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Old 08-26-2019, 08:52 PM   #1
carjockey71@gmail.com
 
Drives: 2012 Chevrolet Camaro SS Convt
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SERVICE STABLETRAK DIC - Need some help

Well the last time I saw this I had to rebuild my top end, I think this is just a sensors but the information on the internet seems to be polluted as every time a GM car or truck acts up and can manage diagnose a check engine OBD alert it seems to make these 3 lights and issues appear for EVERYTHING

2012 Chevrolet,Camaro SS Convertible 6 Spd 67,674

Service Stabilitrack System light appears on DIC, followed by the ’traction control, service stabitrack, traction control on/off (3 common indicator lights that appear for almost every problem in that car) the 3 lights appearing on the bottom left hand corner of the tachometer gauge and will not go away unless the car sits for a few hours and then it situation starts right up again as soon as wheel rotation (it seems) is indicated

THIS CONDITION WILL APPEAR ONLY AFTER CAR IS PUT INTO GEAR OR BRAKE IS RELEASED AND BEGINS TO DRIVE OR COAST, I.E. WHEEL ROTATION HAS BEGUN, DOESNT MATTER IF FOWARD OR BACKWARD, CLUTCH CAN STILL BE DEPRESSED OR CAR CAN STILL BE NEUTRAL - only needs to roll out 8 inches not even completing a full rotation (shifting car into 1st or reverse doesn’t matter, car will stay with DIC WARNING OFF as long as car does not move.)

I have read to much information about this condition, that it could be the front end, ball joint, etc which I’m not sure about that but it DOES NOT ENGAGE ‘CHECK ENGINE LIGHT’ EVER, no codes are stored in the OBD System either

Other information - NONE of the tire pressure sensor work and haven’t for several months

I am inclined to believe it’s a sensor - I believe that there are 2 are the rear wheels and ABS SENSORS, etc, over looking then car I did not find anything wires disconnected at or by the wheel, I did check some of the fuses but found nothing

What about cleaning up the sensors or the wheel speed sensors (are they the same thing) is there a way of doing that

Anyone recommend a good scanner that will do the ABS codes / wheel spin codes that won’t cost a fortune?

Appreciate some guidance, not sure what to think appreciate any help

Thanks

Last edited by carjockey71@gmail.com; 08-26-2019 at 09:47 PM. Reason: Adding question
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Old 08-27-2019, 09:12 AM   #2
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That stupid SERVICE STABLETRAK light comes on for many things. When I blew up my engine it came on. My car was still running with a thrown rod clicking around. At first I was hoping it was a spark plug that went out. No such luck. The SERVICE STABLETRAK came on to warn me of a broken engine. I am not saying you have the same problem as I did, but I've seen in this forum that the light comes on for many reasons. I tried to OBD II diagnose it myself but didn't get much more than generic codes.
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Old 08-27-2019, 10:11 AM   #3
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sounds like an issue with the Wheel speed. Make sure you have the correct size tires, or they are very close to the same diameter. If they are off too much it will see too large a difference in wheel speeds. Go to anywhere a part store and have them pull the codes and go from there, likely a wheel speed sensor.
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Old 08-27-2019, 11:33 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenhornet2 View Post
sounds like an issue with the Wheel speed. Make sure you have the correct size tires, or they are very close to the same diameter. If they are off too much it will see too large a difference in wheel speeds. Go to anywhere a part store and have them pull the codes and go from there, likely a wheel speed sensor.
Correct!

I believe anything of difference of 6% in tire heights will cause these issues based on findings regarding tire/wheel combos.
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Old 08-27-2019, 11:36 AM   #5
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How old is your battery? I've been told an old battery with inconsistent voltage can trigger the codes. Also heard about the wheel speed sensors. Got the codes on my Camaro when I had the Vittesse Throttle controller on. I removed it, bought a new battery, and no more codes.
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Old 08-28-2019, 10:22 AM   #6
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I have gotten that light when I hit a bump on the freeway, causing the wheel to slip enough for the sensors to catch it, when the wheel bounces after the bump. It hasn't gone off for any other reason since.
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Old 08-28-2019, 08:43 PM   #7
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Well of course there hurricane coming for Southern Florida so driving this far with no traction control is a nightmare-

I check and rechecked all the connects, I have had the same tire one it for over a year, now got in the car and I don’t need the wheels to move I can induce this by turning the wheel - even a little bit, I think it says to do with the tread wear in the front tires, so I will fix that (because it needs to) and then have someone scan it, I have a basic scanner if it hasn’t goosed out any check engine codes.

Last September I hit a lot of destroyed a rim and blew the front left tire, since I had ‘road harzard ‘ I got the tire for almost nothing but now they are very unequal in diameter they about 5% on the front left and 50 % on the front right, so I am concerns ( it it has t been scanned) after reading a bunch of post here that the YAW AND THE STEERING WHEEL ANGLE SENSOR might be affected as there is a more then a .5 differential in tire height

Left it GM to push 3 fault lights for EVERYTHING, I have to admit it looks good sittin in the driveway but I’m getting tired of the issues - let me know if you guys have any thoughts l, it seems lots of people have issues like this and they never post the end result with what fixed it, hopefully it’s just out of whack do to tire height, but must be in the front because I don’t even have to move the steering wheel more then a couple of inches in either direction before the magic lights appear, I need the tires anyways - fingers crossed . .
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Old 08-29-2019, 08:38 AM   #8
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My first check would the steering wheel angle sensor.
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Old 08-29-2019, 02:38 PM   #9
canadian ss
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Stabilitrac comes on as a safe mode. It wont let you use your car to its fullest because there is a fault in the system and its intended to prevent you from doing more damage.

Since you said it came on AFTER hitting a bump, you probably ruined the wheel hub. It could be a damaged wire on the chassis somewhere or an internal speed sensor problem. Either of which you cant read through the engine option of a hand held code reader. You need to access the Chassis option to see which wheel is giving you the issue. Pulling the code from there will point you to the wheel.
You could also jack the car up and wiggle the wheels up and down-side to side ans check for play in the wheel. If there is play, you found your problem. You could also use a multimeter and spin each wheel checking for continuity and voltage etc. but at your experience level its easier to pull a code first.

A wheel bearing code usually starts with a C. An example would be C0035.
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