Addition of Drag Radials over street tires - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Maroon 6.2L SS · 04-14-2019, 05:23 PM

rontammy0, here are my mods:

2010 Camaro SS A6

CAI
PTB
High Flow Cats
Flowmaster Outlaw Axle Backs
BMR Trailing Arms/Toe Rods
Custom Tune
275/40/20 Nitto NT55R Drag Radials

Stock Gearing/Stock Drivetrain

I love this forum, so much valuable info. Like I had mentioned earlier, this is a bucket list for me. Plan on entering some Bracket Racing tournaments at Milan Dragway in MI.

I think I'll leave my Drag Radials at 20PSI, increase my burnout a little more, but keep it the same every time. Right now I'm leaving just after the 2nd light comes on/2nd light going out while shallow staging. I wanna work on consistency more than trying to go faster etc...

Maroon 6.2L SS · 04-20-2019, 06:59 PM

I went to the track for a second time today. I actually went to a Northwestern MI track this time due to weather in SE Michigan today. Weather was almost identical to last weekend. As I mentioned before my plan was to run right around 20psi with a longer burnout on the drag radials. My results were about the same as last weekend with a couple being a little worse.

I counted in my head to 5-6 seconds on the burnout but the car acted funny around 5+ seconds shortly after it shifted into second. It's almost like the stock 3.27 gears couldn't keep up at that point just after it shifted into second. As far as the tire pressure goes I was right around 20psi give or take .5psi which seems to be the ticket for my setup.

I was a little confused with the times being about the same as last weekend with a few being worse. One thing I can tell you is that there was a 15-20mph cross wind and I had 1/8th less gas in the tank. Everything else the same. Maybe my burnout was a hair too long and the wind had an effect?

Pro Stock John · 04-22-2019, 04:32 PM

-I do my burnouts in manual mode, because it shifted too fast through the gears than I like.

-I would stall it up more than 600 rpms, I used to as much as it would take.

-headers, cold air, tune, stock tires I went best of 12.7 on a 1.92... But with 20" 555Rs I went 12.37@112 1.85.

Maroon 6.2L SS · 04-22-2019, 06:42 PM

Thanks Pro Stock John. Didn't even think about trying in manual mode.

Chris49066SS · 04-22-2019, 08:48 PM

Start in 1st, stomp on it and shift (the shift comes very quickly) and tapshift into 2nd and give it plenty of rpm in 2nd. (Project Heavy Chevy style) thats how I do my burnouts and it works well enough. See sig pic

Pro Stock John · 04-23-2019, 10:35 AM

Yeah just need to remember to put the shifter back into regular performance mode, I've made a few passes over the years starting off in 3rd gear.

I like to roll around the water, back in, do a partial spin, pull to edge of the water box, then burnout. I think it's easier on the stock diff...

If you are using HPT, my reccollection is that stock shift points might be at 5800? I think we put those at 6000.

Could also do rod mod intake swap too if you just want light bolt ons.

zlathim · 04-23-2019, 01:17 PM

A word of advice. Mark your tires at the start of the day to see if they are slipping on the wheels. I am having mine dismounted today so I can remove the powder coat and try to keep them from spinning. This is an early picture. They had rotated almost 100* after 14 hits at the drag strip:

Netraa · 04-23-2019, 01:51 PM

Before you compare time slips from one track to another on different days, you need to get the corrected DA (density altitude) and correct both sets of times back to sea level. This will help correct for changes in humidity, temperature, altitude.

Maroon 6.2L SS · 04-23-2019, 03:49 PM

Pro Stock John, I read somewhere on the net that it's not a good idea to do a quick spin in the water box to coat the full tire because you may spray excess water on the inside fender wells that could drop back down on your tires just after you burnout? What are your thoughts??? Or anyone's thoughts for that matter???

Chris49066SS · 04-23-2019, 05:28 PM

I pull around the water box, back in and then pull forward and do my burnout. I don't do any spinning in the water box, so I don't fling excess water up onto the fenders. John posted a sticky in this forum awhile back that is pretty informative on drag racing. It addresses the burnout along with a bunch of other related topics.

Sticky by John:

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=317537

04-22-2019, 04:32 PM	#17
Pro Stock John Writer Drives: 2010 SS / 1967 Camaro Join Date: May 2009 Location: Chicago, IL Posts: 7,221	-I do my burnouts in manual mode, because it shifted too fast through the gears than I like. -I would stall it up more than 600 rpms, I used to as much as it would take. -headers, cold air, tune, stock tires I went best of 12.7 on a 1.92... But with 20" 555Rs I went 12.37@112 1.85. __________________ PROJECT HEAVY CHEVY Camaro Now: Mods for the Masses Part I \| Part II 13.15@106 1.95 \| 100% Stock 12.37@112 1.85 \| + Kooks Headers/Cats + 20" 555R + CAI + BW TB + UDP + Tune 12.06@113 1.70 \| + CD 3200 + 18" NT05R + RCR Intake + NE OTR + GPI Tune 11.84@115 1.59 \| + 3.91s + Race Star 17x7 Fronts 10.90@125 1.47 \| + GPI VVT Cam + BW Ported Heads + CD 3800

04-22-2019, 08:48 PM	#19
Chris49066SS Drives: 2010 SS L99 Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Missouri Posts: 1,634	Start in 1st, stomp on it and shift (the shift comes very quickly) and tapshift into 2nd and give it plenty of rpm in 2nd. (Project Heavy Chevy style) thats how I do my burnouts and it works well enough. See sig pic __________________ Previous PB:11.079 @ 122.99mph.. New setup time: TBD The 11.079 pass: https://youtu.be/pz27Zq54t_E Build thread - www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=555371

