2010 SS Manual No Start - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Ebarn1g · 12-29-2017, 12:48 PM

So I am pretty stumped on this one.

Background- Car was running and driving. We had it on the dyno when the turbo failed. Trailered the car back to my garage to take the turbo out and send back for warranty. With the down time I put in the comp cams trunion upgrade, line lock, SLP skip shift elim, MSD 2 step and the adapter harness to run fogs at all times.

Current Issue- Got the turbo back and buttoned everything up. Went to start and I am getting nothing. Cluster lights come on, 12v at battery (11.7v at start position). HID relay clicks and lights come on and stay on. Cluster lights go out while trying to crank besides CEL. CEL is because I don't have rear O2s installed, no other codes. Checked all grounds and they all look good. No blown fuses. Jumped out the 4 pin K61 relay and the starter spins, engine cranks. Security light doesn't stay on. Power windows work. I also unplugged the MSD just to be sure, same condition.

Anyone have any ideas? I have the battery on a charger now because 12v is a bit low. Thanks

frankwjr · 12-29-2017, 02:46 PM

is it the original battery? with the cold temps and the higher demands placed on it could have developed a dead spot...could take it out to best tested but I vote replace with a good AGM style(1 of the very first things I did, why take the chance?)...and while your in there chase the grounds(checkin does nuthing) both in the trunk and engine compartment..good luck!

Ebarn1g · 12-29-2017, 02:55 PM

Not sure if it's the original battery. I'm going to try another. Just seems odd that it was fine, now this. Car is also in a heated garage

Ebarn1g · 01-02-2018, 03:36 PM

Tried with jumper cables on running vehicle. Same result. Not getting power to the coil side of the starter relay. Not sure where the issue could be.

Paulie_SS · 01-07-2018, 10:42 AM

I have had similar problems in the past after I pulled my motor and rebuilt. for me it was grounding issue. check to make sure all grounds are in same place. and if you removed the 3 bolts in the fuse tray under hood, make sure they are all tightened and not free spinning from stripping in the bottom of the fuse panel

frankwjr · 01-07-2018, 11:41 AM

if the battery has a dead cell jumpin does nuthin...

Avenging Orange · 01-07-2018, 02:17 PM

Just an off question. If it's been on the dyno and tuned, why do you need a skip shift eliminater?

MrChrisLS3 · 01-07-2018, 11:47 PM

Maybe issue with the clutch safety switch?
double check all the ignition system connections?

Ebarn1g · 01-08-2018, 06:03 PM

Hey guys,

So we ended up fixing it. Just for the sake of narrowing it down.

Battery was completely taken out of the circuit when jumping.

Had a friend come up with dealer software. For some reason the clutch switch was only partially working. One part of the system knew when it was in or out, the other was saying the clutch was always depressed. I'm guessing it needed to see some sort of activity. So we followed the "clutch relearn" procedure and then we had cranking. While I was at it I put a new battery in.

frankwjr · 01-08-2018, 07:25 PM

good job and tks fer lettin us know the outcome!

12-29-2017, 12:48 PM	#1
Ebarn1g Drives: 2010 SS LS3 Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: MA Posts: 7	2010 SS Manual No Start So I am pretty stumped on this one. Background- Car was running and driving. We had it on the dyno when the turbo failed. Trailered the car back to my garage to take the turbo out and send back for warranty. With the down time I put in the comp cams trunion upgrade, line lock, SLP skip shift elim, MSD 2 step and the adapter harness to run fogs at all times. Current Issue- Got the turbo back and buttoned everything up. Went to start and I am getting nothing. Cluster lights come on, 12v at battery (11.7v at start position). HID relay clicks and lights come on and stay on. Cluster lights go out while trying to crank besides CEL. CEL is because I don't have rear O2s installed, no other codes. Checked all grounds and they all look good. No blown fuses. Jumped out the 4 pin K61 relay and the starter spins, engine cranks. Security light doesn't stay on. Power windows work. I also unplugged the MSD just to be sure, same condition. Anyone have any ideas? I have the battery on a charger now because 12v is a bit low. Thanks

12-29-2017, 02:46 PM	#2
frankwjr Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Smithsburg, Md. Posts: 2,445	is it the original battery? with the cold temps and the higher demands placed on it could have developed a dead spot...could take it out to best tested but I vote replace with a good AGM style(1 of the very first things I did, why take the chance?)...and while your in there chase the grounds(checkin does nuthing) both in the trunk and engine compartment..good luck! __________________ 2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - *150K!* - All work by me...

01-07-2018, 11:41 AM	#6
frankwjr Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Smithsburg, Md. Posts: 2,445	if the battery has a dead cell jumpin does nuthin... __________________ 2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - *150K!* - All work by me...

01-07-2018, 02:17 PM	#7
Avenging Orange Drives: 2010 Inferno Orange 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Clermont, IN Posts: 3,297	Just an off question. If it's been on the dyno and tuned, why do you need a skip shift eliminater? __________________ 2010 Inferno Orange 2SS/RS M6 Black Leather, Sun Roof, OBX Headers, Borla touring axle back, Cold Air Inductions CAI , non synthetic fluids, BMR total bushing upgrade/1" lowering springs, DSE 32mm rear sway bar. GM fe4 shocks/struts/LCA's, AAM 3.91 diff, Vertini RFS1.8 20x9 +30. Conti ExtremeContact Sport 275/35/20. sjm autoprod ABL dash kit. Mike Norris tuned 413/419. Avenging Orange: 43 years of not buying into the Hype........and damn proud of it!! https://youtu.be/9JD9it6SmB8 https://youtu.be/xmelTlEzI34 KICKING CANCERS ASS SINCE 2015!!

01-08-2018, 07:25 PM	#10
frankwjr Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Smithsburg, Md. Posts: 2,445	good job and tks fer lettin us know the outcome! __________________ 2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - *150K!* - All work by me...

12-29-2017, 02:55 PM	#3
Ebarn1g Drives: 2010 SS LS3 Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: MA Posts: 7	Not sure if it's the original battery. I'm going to try another. Just seems odd that it was fine, now this. Car is also in a heated garage

01-02-2018, 03:36 PM	#4
Ebarn1g Drives: 2010 SS LS3 Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: MA Posts: 7	Tried with jumper cables on running vehicle. Same result. Not getting power to the coil side of the starter relay. Not sure where the issue could be.

01-07-2018, 10:42 AM	#5
Paulie_SS Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Texas Posts: 15	I have had similar problems in the past after I pulled my motor and rebuilt. for me it was grounding issue. check to make sure all grounds are in same place. and if you removed the 3 bolts in the fuse tray under hood, make sure they are all tightened and not free spinning from stripping in the bottom of the fuse panel

01-07-2018, 11:47 PM	#8
MrChrisLS3 Drives: 2018 1SS M6 Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Houston Posts: 2,617	Maybe issue with the clutch safety switch? double check all the ignition system connections?

01-08-2018, 06:03 PM	#9
Ebarn1g Drives: 2010 SS LS3 Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: MA Posts: 7	Hey guys, So we ended up fixing it. Just for the sake of narrowing it down. Battery was completely taken out of the circuit when jumping. Had a friend come up with dealer software. For some reason the clutch switch was only partially working. One part of the system knew when it was in or out, the other was saying the clutch was always depressed. I'm guessing it needed to see some sort of activity. So we followed the "clutch relearn" procedure and then we had cranking. While I was at it I put a new battery in.