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Old 10-13-2019, 01:18 PM   #1
flyinglow57
 
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P0336 code

I did a total rebuild of the engine got it back together and started just fine good oil pressure. Now when i took it for a quick test drive it has a miss and stumbles as I accelerate. Blinking check engine light came one with p0336 code which is

P0336 is a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) for "Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance".


I replaced the crank sensor and get the exact same thing.
I cleared the code and turned the key off then back on and read codes and the p0336 was back in there again without even starting the car
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Last edited by flyinglow57; 10-13-2019 at 01:32 PM.
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Old 10-14-2019, 01:04 PM   #2
InFiD3ViL


 
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Are you certain you got every single ground wire connected?
Didn't pinch the sensor wire during reinstall?
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Old 10-14-2019, 01:39 PM   #3
dino2012ls3
 
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Check you volts going to it
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Old 10-14-2019, 02:42 PM   #4
flyinglow57
 
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I cant find a clear wire diagram of a 2010 camaro crank sensor. The colors are yellow/blk stripe. Green. Then purple/ white stripe. What should be what. Then when i get up into the engine bay further up there ate twi purple with white stripes. Wtf chevy.


What gauge is the wire for the crank. Ill just run 3 new wires. From crank to near the computer.
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blk 2ss 6spd with sunroof.
intake,tsp cam,full exhaust,pcmforless tune,trailing arms,toe rods. hopeing for 11.9 because my g/f said she will take the cam and the suspension back if not.
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Old 10-14-2019, 02:59 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL View Post
Are you certain you got every single ground wire connected?
Didn't pinch the sensor wire during reinstall?
Got a single one back of pass head a group of 6 or so on pass head middle. Big main ground front of Pass head. Then one on front of drivers block and one on back of drivers head
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Old 10-15-2019, 12:14 PM   #6
Witt51
 
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I believe there is one on the back of the passenger side head.

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Old 10-16-2019, 10:22 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyinglow57 View Post
Got a single one back of pass head a group of 6 or so on pass head middle. Big main ground front of Pass head. Then one on front of drivers block and one on back of drivers head
Quote:
Originally Posted by Witt51 View Post
I believe there is one on the back of the passenger side head.

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Reading comprehension
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Old 10-16-2019, 10:40 AM   #8
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Ok

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Old 10-21-2019, 06:19 PM   #9
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Spent a little time today. I have it narrowed down to
5 volts on one position constant
Ground in one position
And the sensor a position had 2.5 volts. I clipped the wire 3” from the ecu and still have 2.5 volts coming from the ecu to the yellow/blk wire that goes to crank sensor signal wire


Why would the wire have 2.5 volts out of the ecu When its the signal wire from the crank. Shouldnt it be 0 until the crank sensor reads the reluctor wheel?
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blk 2ss 6spd with sunroof.
intake,tsp cam,full exhaust,pcmforless tune,trailing arms,toe rods. hopeing for 11.9 because my g/f said she will take the cam and the suspension back if not.
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Old 10-21-2019, 07:11 PM   #10
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The ECU outputs a 5v reference signal to the cranks sensor. 2.5v is a good reading if he was back probing it while connected, but doesnt mean its what the ECM is looking for either. The crank sensor is just a magnet that creates a hall effect as the nubs on the trigger wheel pass by it. The crank sensor should have a resistance reading of less than 5 Ohms. If its open, or the resistance is higher than 5 Ohms, the sensor is likely defective. The circuit going TO the sensor, should also be checked for excessive resistance, from an unplugged ECM connector. Anything more than 5 ohms is considered excessive, and if its close to 5 Ohms I'd still attempt to improve or repair the circuit.

Last edited by G8One2; 10-21-2019 at 07:12 PM. Reason: Re-wording
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Old 10-21-2019, 07:16 PM   #11
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Also, Ive seen many times, people shove paper clips and whatever else inside the connectors to test circuits. If the paperclip is too large, it will spread the female pin to where it wont make a good contact when you plug it back in. It may still connect, but barely touching the male pin on the other connector, which causes a high resistance value, and tends to throw circuit low, or circuit high faults.
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Old 10-21-2019, 07:20 PM   #12
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Oh, and a bent, or otherwise damaged trigger wheel can also throw range performance faults. Not saying that's whats going on, but for sure a possibility since the engine was just rebuilt. All it takes is for someone to drop it on the floor, or pry on it, mishandle it in some way to damage it.
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Old 10-21-2019, 07:30 PM   #13
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Crank sensor is totally disconnected. Key on. 5v goin to reference 2.5v going to signal both from ecu


Im not back probing anything. The 2.5 i was wondering if i was getting a bad connection through the crank sensor plug so i snipped the signal wire 3” from the ecu stripped it and it has 2.5v
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blk 2ss 6spd with sunroof.
intake,tsp cam,full exhaust,pcmforless tune,trailing arms,toe rods. hopeing for 11.9 because my g/f said she will take the cam and the suspension back if not.
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Old 10-21-2019, 07:47 PM   #14
G8One2
 
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Going through the sensor, that would be an acceptable reading. I would suspect something wrong with the trigger wheel, only because I've seen the same fault with trigger wheels on camshafts that are broke. But I would be doing exactly what your doing, checking the circuits first to make sure it's 100% not that.
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