rear cradle bushing experience

[gunchamp]

So I just tackled my rear cradle bushings in my 15 ss. Went with polys. I have pics and info in my build thread. Just wanted to take this chance to say how bad these sucked to do and I really have no interest in doing these again lol. Thats all

[Level300]

I’m tackling this soon. Any advice or tips that would help me do this easier? I’ve read up on most if not all posts that dealt with this mod.

[KillboyPowerhead]

Originally Posted by Level300

I’m tackling this soon. Any advice or tips that would help me do this easier? I’ve read up on most if not all posts that dealt with this mod.

Poly bushings or solid? I believe the install is the same except with the poly I think you need to reuse the factory washers on the bottoms of the bushings. Good luck getting those off

I've done these bushings twice; here are some of my tips off the top of my noodle:

Removal

• Get two jacks, one to support the cradle via the differential and the other to push up on the cradle to help remove the bushings.
• With the car on jack stands (stands go in front of the rear wheels, beside the scissor jack spots) place one jack under the diff with a bit of pressure.
• Loosen all four bushing bolts (24mm) and thread three in a few turns to support the subframe and remove one (start with one of the smaller front ones to get a bit of confidence).
• Place a 1" short socket (or similar) above the bushing with no bolt and use the other jack to push up on the frame near the bushing.
• To get more room you can remove the exhaust near the tips and mufflers (WD-40 works great), lowering the exhaust until it touches the bracket in the middle of the car.
• Heat the subframe evenly around the bushing (I used MAPP as mentioned above), and after a minute or two you'll start to see the bushing slide out.
• Keep applying pressure with the second jack to help push out the bushing using the weight of the car while continuing to heat, until it falls out (if you're lucky it'll pop out; if not it'll slide out slowly and painfully).
• While the frame is hot, use a long extension knife and scrape the inside of the bushing void and get it as clean as possible.
• For the bigger rear bushings you may need a 2x4 or something to reach the subframe with the jack - or at least that's what I did.

Install

• Before removing any bushings throw the new bushings in the freezer, taking out one set (of four) at a time.
• Put the top piece in first and sit it as evenly as possible, then use the jack to push the subframe up so the weight of the car pushes it in (or you'll get lucky and it'll slide right in). If the bushing doesn't slide in evenly stop, lower, and try again (can take a few tries).
• To get the bottom piece in you can try a rubber hammer, or try the jack with a 2x4 to evenly push it in.

I think that's pretty much it.

[SSammy]

Originally Posted by KillboyPowerhead

Poly bushings or solid? I believe the install is the same except with the poly I think you need to reuse the factory washers on the bottoms of the bushings. Good luck getting those off

I've done these bushings twice; here are some of my tips off the top of my noodle:

Removal

• Get two jacks, one to support the cradle via the differential and the other to push up on the cradle to help remove the bushings.
• With the car on jack stands (stands go in front of the rear wheels, beside the scissor jack spots) place one jack under the diff with a bit of pressure.
• Loosen all four bushing bolts (24mm) and thread three in a few turns to support the subframe and remove one (start with one of the smaller front ones to get a bit of confidence).
• Place a 1" short socket (or similar) above the bushing with no bolt and use the other jack to push up on the frame near the bushing.
• To get more room you can remove the exhaust near the tips and mufflers (WD-40 works great), lowering the exhaust until it touches the bracket in the middle of the car.
• Heat the subframe evenly around the bushing (I used MAPP as mentioned above), and after a minute or two you'll start to see the bushing slide out.
• Keep applying pressure with the second jack to help push out the bushing using the weight of the car while continuing to heat, until it falls out (if you're lucky it'll pop out; if not it'll slide out slowly and painfully).
• While the frame is hot, use a long extension knife and scrape the inside of the bushing void and get it as clean as possible.
• For the bigger rear bushings you may need a 2x4 or something to reach the subframe with the jack - or at least that's what I did.

Install

• Before removing any bushings throw the new bushings in the freezer, taking out one set (of four) at a time.
• Put the top piece in first and sit it as evenly as possible, then use the jack to push the subframe up so the weight of the car pushes it in (or you'll get lucky and it'll slide right in). If the bushing doesn't slide in evenly stop, lower, and try again (can take a few tries).
• To get the bottom piece in you can try a rubber hammer, or try the jack with a 2x4 to evenly push it in.