04-23-2019, 10:35 AM	#20
Pro Stock John Writer Drives: 2010 SS / 1967 Camaro Join Date: May 2009 Location: Chicago, IL Posts: 7,221	Yeah just need to remember to put the shifter back into regular performance mode, I've made a few passes over the years starting off in 3rd gear. I like to roll around the water, back in, do a partial spin, pull to edge of the water box, then burnout. I think it's easier on the stock diff... If you are using HPT, my reccollection is that stock shift points might be at 5800? I think we put those at 6000. Could also do rod mod intake swap too if you just want light bolt ons. __________________ PROJECT HEAVY CHEVY Camaro Now: Mods for the Masses Part I \| Part II 13.15@106 1.95 \| 100% Stock 12.37@112 1.85 \| + Kooks Headers/Cats + 20" 555R + CAI + BW TB + UDP + Tune 12.06@113 1.70 \| + CD 3200 + 18" NT05R + RCR Intake + NE OTR + GPI Tune 11.84@115 1.59 \| + 3.91s + Race Star 17x7 Fronts 10.90@125 1.47 \| + GPI VVT Cam + BW Ported Heads + CD 3800

04-23-2019, 01:17 PM	#21
zlathim Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Idaho Posts: 726	A word of advice. Mark your tires at the start of the day to see if they are slipping on the wheels. I am having mine dismounted today so I can remove the powder coat and try to keep them from spinning. This is an early picture. They had rotated almost 100* after 14 hits at the drag strip: __________________ GPI SS2; EE E2 catch can; SP 1 7/8" LT Headers w/ hfc; FM AT 3" cat-back; CAI Cold Air Intake; AEM Wideband Tuned by GPI McCleod RXT; MGW flat stick; Ram Clutch slave cylinder & hydraulic adjuster BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings Hotchkis sub-frame brace Stop Tech Z-23 brakes 4.10 gears, Eaton Truetrac, LPW diff cover Best 1/4 mile 12.073 @ 115.68 mph 3,300 ft DA

04-23-2019, 05:28 PM	#24
Chris49066SS Drives: 2010 SS L99 Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Missouri Posts: 1,634	I pull around the water box, back in and then pull forward and do my burnout. I don't do any spinning in the water box, so I don't fling excess water up onto the fenders. John posted a sticky in this forum awhile back that is pretty informative on drag racing. It addresses the burnout along with a bunch of other related topics. Sticky by John: https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=317537 __________________ Previous PB:11.079 @ 122.99mph.. New setup time: TBD The 11.079 pass: https://youtu.be/pz27Zq54t_E Build thread - www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=555371

04-14-2019, 05:23 PM	#15
Maroon 6.2L SS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS A6 Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Brighton, MI Posts: 190	rontammy0, here are my mods: 2010 Camaro SS A6 CAI PTB High Flow Cats Flowmaster Outlaw Axle Backs BMR Trailing Arms/Toe Rods Custom Tune 275/40/20 Nitto NT55R Drag Radials Stock Gearing/Stock Drivetrain I love this forum, so much valuable info. Like I had mentioned earlier, this is a bucket list for me. Plan on entering some Bracket Racing tournaments at Milan Dragway in MI. I think I'll leave my Drag Radials at 20PSI, increase my burnout a little more, but keep it the same every time. Right now I'm leaving just after the 2nd light comes on/2nd light going out while shallow staging. I wanna work on consistency more than trying to go faster etc...

04-20-2019, 06:59 PM	#16
Maroon 6.2L SS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS A6 Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Brighton, MI Posts: 190	I went to the track for a second time today. I actually went to a Northwestern MI track this time due to weather in SE Michigan today. Weather was almost identical to last weekend. As I mentioned before my plan was to run right around 20psi with a longer burnout on the drag radials. My results were about the same as last weekend with a couple being a little worse. I counted in my head to 5-6 seconds on the burnout but the car acted funny around 5+ seconds shortly after it shifted into second. It's almost like the stock 3.27 gears couldn't keep up at that point just after it shifted into second. As far as the tire pressure goes I was right around 20psi give or take .5psi which seems to be the ticket for my setup. I was a little confused with the times being about the same as last weekend with a few being worse. One thing I can tell you is that there was a 15-20mph cross wind and I had 1/8th less gas in the tank. Everything else the same. Maybe my burnout was a hair too long and the wind had an effect?

04-22-2019, 06:42 PM	#18
Maroon 6.2L SS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS A6 Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Brighton, MI Posts: 190	Thanks Pro Stock John. Didn't even think about trying in manual mode.

04-23-2019, 01:51 PM	#22
Netraa Drives: 2014 2ss/rs Join Date: May 2012 Location: New Braunfels, Texas Posts: 293	Before you compare time slips from one track to another on different days, you need to get the corrected DA (density altitude) and correct both sets of times back to sea level. This will help correct for changes in humidity, temperature, altitude.

04-23-2019, 03:49 PM	#23
Maroon 6.2L SS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS A6 Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Brighton, MI Posts: 190	Pro Stock John, I read somewhere on the net that it's not a good idea to do a quick spin in the water box to coat the full tire because you may spray excess water on the inside fender wells that could drop back down on your tires just after you burnout? What are your thoughts??? Or anyone's thoughts for that matter???