HELP!!!!

[FasNuf]

The V1 kit is good but the Premium is only $35 more and has better steel where the bearings ride. Here's a bit from his site about the V1 vs. V2

The all new Trunnion Kit V2 features a Trunnion with pre-installed inner race bearings. The V1 kits have stood up to an enormous amount of abuse, but we decided to upgrade them to a pressed inner race comprised of 52100 Heat Treated Bearing Steel, over the more commonly used 8620 Carburized Steel found in our V1 kits and many OEM applications. Additionally, these feature a self oiling axle with priority feeding to the Trunnion itself.

I believe the V1 was also sold under the Summit brand for a little less. Both in my opinion are better than the brass bushing for a street application. I think the bushing style is probably stronger in a race application because of the extra surface area but thoses engine have a more rigorous maintence and inspection schedule after races so faults would be caught easily.

[My14camarorapdu]

Originally Posted by FasNuf

The V1 kit is good but the Premium is only $35 more and has better steel where the bearings ride. Here's a bit from his site about the V1 vs. V2

The all new Trunnion Kit V2 features a Trunnion with pre-installed inner race bearings. The V1 kits have stood up to an enormous amount of abuse, but we decided to upgrade them to a pressed inner race comprised of 52100 Heat Treated Bearing Steel, over the more commonly used 8620 Carburized Steel found in our V1 kits and many OEM applications. Additionally, these feature a self oiling axle with priority feeding to the Trunnion itself.

I believe the V1 was also sold under the Summit brand for a little less. Both in my opinion are better than the brass bushing for a street application. I think the bushing style is probably stronger in a race application because of the extra surface area but thoses engine have a more rigorous maintence and inspection schedule after races so faults would be caught easily.

So even for my application you recommended me running the bearings over bushings? Like I’m only at around 530hp. I do rip on my car pretty hard from time to time on the street. Every now and then I goto the track. But reading the mods you have I guess it’s safe to say to use the V2 for me.

[FasNuf]

Yes, Id'e totally trust the V2 for strength and durability. The instructions never said to take the grease out or to work it out under oil like I did in the video, but I wanted the oil from the engine to be able to get inside the bearing without having to fight the grease that's packed inside. I'm pretty sure heat from the engine and mechanical means would've got it out anyways when it melted. My tuner said that he's only seen the stock rocker end caps fail a couple of times in his career. That was a risk I didn't want. For $150, it's cheap insurance. The risk with the V2 is not assembling it correctly or not getting a snap ring seated.

[Greenhornet2]

I have the CHE trunion kit. Looks solid i haven't installed them yet though. Should be this weekend

[My14camarorapdu]

Originally Posted by FasNuf

Yes, Id'e totally trust the V2 for strength and durability. The instructions never said to take the grease out or to work it out under oil like I did in the video, but I wanted the oil from the engine to be able to get inside the bearing without having to fight the grease that's packed inside. I'm pretty sure heat from the engine and mechanical means would've got it out anyways when it melted. My tuner said that he's only seen the stock rocker end caps fail a couple of times in his career. That was a risk I didn't want. For $150, it's cheap insurance. The risk with the V2 is not assembling it correctly or not getting a snap ring seated.

Yea I’d have to assume and believe the heat from the engine as well as them moving would melt that grease and cause oil to get it. When I do oil pumps I typically open them up and put grease in it so when I start it it gets oil pressure easily. I’ve seen the stock rockers fail a lot as well as sometimes I’ve seen the stock spring fail and break as well. I think I’m going to try the V2. Can’t hurt. I just want to pull my hair out because I’ve talked to so many diff people that are very knowledgeable in the LS world and everyone keeps recommending different sets. However a lot have said go with V2. So I’ll give them a shot. Thanks again. I’ll update soon. Waiting on this tax money lol

[Greenhornet2]

There's more than one way to skin a cat. I'd just stay away from comp cams stuff. Haven't heard of issues with others.

[My14camarorapdu]

Originally Posted by FasNuf

Yes, Id'e totally trust the V2 for strength and durability. The instructions never said to take the grease out or to work it out under oil like I did in the video, but I wanted the oil from the engine to be able to get inside the bearing without having to fight the grease that's packed inside. I'm pretty sure heat from the engine and mechanical means would've got it out anyways when it melted. My tuner said that he's only seen the stock rocker end caps fail a couple of times in his career. That was a risk I didn't want. For $150, it's cheap insurance. The risk with the V2 is not assembling it correctly or not getting a snap ring seated.