I think that's pretty much it.

I appreciate the step by step. Thanks for taking the time to include the install.

[KillboyPowerhead]

Forgot to mention: when reinstalling, the bolts are torqued to 165 ft/lbs - some guides suggest less but this is the torque spec for such a size of bolt, and is also what the Pegasus guys suggested doing. I guess technically you should be replacing the bolts as they're torque-to-yield bolts, but, meh, my rear end hasn't fallen off yet. Just squirt some blue loc-tite on the threads and give 'er.

[Chris49066SS]

Heres my write up on it. Pictures, video, tools needed, all that stuff. It was an easy install.

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=540578

[Level300]

Originally Posted by KillboyPowerhead

Poly bushings or solid? I believe the install is the same except with the poly I think you need to reuse the factory washers on the bottoms of the bushings. Good luck getting those off

I've done these bushings twice; here are some of my tips off the top of my noodle:

Removal

• Get two jacks, one to support the cradle via the differential and the other to push up on the cradle to help remove the bushings.
• With the car on jack stands (stands go in front of the rear wheels, beside the scissor jack spots) place one jack under the diff with a bit of pressure.
• Loosen all four bushing bolts (24mm) and thread three in a few turns to support the subframe and remove one (start with one of the smaller front ones to get a bit of confidence).
• Place a 1" short socket (or similar) above the bushing with no bolt and use the other jack to push up on the frame near the bushing.
• To get more room you can remove the exhaust near the tips and mufflers (WD-40 works great), lowering the exhaust until it touches the bracket in the middle of the car.
• Heat the subframe evenly around the bushing (I used MAPP as mentioned above), and after a minute or two you'll start to see the bushing slide out.
• Keep applying pressure with the second jack to help push out the bushing using the weight of the car while continuing to heat, until it falls out (if you're lucky it'll pop out; if not it'll slide out slowly and painfully).
• While the frame is hot, use a long extension knife and scrape the inside of the bushing void and get it as clean as possible.
• For the bigger rear bushings you may need a 2x4 or something to reach the subframe with the jack - or at least that's what I did.

Install

• Before removing any bushings throw the new bushings in the freezer, taking out one set (of four) at a time.
• Put the top piece in first and sit it as evenly as possible, then use the jack to push the subframe up so the weight of the car pushes it in (or you'll get lucky and it'll slide right in). If the bushing doesn't slide in evenly stop, lower, and try again (can take a few tries).
• To get the bottom piece in you can try a rubber hammer, or try the jack with a 2x4 to evenly push it in.

I think that's pretty much it.

Thank you so much for posting your tips. This is very helpful.

[Level300]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

Heres my write up on it. Pictures, video, tools needed, all that stuff. It was an easy install.

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=540578

LOL, I know your post almost by heart. I'm going to thank you in advance for documenting this mod. Chris49066ss thanks for taking the time to document this. It's people like you that makes my car so much more enjoyable and better!

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by Level300

LOL, I know your post almost by heart. I'm going to thank you in advance for documenting this mod. Chris49066ss thanks for taking the time to document this. It's people like you that makes my car so much more enjoyable and better!

Absolutely, glad I could help!

[gunchamp]

Originally Posted by Level300

I’m tackling this soon. Any advice or tips that would help me do this easier? I’ve read up on most if not all posts that dealt with this mod.

Ive got some pics and directions in my gpi build thread if you want to take a look. These guys have done a good job here though with the steps. Polys will require the use of the factory bottom cup/washer. Mine came off fairly easy, but did require a large pry bar. Also a bit of heat. I pulled the bolts and used a propane torch right in the center. About 30 seconds and the washer popped off. Hope this helps. If you have any questions, please dont hesitate to ask

[gunchamp]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

Heres my write up on it. Pictures, video, tools needed, all that stuff. It was an easy install.

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=540578

Nice write up and glad it went well. I would say this was far from easy though lol. I have the tools, garage and the capability and it seriously kicked my ass! Was over a 10 hour install honestly. Just a royal bitch