06-15-2018, 09:18 AM | #15 | |
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That’s the thing im worried about if the battery isn’t actually going to fit. I’ve been trying to find someone who has an xs battery to see which one would fit . Might just end up calling them but the d6500 was the one it recommend on their website with a few mods
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06-15-2018, 10:42 AM | #16 |
Instagram: Mr2Hard2See
Drives: 2011 2SS/ RS Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 691
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Just call them and ask for the dimensions of the battery box. Then measure your to figure that out. I notice you're from the 510 like myself. I too will be doing music upgrades and we both orange
Sorry we're kinda thread jacking but this event is going down tomorrow dm me if you guys are interested in meeting up.
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06-15-2018, 11:51 AM | #17 |
Drives: 2014 Red Hot LS3 Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 4,266
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510 here as well.
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06-15-2018, 06:14 PM | #18 |
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Camaro Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Chico, California
Posts: 187
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OooIf your battery is still good, don't waste your money on a new one until it goes bad. What you want is a high-out alternator (250-300 amps). Checkout eBay... https://m.ebay.com/itm/New-High-Perf...m=173337810712.
This along with upgrading the "Big 3" should be sufficient up to a 2000W system. There's a lot of misconceptions about batteries & capicators. Batteries are great for listening when the vehicle is not running, but are not a replacement for a proper power supply. Same with capacitors, their main function is to protect your speakers from a power surge. A capacitor cannot act like a battery, it only serves to fill in what would otherwise be very small dips in the supply voltage. I'm currently installing my system (2500W) and went with a 300A high-output alternator, Kenetik HC2400B Black series competition battery, Memphis Audio 20V 1F surge capacitor, & Kicker 1/0ga copper wire (Big 3 upgrade). |
06-15-2018, 06:15 PM | #19 |
Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Barrie, Ontario
Posts: 598
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Just like any car mods you need a good base, and you have to pay to play.I know it seems expensive to buy a $300 alt, but that's alot cheaper then when you factory alt dies and kills the battery. What amp are you running? If it is pushing 1.5-1.8k your lights must already be dimming when the bass hits. That is slowly killing your alt.
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06-15-2018, 07:34 PM | #20 | |
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Camaro Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Chico, California
Posts: 187
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Quote:
Last edited by el Wulf; 06-15-2018 at 08:49 PM. |
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06-15-2018, 08:55 PM | #21 |
Drives: 2009 ZR1 Join Date: May 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 3,205
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As if I needed a reason to spend more money....
I ordered 20' of red 1/0 welding cable, 3' of black 1/0 cable, ends, and new connectors to add to my car next weekend. New battery, new alternator, new trunk ground, and, eventually a new starter motor cable. I have to remove a turbo to get to the starter so Ill wait on the starter until there is a need to remove the passenger side turbo. If I can get the alternator listed in black, I'll add it too. Anyone know the size of the factory battery cable? If it will fit in the new battery terminals (I got the kind that will accept (1) 1/0, (1) 4g, and (2) 8g wires at the same time) I will just run factory and the new wires. I read on a couple of sites (and in the ad for the high amp alternator) to leave the factory cables and run new ones along them as well. The electricity takes the path of least resistance. |
06-15-2018, 11:13 PM | #22 | |
Drives: 2018 2SS M6 Redline Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 431
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06-15-2018, 11:17 PM | #23 | |
Drives: 2018 2SS M6 Redline Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 431
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06-16-2018, 07:18 AM | #24 | |
Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Barrie, Ontario
Posts: 598
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Even when I put a little stereo in my fiance's car (600 rms) I upgraded all the power and ground. The difference in temperature for the amp alone is unreal. Everyone should think of cable as supporting mods. Can't just throw 20 psi at a stock ls3 and think it'll never brake. Same thing with audio. Look at those massive builds online 4 or 5 alts 20 batteries 10 runs of power and ground. You need power to make power |
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06-18-2018, 08:06 AM | #25 | |
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Ok so I’m not too familiar with batteries so what do you mean the right polarity? I seen the 3400r is reverse polarity so what’s does that mean?
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06-19-2018, 12:07 AM | #26 |
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Camaro Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Chico, California
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06-19-2018, 07:52 AM | #27 |
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Drives: 2014 Summit White 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Gilbert, AZ
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He's referring to which side the positive and negative terminals are on. The OEM cabling doesn't have a lot of slack in it.
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06-20-2018, 10:12 PM | #28 |
Drives: 2009 ZR1 Join Date: May 2010
Location: KCMO
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Everything has showed up except the alternator which arrives Friday.
FYI, 1/0 welding cable is only slightly larger than the OEM battery cable that comes from the battery and runs to the engine compartment. 1/0 welding cable is also slightly larger than the ground that runs from the negative post of the battery to the chassis. 1/0 welding cable is bigger than the alternator + wire though. The factory cables are 50mm area squared and the 1/0 cable is 55mm area squared. The factory is AWG is a 1. The 1/0 cable is the next size bigger. I left the ground cable in place and since I had some black 1/0 cable, I added it to an alternator bolt and ran it to a frame ground bolt. I'm still going to add the 1/0 cable parallel to the battery positive cable and the alternator. The cable I have running to my starter is also bigger than the 1/0 welding cable so I won't mess with it. Last edited by blake-b; 06-27-2018 at 02:13 PM. Reason: Found actual measurements for cable. |
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