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Old 12-29-2017, 12:26 PM   #15
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An Overkill tune would probably be a lot better for max power gains than the Trifecta.

Unfortunately, the WOT restriction until 4k rpms is going to always be there. No way around that since it's hard coded into the ECU. However, I think the Overkill tune can work around that with the AY6 cars, but I'm not exactly sure how it works or at what level it reduces the restriction until 4k rpms.
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Old 01-02-2018, 11:01 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by MagnumForceGB View Post
AY6 is the V6 manual, the V8 is a TR6060. The AY6 is extremely weak. The auto with a triple disk converter can lock it up at WOT and have the same 1:1 ratio like the manual. When the converter is unlocked you lose HP based on the slip ratio, so a 10% slip would cost you 10% HP (I'm generalizing in this). I have my auto shifting in 30 milliseconds too, a manual driver even on meth can't do that.
The point of me going manual is not to get the stock 6 tranny from my model. Its to get a more durable and stronger tranny to handle more power because I'm planning on rebuilding the block later on. Because either way i'm sure i'll have to replace the automatic one i dont want it to blow on me while im driving that could be dangerous
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Old 01-02-2018, 11:04 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by gringo View Post
An Overkill tune would probably be a lot better for max power gains than the Trifecta.

Unfortunately, the WOT restriction until 4k rpms is going to always be there. No way around that since it's hard coded into the ECU. However, I think the Overkill tune can work around that with the AY6 cars, but I'm not exactly sure how it works or at what level it reduces the restriction until 4k rpms.
Thanks for your suggestion but i'm more than happy with Trifecta they are very responsive to their customers and help within the hour to resolve any sort of issue. I felt a noticeable change in shifting, speed, and i like their ghost cam feature. I haven't had a single problem with them business and talking wise so far for the past 6 months.

I'm not exactly sure what you're talking about with 4K RPM being the max during shifts but my tune has it that i have no rev limiter. When I drive i can shift at 7000 RPM and rev to redline aswell
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Old 01-02-2018, 06:36 PM   #18
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Thanks for your suggestion but i'm more than happy with Trifecta they are very responsive to their customers and help within the hour to resolve any sort of issue. I felt a noticeable change in shifting, speed, and i like their ghost cam feature. I haven't had a single problem with them business and talking wise so far for the past 6 months.

I'm not exactly sure what you're talking about with 4K RPM being the max during shifts but my tune has it that i have no rev limiter. When I drive i can shift at 7000 RPM and rev to redline aswell
No, it's a tune issue. You can't command WOT with the pedal, the throttle plate is limited in the tune in first and second gear.

Also, at some point I was going to attempt it but if you really wanted to switch to a manual transmission, I'm fairly confident the TR6060 with the bellhousing from an ATS-V would work, as they should be almost identical blocks, at which point your hydraulic system would theoretically be out of the SS Camaro. I'm making some pretty broad claims, but that's why I'm talking theoretically. The automatic is the superior choice IMO (even though I'm an AY6 LFX)
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Old 01-03-2018, 02:26 PM   #19
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No, it's a tune issue. You can't command WOT with the pedal, the throttle plate is limited in the tune in first and second gear.

Also, at some point I was going to attempt it but if you really wanted to switch to a manual transmission, I'm fairly confident the TR6060 with the bellhousing from an ATS-V would work, as they should be almost identical blocks, at which point your hydraulic system would theoretically be out of the SS Camaro. I'm making some pretty broad claims, but that's why I'm talking theoretically. The automatic is the superior choice IMO (even though I'm an AY6 LFX)

I never knew that, is that only for automatic?

I heard the suspension and handling from the LT models are actually better than the SS one is that true? I know forsure ill have to swap some stuff from the SS. Wondering how much it would cost or if it is even possible to modify the engine to allow real headers

Also any recommendations for any performance-wise mods? I think I have them all now just want to see if anyone else knows. I'm getting a performance camshaft to cover the fact I can't use E85 in Toronto .... oh and nitrous is illegal here too I've heard about the Vitnesse Throttle Controller but I don't think that's a real upgrade just for people who aren't used to grasping the throttle at right moments correct?
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Old 01-03-2018, 03:51 PM   #20
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I never knew that, is that only for automatic?

