Dead pedal.. and not the average problem

[Pk222]

Hey guys. Having some issues with my 2010 ss camaro. I’ve been through all the problems with the pedal sticking to the floor on launching and needing to be bled on a regular basis even after installing the ideal garage master cylinder. This time is different. After about 2 hours into a drive I had the first 2” of pedal dead. Just cruising on the freeway with no pulls. Continually got worse. Got it home and bled it for it to only get worse. I removed the master and inspected but couldn’t find any problems. Not losing fluid anywhere. Bled about 50 times and still no better than about half of a normal pedal.
Any suggestions before I order a new master and slave? Even though there’s no fluid lost I’m wondering if something is bypassing somehow.

[Pk222]

I forgot to mention the ideal garage master has been in for about 2 years with no issues until now

[camguynj]

Being that you've flushed your fluid and it's still sticking and your's is a '10 it sure seems like it's the POS plastic slave support bearing starting to shred. See post9 in the following thread.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=422428

Time to upgrade to a $80 billit release bearing
http://monsterclutches.com/billet-bearing-install

http://monsterclutches.com/billet-re...earing-support

[Pk222]

I’ve heard a lot about that horrible bearing design and knew I would eventually have to tackle it. I was just hoping it would hold out until I needed a clutch so I could do everything at once. Now.. if that was going bad wouldn’t I be losing fluid? I’ve always thought of that when my clutch needed to be bled and never saw fluid leaking anywhere.
I have around 64,000 miles on it so I’m sure it’s probably due to happen anytime anyway

[Pk222]

I also saw that tick performance makes a variation that they install for you on a new slave. I read of someone having an issue installing so if this is the problem that was the rout I had planned. Any cons to the tick unit? Their slave was also $100 cheaper

[camguynj]

Can't go wrong with the TIC bearing but I believe its the same price as the Monster bearing $79 so take your pic. Don't think a shreaded release bearing necessarily leaks it just doesn't engage/release

[Pk222]

The tick bearing was the same price but the slave cylinder itself is cheaper.
I’ll start up a list for a clutch and slave with the bearing then. I was hoping to get off easy lol.
I’m planning to go twin disc just from searching around and hearing so many say how they hold up and drive compared to singles. I’m stuck between the monster lt1s and the act street strip. Similar prices and haven’t seen many bad reviews

[Pk222]

So I’ve got my monster lt1s in and it is amazing compared to stock. But.. I have more questions.
After installing trying to bleed the system I get some really strange results. No matter how much fluid I pump through I have to pump almost 50 times to get any pedal and past that it took so long I gave up. I had to drive it to work the next day with half pedal and after a 55 mile drive there no difference. Go to drive home and the pedal returns to full after a couple uses. That’s happened 3 times now. Is my master cylinder dying? Also the reservoir has been dirtier than ever especially for all new fluids and slave. My only guess is it’s particles somehow coming from the master.
Has this happened to anyone else?

[TheInfamouSS]

I changed out my slave cylinder when I did my new clutch and I didn't have any problems other than the sticky peddle when the fluid was dirty. Tick designed an upgraded adjustable master cylinder for the 5th gens that they are coming out with, and it's not much more than buying a new stock replacement. That's another option for you.

But if you replaced everything else and you are still have the same problem it seems like the missing piece to the puzzle.

[Pk222]

I’m thinking about the tick master now that it’s available. I was more curious if that was something that happened when our master cylinders go bad. I upgraded to the ideal garage master a couple years ago and I have around 30,000 miles on it. Maybe from the regular bleeding I had to do to keep the clutch working wore it out faster than it should have.

[camguynj]

Maybe try a power bleed before new master

[h018871]

Originally Posted by Pk222

So I’ve got my monster lt1s in and it is amazing compared to stock. But.. I have more questions.
After installing trying to bleed the system I get some really strange results. No matter how much fluid I pump through I have to pump almost 50 times to get any pedal and past that it took so long I gave up. I had to drive it to work the next day with half pedal and after a 55 mile drive there no difference. Go to drive home and the pedal returns to full after a couple uses. That’s happened 3 times now. Is my master cylinder dying? Also the reservoir has been dirtier than ever especially for all new fluids and slave. My only guess is it’s particles somehow coming from the master.
Has this happened to anyone else?

Yes
The master has fluid on both sides of the piston. On mine, when I got lazy and didn’t flush the fluid for a while......it got real black. I removed the master, disassembled it & it had a ton of “crud “ packed on the reservoir side of the piston. I had a new one, but I bet I could have cleaned it up and continued to use it.
If you’re going to replace it, think about the ZL1 pedal assy. It has an additional return spring and a stronger over center spring. Plus it includes a new master.

EDIT
When I did mine
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showp...&postcount=151

[Pk222]

I power bled before my clutch swap and reverse bled to the same problem. The only way my clutch has come back all the way has been to drive the car and it ends up working something out itself. I don’t understand how but my guess is the master was probably the original problem and I overlooked it as it’s already been replaced.
And as far as the zl1 clutch assembly. This is my first time hearing of the swap. I knew the springs were better but thought I had read the master itself was the same as an ss?

[h018871]

The master that came with the pedal had a different colored attachment. Not sure if really a different part number.

EDIT
The master has a very tiny port that allows fluid from the reservoir. I think that crud Restricts the flow & that is why it takes time to get the pedal back after flushing.
I have a remote reservoir
Additional discussion here
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showp...36&postcount=8
And here
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showp...55&postcount=7