is a high-intensity magnet in the pan (the plug I believe) that will collect any shavings and prevent them from circulating. You'd only know upon an oil change if there are shavings or not.... and, with the tolerances and technologies in place today, you should never see any unless there is something more serious going on inside your engine.
Last note, the guy cursed me out for changing my oil at 500 miles, told me not to come back again until 5K... at 5K I was clean as a whistle. About to go in for my 10K (literally within the next week or so) and I expect the same result.
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#24 |
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SoCal C5 Family Member
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS - Black w/IOM; 6M Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: San Diego, CA, USA
Posts: 5,298
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I changed my oil around 1200 miles and saw LOTS of metal shaving! I'll be doing it again around 5K, then let the DIC indicate when to change it.
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2010 Black 2SS/RS; 6M; IOM, GFX, sunroof; ADM Race CAI; Zoomers CB; Viper Alarm; Pdaft F&R sways, Adj Endlinks, Rtrailing arms, Camber kit, strut brace, Front Trailing Arm Bushing; SLP Skip-Shift Elim; Tinted lights/windows; Hurst Short-throw; LoJack; Door & Dash ABL Mods; ********; JBA Shorty headers; AACStyle LEDs; Stillen DS rotors, Hawk Ceramic pads; Havoc Blk Chrome wheels: 20x9s; Lingenfelter Blk Al Pedals; RevXtreme Catch Can; Goodridge SS lines; Ported TB; RK Sport hood; Hotchkis chassis brace; KW V3 coilovers; |
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#25 |
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Institutionally Insane
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You are NOT driving your Camaro hard enough!
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It's got a cop motor, a 440 cubic inch plant, it's got cop tires, cop suspension, cop shocks. It's a model made before catalytic converters so it'll run good on regular gas. What do you say, is it the new Bluesmobile or what?
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#26 | |
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Institutionally Insane
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I changed my oil at 890 miles from the FACTORY with a what? Mobil1 filter installed. There were metal shavings in the filter (I cut it open) and there was aluminum sheen on the top layer of the oil drained in the pan. You could actually see the metal sheen. It looked like the froth on the surface of a frappuchino. I have been building engines for 25 years. I hate to break the news to you, but no matter what engine you build you will ALWAYS get residual metal on the bottom of the pan and suspended in the oil. Iron will typically settle in the pan and aluminum will suspend and is literally harmless for the most part as a particulate in oil. You can't tell anyone ANY oil filter will remove 100% of any metal particulate in a brand new engine. With the 8.6 qt capacity of the LS3, you have a greater volume of oil and a much less chance of picking up heavier particles on the bottom of the pan. Sorry, impossible. Oil filters are effectually 99.4% efficient removing all particles of a certain micron size. This is true...AFTER engine break in. After the first oil change I used Pennzoil Platinum and a K&N filter. There was still some metal left. I believe I still have the filter element if anyone wants pictures. It stands to reason that people (as myself) that understand break in procedures (ring seating) will drive a new car hard. I did from day of delivery...and the reason those of us have increased metal in our filters/oil. As a side note, I had 168k on an LS1 engine that was purchased new with 5 miles. I drove it hard from the gate. Right before I sold her, and as a selling point, the oil analysis from Blackstone was excellent for the mileage on that engine. And it passed emissions...and it burned no oil.
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It's got a cop motor, a 440 cubic inch plant, it's got cop tires, cop suspension, cop shocks. It's a model made before catalytic converters so it'll run good on regular gas. What do you say, is it the new Bluesmobile or what?
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#27 |
![]() Drives: 2018 1LT RS V6 Nightfall Grey Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Willow Grove PA
Posts: 570
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Sorry, i love my car and want to do all the scheduled maintenance but i do not believe you need to change the oil before 3000 miles. There is nothing wrong with being cautious with this great car but i really don't think this is a serious issue, seems like a little overkill. If it needed to be done they would certainly tell you to do it to prevent warranty issues and the like, not to mention they could make more money on more oil changes. The filter is there for anything like this if it does happen i would think. As far as long term problems from metal shavings if any, who knows but i bet down the road with the car if there are issues it will be something other than oil problems.
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#28 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '10 Camaro SS Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Posts: 1,047
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At this thread and FNKNSTN's attempt at sturring the pot with the proper break-in procedure.He at me for changing mine at 250miles for the above reasons Doc spoke about above.![]() And the posts from back in July: Quote:
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2010, SIM, 2SS/RS, LS3, CGM Stripes
Last edited by DarricSS; 10-04-2009 at 03:14 AM. |
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