I heard the suspension and handling from the LT models are actually better than the SS one is that true? I know forsure ill have to swap some stuff from the SS. Wondering how much it would cost or if it is even possible to modify the engine to allow real headers

Also any recommendations for any performance-wise mods? I think I have them all now just want to see if anyone else knows. I'm getting a performance camshaft to cover the fact I can't use E85 in Toronto .... oh and nitrous is illegal here too I've heard about the Vitnesse Throttle Controller but I don't think that's a real upgrade just for people who aren't used to grasping the throttle at right moments correct?
No, it is a tuning issue with the LFX ECU itself.

The V6 may handle better like for like simply because it weighs less but I don't know enough suspension wise to comment on it. There is a part # for the V6 specific 1LE package from GM, but otherwise you can probably just shop from SS catalogs. You'll need to upgrade a bunch of your rear end parts since you're an automatic though (pretty sure the auto has the open 7.6" IRS). And the whole point of the integrated exhaust manifolds is that it flows pretty well from the factory, you'd be in deep money wise just to be able to say you have headers with negligible performance differences. Catless downpipes is the way to go.

If you had the Overkill tune I'd say you don't need the Vitesse throttle controller, but I guess it's been a way around the throttle command issue. I don't have one, can't comment on it, but there's a bunch of threads about it on the forum already. You could go for an 80mm Overkill TB, I think that's all you don't have. 3.45 gears, aluminum drive shaft?
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Old 01-03-2018, 07:28 PM   #21
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Jumping back in on this to answer some questions I see! As far as other mods go, you can swap out your 72mm throttle body and switch over to the ported 80mm throttle body and actually have your manifold ported even more to match the 80. There are fully catless and catted downpipes, supercharger, those gears I mentioned earlier, intake scoop, and high stall torque converters. We are kind of limited to parts, but that doesn’t mean we can’t make good power. Besides adding performance parts, you can take excess wait out of the car in many ways and work on suspension and lighter wheels. Make sure your car is running top notch and address maintenance issues as they can decrease some performance.

A throttle controller is awesome but keep in mind they don’t add power or anything. They open the throttle body faster making it more responsive. I’ve been running one for 2 years and can’t see myself without. There are a couple options such as Vitesse, Stealth, and Pedal Commander. I’ve used both Vitesse and Stealth 3.0 and prefer my Stealth as it is a little more responsive. I keep it on even being tuned because it just makes the car a lot more fun.

I don’t think it is possible to change or do anything to the headers because they are built into the engine and I really don’t know anyone who has done it on the LFX. A lot of guys swap over the basic 1LE suspension parts onto the V6, but BMR and some other companies have nice stuff as well.

As far as the block goes, I think only a couple of people have attempted to build it. I know of two people, maybe even 1 or 2 more who have made over 600whp. I’m not the most knowledge on this topic, but unless you’re making over 600whp I don’t really think it’s necassry, but again I know nothing on this, I just see what others do.
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Old 01-04-2018, 09:46 AM   #22
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No, it is a tuning issue with the LFX ECU itself.

The V6 may handle better like for like simply because it weighs less but I don't know enough suspension wise to comment on it. There is a part # for the V6 specific 1LE package from GM, but otherwise you can probably just shop from SS catalogs. You'll need to upgrade a bunch of your rear end parts since you're an automatic though (pretty sure the auto has the open 7.6" IRS). And the whole point of the integrated exhaust manifolds is that it flows pretty well from the factory, you'd be in deep money wise just to be able to say you have headers with negligible performance differences. Catless downpipes is the way to go.

