Low oil rebuild begins

[G8One2]

Op is gonna get it back together, realize it runs better than it ever did and change his mind about selling it.

[flyinglow57]

Originally Posted by zz430camaro

why are you putting in main studs and arp rod bolts if you are selling it?

Checking clearances can you do this with torquing gm bolts then use them again on final assembly? I figured checking bearing clearance is easier with studs

[flyinglow57]

Originally Posted by G8One2

Op is gonna get it back together, realize it runs better than it ever did and change his mind about selling it.

I hope this is the problem

[Ashen L99]

Originally Posted by flyinglow57

I hope this is the problem

You know, you are doing a solid rebuild, and like you said, any money you throw at it won’t make the resell value go up. With that in mind, I’m of the opinion that you should just keep it. you know what you have! once it’s back together, like previously stated, you’re going to think “hot damn, why did I think I wanted to sell it?!!!”

[G8One2]

Originally Posted by flyinglow57

Checking clearances can you do this with torquing gm bolts then use them again on final assembly? I figured checking bearing clearance is easier with studs

Use the old bolts to verify and check your clearances. Final assemble with the new bolts.

[flyinglow57]

Originally Posted by G8One2

Use the old bolts to verify and check your clearances. Final assemble with the new bolts.

I was wondering this. The only question i have is

The stock bolts are torque to yield. Do i just tq them to what arp would be tq to or do i go to 10lbs the 70* past that. Or what ever the spec is


Thank you sooo much I appreciate the help. This will save me actap load of money

[G8One2]

Use the stock spec and stock bolts. You can yeild those 3 times generally before scrapping them. It was yeiled once from the factory, so you should be able to torque them up a few more times. But don't use studs or arp bolts on final reassembly. They will have a different clamp load than your stock bolts. You should be using whatever fasteners were used to size the bearings and set clearances. If you had the machine shop set your clearances with the torque to yeild bolts, than that's what you should be using to verify your clearances and to do final assembly with. You should not be using studs or arp bolts unless the machine shop used them to set your clearances.

[G8One2]

Basically, if you want to use arp fasteners to put it back together with ( which I suggest you do) have the machine shop set your bearing clearances with the arp fasteners and not the stock hardware.

[christianchevell]

I am still Alive..LOL Preload when you cannot get the exact absolute right length of pushrod means you turn the thing to the range, you change anything you need to adjust things, you want less noise for the engine you run less preload you want more RPM you run tighter, you do short travel, shave heads etc;; it all matters and yes its done in distance, you can not just buy the exact length of pushrod for every mod...…. The rocker is a fulcrum its 1.7 on the heads you tighten it to increase preload loosen to decrease....

People on here used to report they did so many turns and some were way off and over tight and trashed things that's why I even bother..... And because you don't break in a engine right with a roller it may break down way down the road..... not like a flat tappet that was bread and butter forever...… and same with it being a roller that it will move the roller on the cam way over preloaded to hell and back where as on a flat tappet the damn engine would be seized!!!!!!!!! A couple simple facts. From a old Motorhead..... And makers don't do pushrods in .001 lengths increments.....at least not for cheap..... And a new bare block cost me $1400.....

[flyinglow57]

So update: the block and crank are at the machine shop. They magnafluxed the crank. All is good but the main journals need ground down. Im sending him my main studs and main caps. He is going to torque down the caps and bearings then he is going to grind the crank to the specs needed. Hopefully done in a next week

[G8One2]

Originally Posted by flyinglow57

So update: the block and crank are at the machine shop. They magnafluxed the crank. All is good but the main journals need ground down. Im sending him my main studs and main caps. He is going to torque down the caps and bearings then he is going to grind the crank to the specs needed. Hopefully done in a next week

Sounds like a good plan. If you plan on using arp fasteners for the rods,it would be wise to have them resize them with the arp bolts.

[christianchevell]

Shame would have been perfect to stroke it now...LOL

[flyinglow57]

Engine is still machine shop. Mains got line honed and just waiting for main bearings and cam bearings to come in.
Got everything in except the cam. But now i got the new high performance gm ls7 lifters and was wondering do the lifters need to be oriented one way or another. There is an oil weep hole in one side does it face forward or towards back

[G8One2]

Doesn't matter, if you look down the lifter bore, you will see an oil galley that goes through the block. The hole in the lifters sit in this oil galley, orientation doesnt matter, it will get oil.