Well as much as I was hoping and praying for it to be one of the rockers sadly it is in fact a lifter and it ate the cam. So I pull the head on passenger side as I thought it was I. That side because cylinder #4 the exhaust valve was kinda smashed. Apparently I floated the valve. So since I had that head off I start pulling the lifters out thinking it was on the passenger side. NOPE. Just my like I’d have 2 separate issues. So ended up having a bad valve and then a bad lifter on cyl#5 and it chewed the cam up.

[FasNuf]

float a valve with those springs? Maybe your lifter got pumped up? Not sure there, maybe someone else has ideas.
Do you know what preload you were running?

Well at least you know now and can get it on the way to being fixed. Sorry for your luck

[My14camarorapdu]

Originally Posted by FasNuf

float a valve with those springs? Maybe your lifter got pumped up? Not sure there, maybe someone else has ideas.
Do you know what preload you were running?

Well at least you know now and can get it on the way to being fixed. Sorry for your luck

Honestly I have no clue what the preloads are for the springs. I’m questions now if I was even sold the right stuff for when I did the cam. I mean I know you should always double check everything but I’ve never had this issue before and I’ve done a lot of cam swaps on LS. I dunno I spoke to a guy that runs a LS shop down by me and he said I could have over revved causing the valve to float. All I know is I’ll be down a while now. Just sucks couldn’t have came at a worse time. If I knew how to post a picture on here I’d show you.

[christianchevell]

You did the cam yourself.... The preload/lash should have been in the golden range being .045 to .060 after zero. Just a couple thoughts as I don't come here often...not like I used too and I am old.....

One thing common to fail its the throw out bearing support a common mod that all used to do is the billet bearing support by monster to not have a melted slave down the road.....as the stock ones plastic. Not knowing or spending the time to know all your specifics....most cams should have the lifters replaces with a new cam if theres is significant miles on the old cam meaning tracking does occur and …

I use a 8620 core with Driven racing oil to make sure things are broken in with BR30 and stiff and I don't change grades the systems meant for 5w30.. Sorry if your trunnion upgrade went bad sounds like you had a good high volume pump... one thing can affect what happens with another with valve train as you know. Dickey Scoggins sells a better than stock CNC heads porting for cheaper and is one of the best deals out there for money$$$$ Hope your cam bearings are OK but may be shot and of course with a PITA can be changed... As always everything costs money, I got my short block from a place called SAG performance online custom engine supply a guy named jerry in angola Indiana... I realize crap happens, it sucks when it happens to you, and not everything you can do will always set things right. But money is what matters to every build, Good Luck! The preload is for the pressure on the lobes of the cam via the rollers on the lifters I mentioned for stock to not make too much noise or be overtight...

I have been on here since about the beginning of this sight, at first guys were doing anything they could to hot rod, and blamed cams for not being hard enough etc etc, then they made 8620 cam cores , etc some did lots of reading and basically had followers, some spent money and had disasters here and there, some went well for long times and then went south. Those with no problems basically are not heard from much...….. and those disgraced just sell and go away..... So heres a story form a old timer for you to think about...

There was a fellow on here who did a big write up on installing your own cam, he included lots of pics and people thought it was so wonderful...… He limped his car to get it tuned after the install....and after the install he asked repeatedly about setting his preload right and getting the length of the pushrods right on other posts..

I believe his name was Robert Wright...… I have not heard from him in like five years + on here, so always research everything yourself.... I tried to teach him some about things, one thing many screwed up was not even using math, setting preload is done using a math formula once you reach zero lash on the rockers with them being presoaked in oil.

Every time you tighten is times 1.7 the rockers ratio as its a fulcrum and many did not fathom this and overtighten the hell out of their valve trains and down the road they had noisy engines and eventually failed lifters and cams as they were way over lashed..

You see insidiously roller lifters don't fail right away they do it way thousands of miles down the road and the typewriter sound of the ls3 made people really wonder about valvetrain noise...….. thus knowing the thread pitch of the bolts/studs that the rockers are on is crucial to how far a simple turn of the wrench moves the rocker in relation to actual movement of the Preload beyond zero.... Guys were turning it 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turn when they should have went 3/4 a turn.....

Just some thoughts, many thought you can just go 22 ft lbs etc..... but hey your going with aftermarket this and that and things have a way of changing what stock this or that should be set too.... Hell I had to research ls1 tech forums to find answers and talk to ls gurus to come to the "Golden Zone" and theres of course lots of confusing wrong info out there and people on here did not know who to believe or where to find this and it just happens to coincide with what engines being broken down were set to factory....

and with factory lifters you want factory preload and general idea was over 30k on the stock cam and lifters it should have new lifters for a new cam..heck some stock cams even crapped out pitting and falling apart on varied stuff because crap happens...

