IT LIVES! My Z/LE ZL1 + 1LE + 2SS = Z/LE ;o) LSA SC [COTW 2/09/15]

[hammdo]

Didn't realize how tough it is to find a shop that will press in/out bushings...

I decided to use my small 6 ton and fortunately, it worked:









Now, look @ the bushings -- you'll see the 'voids' that are filled in by the inserts:



Lot of room for 'give' in this version (2SS)...

BMR's are due in tomorrow and so are the SS 1LE versions...

-Don

[hammdo]

For the curious:

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=41

I could save $30 total over the 2SS and get the zl1 1le version and press in the bmrs!

-Don

[hammdo]

OK, finally got the BMR bushings!

Here is what those look like:









Getting it started by hand first:





Had to use a 'wheel bearing press' then, using a 27mm socket, 32 mm wrench, cranked it down (boy, that was hard!):











Now, my snap ring pliers are not 'big' enough so, getting those. After that is set, I'll be able to finally do the install!

-Don

[hammdo]

Finally got these installed today! Got the snap rings on and got everything prepped.

These Reducers worked perfectly:



Fitment was spot on!

Next, I took the 3/16" aluminum and drill and cut to size in order to take-up the 'space' difference:



So, I then made room by moving the splash shield and the brake air duct. Then I removed the current radius arms. Those things are heavy:



Here are the new arms:



Almost 5 lbs savings! If you are doing weight reduction (drag or road course), these would be a great change!

Next I put things together so I could get ready to install:



Lubed up the spherical bushing and the aluminum spacer so they would slide in and have some lube to help them slide as needed.

Now the installation -- arms are in place with the spacers, reducers -- had to use a 130 mm bolt -- 120 mm would have been better but, didn't find one.

Here they are installed:







Swaybar is too close so, since I have the Detroit Speeds, I'll adjust as needed, for now, this is what it looked like:







Now the right side:





Swaybar link re-adjusted:



Back together -- you can see the wheel is a bit more forward:



Finally together -- now alignment needs to be done!

What is nice about this -- you can easily return to stock!

I did notice my existing radius arms had worn out ball-joints -- was in need of replacement for sure...

-Don

[hammdo]

So here are the dimensions:

Gen 5 radius arm:

20.2" long, 9.2 lbs

Gen 6 radius arm:

19.7" long, 4.6 lbs

Before you go there, cannot use the front rear arms from the 6th gen as they are 3" shorter, I checked...

-Don

[hammdo]

Took it out for a test drive:

Turning is very precise! Love the more 'solid' feel. Did notice more NVH in the steering wheel -- to be expected.

No 'bangs' or 'metal to metal' hitting so, I would say that is a success! Will be looking for alignment as soon as possible. With the turn one power steering pump and the suspension upgrades, very solid feel and response...

-Don

[hammdo]

So, good news from C7 Carbon! Mold is complete and going through a test fit! Once that is done, 2 to 3 weeks and I should have a wing!

-Don

[olblue75]

So no issues with front tire contacting inner fender well? And just order a plain link since the bearing/bushing is being pushed out?

[hammdo]

None so far. Did several u-turns, right/left turns. Highway speed drives.

If you go with the BMRs, just get the SS radius rods, otherwise, the SS 1LE rods have a good bushing. Can’t say about the ZL1 1LE version. They’re cheaper but, don’t know if the bushings come out as easy.

I get my alignment on Monday so I’ll have more info. Right now, I like these!

Loosing ~10 lbs is not bad either: ;o)

-Don

[olblue75]

So no concern with weight of car on aluminum arms vs the cast iron arms? An I asked about this along time ago in the Road Racing thread.
So those round reducers go in the frame bracket and the aluminum plates go on the inside correct? An could you just flip the reducers to inside the bracket and accomplish the same affect?
I'm really interested in doing this after my cam swap and clutch upgrade.

[hammdo]

The reducers are a bit too thick to reverse. They are about 1/4" each and it was hard to hold in place and slide up the arm. Could grind them a bit I guess and epoxy then in place. I chose the way I did it so I had aluminum riding on the bushing — just like the 6th gen (aluminum cradle). The reducers only cover the bushings enough (~2" diameter bushing). I wanted the bushing to have coverage — thus the 6061 used. I cut the 6061 a bit longer so I could slide those in and support them while putting in the bolt.

You can see the 6061 coverage here:



Edit:

The reducers stick out about a 1/16" so when I tighten up the bolt, it went into the aluminum — taking up a bit more of the space. This is holding up the 6061 nicely.

Not worried about the weight — 200 lbs difference 5th vs 6th is the whole car. So, it’s 190 lbs difference now ;o). I’ve lightened up in other areas ( CF drive shaft for example).

Geoff has been racing with these for ~about a year (saw him last weekend). Still going strong. I’m good with this.

BTW, the ZL1 1LE upgrade package gm puts out is ‘off-road use only’ - even though it’s on the the Zl1 1LE — go figure...

If you think about the higher hp of the 6th gen (ZL1) and how it now uses the aluminum parts, I trust GM did quite a bit of hard testing with their forging process...

-Don

[olblue75]

Thanks Don greatly appreciate the info, I just need to start collecting parts and materials.

An the aluminum is 3/16ths thick but can you give the rest of the dimensions?

Do you think the other rod arm bearings for the front control arm would work from a 6th gen.

[hammdo]

No, and the 6th Gen arm is 3" too small — I checked. The 5th gens front rear arm is fine and saves maybe 2.5 lbs if it was aluminum. I believe unsprung weight will not change with this upgrade — but chassis weight is changed.

You need at least a 2" square of 6061 to cover the BMR spherical or the stock SS 1LE arm. I had mine just long enough to not hang below the support area of the frame.

With GM having to do so much testing of the forged arm, I feel better using it vs the Spohns (which their bushing was one of the issue).

-Don

[olblue75]

Yeah I read that the arm is too short but wonder if the Gen6 BMR bearing would fit?