If you had the Overkill tune I'd say you don't need the Vitesse throttle controller, but I guess it's been a way around the throttle command issue. I don't have one, can't comment on it, but there's a bunch of threads about it on the forum already. You could go for an 80mm Overkill TB, I think that's all you don't have. 3.45 gears, aluminum drive shaft?
Ok great thats good to know. I already have a secondary cat delete so I've been told catless downpipes won't offer much of a performance increase compared to that.

I'm thinking of getting 3.45 gears... the change in gears gives more torque or just more responsive? From the looks of it the Vitesse controller doesn't do anything performance wise so I guess i won't go for that. From what people told me the difference between the 72mm and 80mm TB is about 2-4 HP so I didn't think it was worth paying an extra $200 for that...
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Old 01-04-2018, 09:56 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by rozarioorlan View Post
Jumping back in on this to answer some questions I see! As far as other mods go, you can swap out your 72mm throttle body and switch over to the ported 80mm throttle body and actually have your manifold ported even more to match the 80. There are fully catless and catted downpipes, supercharger, those gears I mentioned earlier, intake scoop, and high stall torque converters. We are kind of limited to parts, but that doesn’t mean we can’t make good power. Besides adding performance parts, you can take excess wait out of the car in many ways and work on suspension and lighter wheels. Make sure your car is running top notch and address maintenance issues as they can decrease some performance.

A throttle controller is awesome but keep in mind they don’t add power or anything. They open the throttle body faster making it more responsive. I’ve been running one for 2 years and can’t see myself without. There are a couple options such as Vitesse, Stealth, and Pedal Commander. I’ve used both Vitesse and Stealth 3.0 and prefer my Stealth as it is a little more responsive. I keep it on even being tuned because it just makes the car a lot more fun.

I don’t think it is possible to change or do anything to the headers because they are built into the engine and I really don’t know anyone who has done it on the LFX. A lot of guys swap over the basic 1LE suspension parts onto the V6, but BMR and some other companies have nice stuff as well.

As far as the block goes, I think only a couple of people have attempted to build it. I know of two people, maybe even 1 or 2 more who have made over 600whp. I’m not the most knowledge on this topic, but unless you’re making over 600whp I don’t really think it’s necassry, but again I know nothing on this, I just see what others do.
Well if you're doing a roll and already shift into the right gear and start from it then the throttle controller isn't really useful in that case right? Because you already prepared the engine and are at the right rpm rates so its already responsive? I can't speak for others but my tune is pretty responsive and when i floor it in 1st or 2nd gear i fly into the chair

I heard that it's possible to modify the suspension to loose excess weight. I might be looking into that hopefully thats true. I'll be looking to make it more track oriented later on but i know that will be expensive money wise.

I'm aware there's no point of rebuilding it when not over 600whp but i'm saying thats my goal to reach over 600rwhp and start spraying nitrous which will lead me to rebuild it.

Also if you guys are wondering Mace Engineering has their 3.6L LFX Camshafts for us available. It says out of stock on the website but that's not the case when I contacted them. I got it for $1200AUD and its getting shipped atm! I think I'm one of the few with them I only saw 2 people on the forums with it. Can't wait to feel the difference and sound of them. How much do you guys think I'll be making on the dyno with everything I have now including this new camshaft? I'm hoping for 310rwhp+ on 93 octane. Just did an oil change myself I always put nothing but full synthetic oil & filter I'm guessing thats the best as it gets
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Old 01-04-2018, 11:46 AM   #24
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Better have a good tuner, I have the MACE cams and the cam timing need to be dramatically altered from stock. They will ingest a lot more air though then stock though, I'm over 10% more and still have more to do.
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Old 01-04-2018, 12:15 PM   #25
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Better have a good tuner, I have the MACE cams and the cam timing need to be dramatically altered from stock. They will ingest a lot more air though then stock though, I'm over 10% more and still have more to do.
Thanks for telling me that I'm definitely going to the top dyno tuning place around here and I will make sure to tell them to master the cam timing. How does the idle sound with the MACE cams? Is it similar to the ghost cam feature that Trifecta gives? Because atm without the cams it has a deep rumble so wondering how it would be with them on now. How many gains did you realistically see from them? Thanks...