SO if you were around at the time you would have heard stuff like Chinas at fault...really their ovens heating the cams had a cold spot for the cores that comp cams turned..... and some got crappy cores as they all a lot come from China who use what quality steel...…. SO there is some thoughts, and just a example of the boring kind of stuff I read over time..here a search for .047 thread pitch,( which if my memory does not fail me was the amount of inches in movement of one turn on the rocker bolt?..lol )…. yields this ls2 article on head compatability…….. https://www.ls2.com/forums/showthrea...uide-What-Fits

And yes I used a pro to assemble my engine because I have only a carport, no great amount of time and one time use tools, and only did SBC/BBC all the time and its a different deal now with new engines...… And failure is not a option and was not when I swapped engines. Once again Good Luck...….. hope your bearings look nice.... I use Driven racing br30 and then ls30 for oil....I used to preach about them and piss people off, they developed break in oil for Nascar engines for Joe Gibbs you know that loser..... And People like oh..Texas speed Include their oil with a new engine for a warranty...as do well anywhere that's good or makes your parts...I order it form my Baxter auto supply, they have a website that's about articles and tech info …

boring stuff like new oil standards that come out and how roller cams need a break in also..It only made about oh a couple hundred percent survivability for Nascar engines that cost like a hundred grand not going to crap on the engine dyno. Just the recommendations for their oil includes the name of your oil pump maker should catch a eye..let alone the cam makers and all the performance shops who sell their stuff like oh GPI, Tick etc...… Really one of the best advice I can give and for years got crap over it...……..

Then everyone saw all the performance shops go to oil form driven recommended...why even fast and loud had to use it for a Hertz/Shelby mustang project after they ate a cam in a two part episode having to re-rebuild a engine.... Engines now are more oil specific than ever and only getting worse and have less ZDDP in them than ever...…..

https://www.drivenracingoil.com/ So hate on me if you will, I may have just saved a engine or two...……… And sorry if my "From's" turn out to be "forms" as my hands work only so well < I had my hands blown up in the Infantry and my left thumb sewed back on....good enough to be a carpenter for the State here in Corrections anyway..have a good Saturday. And you may notice this post took time, like I just ramble...……… Sometimes it takes time. And looking up the info for correct is not always so easy, and then finding wrong info does not help...…….

[FasNuf]

When I did my Brian Tooley cam, I called them twice and also spoke to Wongs Performance. Both those places wanted my lifter preload between .075" and .100", it worked out that I went .080 there about. A looser preload just might be a little more noisy. Not sure but I believe stock is like .055" but I cant remember. I did buy the matching spring kit from Brian at the time but still had to measure for pushrod length because of the new cam. I have a video on my channel on how I did that.

[christianchevell]

That would be tight lifter preload as a ls7 is .070 and then theres just so much you can take up in the internals of the lifter and actually less preload equals less noise, if your going for higher than normal revs though I know Tommy would set it to take it if he thinks your going high on revs because its less chance for valve float ...etc My preload is noisy and I went with what Tommy wanted it because I am not the Corvette guru and hes actually older than me...LOL Now its the setting of the preload where you times the 1.7 times the thread pitch and that's how far it turns to make the preload..other than that your just wrong if you set it just straight turns based on thread pitch...In other words you should have been about 1 turn max.... 1.7 X .047= .0799

I think that's it.... For most lifers you go with what the manufacturer says, and the ls3/7 lifter the ls3 engine has less preload with a lower Rev limit and the ls7 more preload with a 7k limit that's my understanding a little more for a little higher limit and never any plunger interference...and then there is of course aftermarket like Jonson or Morrel lifters etc etc with their different requirements...

Anyway..LOL some day I will do more, want the GPI max kit for my daily, maybe buy a used zl1 or a new vette… Dreams never stop just like bills....and the daughters Neuroscience degree happens June......LOL THANK GOD...….. And hopefully I get the MAX kit and Get Tommy to do it before He retires......

[FasNuf]

Sorry if I made a misunderstanding everybody. I am running stock LSA lifters.
I set my preload using a push rod length tool from Comp. and the advice from BTR. If I used Tommy's advice, I would've been approx .080" and .100". He wasn't building my engine so he really didn't have the intimate knowledge of my base circle measurements. My exhause and intake pushrods are now different lengths.
Sorry OP, back to the topic.

[Fignewton]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

That's just him man. It is how he always talks. Do like most everyone else and ignore him.

Yep, you nailed it. I've learned to just ignore him when he comments on a post.