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Old 02-21-2018, 12:29 PM   #1
gmcvt
 
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Valve spring/cam question

Two questions really: One, if I were to re-install the factory cam, is it possible to leave the BTR springs with the hardened pushrods as installed or is the additional pressure going to be too much for the stock cam? I'm more concerned about reliability than ultimate efficiency here. Two, if I cant do that and instead I re-installed the factory springs, do I have to use the factory type valve seals? It looks like the factory seal my affect install height on the stock springs.
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Old 02-21-2018, 12:55 PM   #2
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Depends on how high the seat pressure of the BT springs are , If they were meant for a big high lift cam or a baby cam . IMHO I would get the proper springs and right lenth pushrods for your application .
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Old 02-21-2018, 01:02 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by GONIF View Post
Depends on how high the seat pressure of the BT springs are , If they were meant for a big high lift cam or a baby cam . IMHO I would get the proper springs and right lenth pushrods for your application .
They were intended for up to .660 I believe. The pushrod length was the same as stock so that isn't an issue. And I agree that getting the stock springs is probably the best route. Do you know whether I can retain the use of the valve seals I installed when I put the BTR springs on? I'm just curious because of the factory retention method on the OE valve seals and the potential effect on install height of the factory springs if NOT using the OE valve seals.
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Old 02-21-2018, 02:22 PM   #4
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you need to use metal jacket valve seals with beehive springs, the seals you have for the dual springs will not work. not sure on the install heights

edit: i think the seals are called top hat seals
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Old 02-21-2018, 03:14 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS View Post
you need to use metal jacket valve seals with beehive springs, the seals you have for the dual springs will not work. not sure on the install heights

edit: i think the seals are called top hat seals
Thank you for the info, I assume the factory seals serve as a valve spring seat then?
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Old 02-21-2018, 03:19 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by gmcvt View Post
Thank you for the info, I assume the factory seals serve as a valve spring seat then?
no problem and that is correct, seal and seat are together with the top hat seals
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Old 02-21-2018, 04:36 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by gmcvt View Post
Two questions really: One, if I were to re-install the factory cam, is it possible to leave the BTR springs with the hardened pushrods as installed or is the additional pressure going to be too much for the stock cam? I'm more concerned about reliability than ultimate efficiency here. Two, if I cant do that and instead I re-installed the factory springs, do I have to use the factory type valve seals? It looks like the factory seal my affect install height on the stock springs.
The answer to your question is springs are fine. Pushrods are not. You will need to use the correct length hardened pushrods. Due to the added spring pressure I would stay away from the stock pushrods.
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Old 02-21-2018, 05:01 PM   #8
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Well, the hardened pushrods that are in it are 7.4, which is stock length. I was just afraid that the additional spring pressure may have an negative impact on the stock camshaft.
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Old 02-21-2018, 05:04 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by gmcvt View Post
Well, the hardened pushrods that are in it are 7.4, which is stock length. I was just afraid that the additional spring pressure may have an negative impact on the stock camshaft.
Stock pushrods are not 7.4 on the intake side I believe. Ls3 is different from previous gens.
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Old 02-21-2018, 05:14 PM   #10
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Stock pushrods are not 7.4 on the intake side I believe. Ls3 is different from previous gens.
Ok, that's my bad...I was thinking they were 7.4.
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Old 02-21-2018, 05:23 PM   #11
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Looks like 7.325. What if I just got a set of 7.325 hardened pushrods? Seems it would be much easier to do that than swap out all the valve springs/seals/hardware etc....
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Old 02-21-2018, 06:33 PM   #12
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wtf...7.385 is stock...7.4 is perfect since it adds a bit of extra preload...good for high rpm...ask me how I know.

I currently have stock springs and p/r's sittin here...you want let me know. sellin the high end stuff could help recoup....

why are you doin this if I might ask?
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Old 02-21-2018, 09:11 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by frankwjr View Post
wtf...7.385 is stock...7.4 is perfect since it adds a bit of extra preload...good for high rpm...ask me how I know.

I currently have stock springs and p/r's sittin here...you want let me know. sellin the high end stuff could help recoup....

why are you doin this if I might ask?
Good question....due to several factors, im considering switching to an automatic. And the easiest thing for me to do in my situation is to sell my current SS and find an auto car. I dont know what or when that will be just yet. I have gone back and forth on this a thousand times.

As far as the springs, first, thank you for the offer, depending on what i do, i may take you up on that. I agree with you about salvaging some money. But my thought is this: not too many people are goimg to want to give a whole lot for springs that have about 10k on them. Plus factor in the money to buy the stock stuff and the labor to switch it all out and it just seems more logical to leave the existing harware on there as long as the stock cam can handle the extra spring. Make sense?
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Last edited by gmcvt; 03-01-2018 at 12:35 PM.
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Old 02-21-2018, 09:39 PM   #14
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It's maybe 1 more hour of labor for springs when you're already in there. Not really saving much, vast majority of labor overlaps.
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