There's like only 1 video with the MACE cams and I can barely hear them and the sound quality is horrible.
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Old 01-04-2018, 12:36 PM   #26
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Ok great thats good to know. I already have a secondary cat delete so I've been told catless downpipes won't offer much of a performance increase compared to that.

I'm thinking of getting 3.45 gears... the change in gears gives more torque or just more responsive? From the looks of it the Vitesse controller doesn't do anything performance wise so I guess i won't go for that. From what people told me the difference between the 72mm and 80mm TB is about 2-4 HP so I didn't think it was worth paying an extra $200 for that...
I went from secondary deletes to catless and there's a pretty fair difference. I don't have dyno numbers but there was a definite power gain, more than I felt when I removed the secondary cats. I also don't know numbers for the stock vs 80mm TB but it obviously (and audibly) moves more air and allows more power; the SS guys have 95mm and 102mm options which is only like a 7.3% difference compared to an 11% difference with the 80mm for us. I guess it's more about being modified from stock vs being completely maxed out.

3.45 has always been my go-to gear choice for our cars. Some guys (Magnum for example) go with the 3.91 1LE gears but I feel like you really need a higher stall converter and a perfect transmission tune to take full advantage. 3.45 is a much slighter change but you can still trap in 3rd if you're N/A (and have a slightly higher rev limiter). Though with boost, you'll be in 4th when you trap anyway, at which point 3.91s would probably be a better choice as you'd be nearing the top of 4th.

Magnum can probably comment more on the high rpm capability of the engine with the MACE cams... If memory serves he runs a pretty wicked max rpm.
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Old 01-04-2018, 05:33 PM   #27
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The idle can sound how you want, it will chop a little at park, but if you bring it in and it will really start to shake the car. I had my exhaust cam actuator fail and it put the exhaust cam in full retard mode, which caused loping and loud backfires. But I don't like it since I need the engine to make as much torque as possible in idle to turn my supercharger when it is installed.

Depending on how many RPM's you want to spin the engine, you can trap in 3rd with bolt-ons with 3.91 gears. With my converter locked, I hit 102 MPH @ 7400 RPM. My wife's Mustang V6 shifts into 4th at the 1000' mark and still runs 0.5 seconds faster than my Camaro, so the shifting isn't a problem if you get the shift times low.

For the gains, I haven't been to a dyno yet with it, and the one time I went to the track with them I had no clue how to tune the low-end part so my 60' was horrible. My MAF before would read a high of 31 lb/min, I'm over 35 lb/min now, and that is a huge gain.
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Old 01-05-2018, 10:33 AM   #28
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I went from secondary deletes to catless and there's a pretty fair difference. I don't have dyno numbers but there was a definite power gain, more than I felt when I removed the secondary cats. I also don't know numbers for the stock vs 80mm TB but it obviously (and audibly) moves more air and allows more power; the SS guys have 95mm and 102mm options which is only like a 7.3% difference compared to an 11% difference with the 80mm for us. I guess it's more about being modified from stock vs being completely maxed out.

3.45 has always been my go-to gear choice for our cars. Some guys (Magnum for example) go with the 3.91 1LE gears but I feel like you really need a higher stall converter and a perfect transmission tune to take full advantage. 3.45 is a much slighter change but you can still trap in 3rd if you're N/A (and have a slightly higher rev limiter). Though with boost, you'll be in 4th when you trap anyway, at which point 3.91s would probably be a better choice as you'd be nearing the top of 4th.

Magnum can probably comment more on the high rpm capability of the engine with the MACE cams... If memory serves he runs a pretty wicked max rpm.
how much of a difference roughly would you say from cat delete to catless downpipe? 5-9hp?

thanks for the information its really useful
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